Brake Booster Dissasembly

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Understood. I found out the reason it is difficult to do. On a manual MC the hole in the back of the plunger is about an inch deep. The manual push rod fits deep inside that hole and is held in place securely. The MC for a power booster is very shallow. That makes it easy to fall out with no booster behind it. The push rod you want is like the one that came on my '68 Firebird with manual drum brakes. It is very long, adjustable, and has a clevis at the pedal end to attach to the pedal arm. The clevis is about two inches long and threaded where the rod screws in. There is a lock nut on the rod to secure it. That gives you your adjust-ability. My reason was that when I switched to power disc brakes, even though the braking was much better, I felt the pedal was traveling too far to the floor. I wanted to adjust the pedal higher like I could with the manual brakes. My mistake was using the power disc MC which was much larger but had the shallow hole in the plunger. I needed the disc MC for a non power set up- if that even exists.
 
https://www.manualbrakes.com/g-body.html

Push rod assembly at the bottom of this linked page, but it will still need something to retain the push rod. The push rod is designed to be used with most master cylinders, but it is not designed to fit inside the retention cup of a push rod piston.

What master cylinder did you plan to use?
 
https://www.manualbrakes.com/g-body.html

Push rod assembly at the bottom of this linked page, but it will still need something to retain the push rod. The push rod is designed to be used with most master cylinders, but it is not designed to fit inside the retention cup of a push rod piston.

What master cylinder did you plan to use?

I saw that push rod assemply but I'm not spending close to $100 C for a pushrod
 
Understood. I found out the reason it is difficult to do. On a manual MC the hole in the back of the plunger is about an inch deep. The manual push rod fits deep inside that hole and is held in place securely. The MC for a power booster is very shallow. That makes it easy to fall out with no booster behind it. The push rod you want is like the one that came on my '68 Firebird with manual drum brakes. It is very long, adjustable, and has a clevis at the pedal end to attach to the pedal arm. The clevis is about two inches long and threaded where the rod screws in. There is a lock nut on the rod to secure it. That gives you your adjust-ability. My reason was that when I switched to power disc brakes, even though the braking was much better, I felt the pedal was traveling too far to the floor. I wanted to adjust the pedal higher like I could with the manual brakes. My mistake was using the power disc MC which was much larger but had the shallow hole in the plunger. I needed the disc MC for a non power set up- if that even exists.

we used the Chrysler manual master on a circle track car with a skinny 16 yo kid driving it. He could lock up the brakes with no problem. I never liked the feel of power brakes and I have driven vehicles with manual brakes that I enjoy and never have have any issues with braking. I have antilock brakes in the Jeep and I despise them. Mark, I hope I didn't ruin your day mentioning a Jeep....🙂
 
That rod in the link is very similar to the '68 Firebird rod I mentioned. That is, if that piece to the right of the rod is a clevis. Steve remember when power brakes were new? I had a '68 LeSabre with power drums. Power was overkill. Touch them wrong and your head went thru the windshield. Drum brakes are self actuating which means the rotation of the drum helps the shoes grab. But as much as I said I was happy with my '68 Firebird 4 wheel drums- 4 wheel disc on my '77 TA was phenomenal.
 
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I haven’t ever taken one apart but if it’s anything like a brake chamber on a tractor/trailer I wouldn’t mess with it
 
I got it apart and the spring was nothing to be worried about but they dure didn't want the push rod ever to fall out
 
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