All my body bolts came out intact, but I still had one rusted out frame mount pad I had to weld a repair washer on. The most common mount to have problems is the passenger side #2 because the HVAC drains rain water right on that mount.
I had the same issue and it turned out all were shot. I even had to buy washers to weld in where the mounts set up front. I went with polyurethane too. It is still not on the road so I do not know how well I will like the set up??Agree with ed1948: Do it once - do it right.
Replaced mine with urethane mounts from Prothane and it's so much better.
Here's what my factory rubber mounts looked like on a mildly rusty frame:
Probably for durability in long-term use on the road. Even cinched down tight, acceleration, deceleration, and cornering loads would seem likely to cause some movement of the steel body and steel chassis that sandwich the aluminum leading to wearing the aluminum. In a competition-only vehicle, I'd think they'd be likely to get replaced fairly often (I'd guess once a season.) Poly bushing are more likely to be a change 'em once and forget about them proposition.Why would one not want to use the solid bushings instead of rubber or poly?
that is my plan at least, I think the price is comparable. The solid bushings, assuming no body rust issues, would make the whole body/chassis more rigid.
https://trzmotorsports.com/wp2/?product=g-body-solid-body-mount-bushings
as for NVH... see also unibody cars.
leading to wearing the aluminum. In a competition-only vehicle, I'd think they'd be likely to get replaced fairly often
All speculation on my part. I have no experience using the aluminum mounts for DD/street use and don't know anyone who has. Will be interested to follow your experience with them over the long term. Please post updates from time to time. Thanks.Perhaps there is movement, but I doubt they wear near that fast or that track cars replace them regularly, if at all.
There is also these to add
http://scandc.com/new/node/982
One of my front bushings is shot. I'll probably go the solid route all around and may include the SC&C parts, just in case.
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