The ground on the switch is only for the indicator. The feed and load sides are 12, unless you have a double post double throw
HELP Brake switch wiring- 4L80E TCC
- Thread starter Injectedcutty
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Finally getting around to this. And realizing that 1984 switch won't work. Should I Just order the 1996 Camaro switch and go from there or is there something better to use?
This is for brake lights activation and torque converter lockup using Terminator X max.
This is for brake lights activation and torque converter lockup using Terminator X max.
Splice into the brake switch wire that is not 12v+(hot) all of the time. My car is an 84 with two switches, one for cruise that I treated like an empty beer can, and the second for the brake lights. I spliced into that and IIRC, it was the white wire. The orange wire was hot all the time, again IIRC. But not challenging at all to confirm. And if you booger it up, then it will not lock the TC (hehe).
Tony, follow Jim's lead since the switch should be the same as his. In the event you need the camaro one, don't buy one. Let me know and I'll send you the one I got but am not using since my factory switch works fine.
Thanks. I actually thought about doing this. And I (or Holley) made it more confusing than it should be. Their directions say must be connected to 12v+ so ??? I've read so many guys say make it 12v then zero when brake applied or vice versa. Confusion reigns the day these days.
It's easy to get confused when setting these up....until you do it and see it working correctly.
1st, Terminator X/X Mxx has several inputs and outputs that aren't assignable or changeable without a crap ton of effort. So use them. One of them is the brake input for the 4L__E transmissions. It is a 12v+ switched input that comes in the harness ready to be wired in. They have others in the engine harness that are inputs that are obvious to use, but very similar in function, oil pressure input, IAT, CLT, TPS, Fuel Pressure, etc. All of these are inputs that are preassigned. Of all of those, the brake switch and the fuel pressure are extra's that don't have to be used. The fuel pressure is the best example, Holley knew most everyone wants a fuel pressure sensor, but the LS engine that their kit that is made for doesn't have a factory fuel pressure sensor. Same goes for some of the outputs, i.e. fan control. Fortunately the outputs are more easily reassigned.
2nd, Holley made the 4 unused (available) inputs and 4 unused outputs completely changeable in terms of how they are triggered (inputs) or what they perform (outputs). The inputs can be triggered from 12v+ or 12V-, 5 Volt reference, frequency (Hz) or Canbus. To change how these are triggered is one of Holley's best features - it's a click of the mouse or a drag and drop. It's stupid silly how it all works. This a giant step ahead of the Megasquirt stuff I have.
I use an Excel spreadsheet to keep track of my inputs and outputs. I attached a screenshot of my Holley Term X Max setup. It's very basic I have one of these for all of our EFI setups. It's extremely handy to have this stuff saved for reference later when you want to make a change or try to remember what you did to get something to function.
Bottom line, ask questions as to what you need help with (as you are doing here). And don't over think anything. It's only as intimidating as you let it be lol. If you follow the installation manual, then you'll see that the brake switch input is 12v+ switched input.
Don't you have a build thread on your car?
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Yes Jim I have a build thread. I have everything wired correctly for terminator x max already except for the one wire to unlock the converter
Engine runs great. First attempt at starting and she fired up immediately
Engine runs great. First attempt at starting and she fired up immediately
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