If you want brighter brake lights use a 7528 bulb. It's designed for BMW but it will fit in a 1157 socket. The 7528 rear light is almost as bright as the 1157 brake light and the 7528 brake light is noticeably a lot brighter than the 1157.
Brighter Brake Lights
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I had replaced my tail lights with the 7528 bulb last summer and forgot about that until someone started a thread about putting an extra bulb in the hosing of an Olds making it brighter. The led lights are nice but too many cars has them now so they are nothing new.
Heat isn't an issue with the brighter bulbs, is it? I sort of remember a rumor, not sure if it was an urban legend, from LONG ago saying that a much brighter bulb than what's called for will generate enough heat to start melting (slightly) some of the plastics... be it the socket, opening and surrounding area, lens, or whatever.
Any truth to that?
Also, another question - LEDs have notably lower power draw, don't they? Though I swear I heard something about heat even with them, which doesn't make sense to me, but all I have is 3rd and 4th hand information.
Any truth to that?
Also, another question - LEDs have notably lower power draw, don't they? Though I swear I heard something about heat even with them, which doesn't make sense to me, but all I have is 3rd and 4th hand information.
Quick search found this. Truth or not???? But it does seem to work.
What's the Replacement Bulb for the Brake Light ?
by Hombre Sin Nombre
21/11/01
Correct Bulb Type:
The Correct bulb is listed in the Owners Manual. The bulbs are #7528 or a #7225 available at any parts store.
Note that it has been said that the bike does not use #1157s: This is what was said. "While they are very similar apparently the 1157s don't quite fit or work. The correct bulb can be found in any auto parts store. The stem will be silver-coloured instead of brass. Sylvania bulbs come in black and green packages and the number is stamped in the stem. If you use an 1157 it will work for many years and when it goes out the base will be corroded into the socket, you will break the glass trying to get it out, and end up having to buy a new brake light instead of just a bulb."
However physical dimensions (but not electrical specs) of the #1157, #2057, and (BMW OEM) #7528 are IDENTICAL and INTERCHANGEABLE. Perhaps somebody bought a cheap generic discount bulb, had it corrode or break off. The stock taillight assembly is vented to the air, and the plain brass lamps are more subject to corrosion than the plated bulbs.
In the USA you can buy cheap generic bulbs with that do not meet ECE specs. ECE specs require bulbs to be rated at 12 volts DC, and to have plated bases and larger contacts.
US spec bulbs often have plain brass bases, and can be rated at operational voltages of 12.8-14 volts DC.
The #1157, #2057 and #2357 bulbs are common types often available in the USA as generic discount bulbs made to meet the lower US specs. The #7528 and #7225 are a newer Euro style bulb, made in Europe, not commonly used in the USA, and therefore only available made to higher ECE specs. (Most US industrial electronic supply catalogs do not even list the #7528 or #7225 bulbs.)
For a few cents more, higher quality #1157, #2057, and #2357 ECE spec bulbs are also available. Other than that, the main difference between the #1157/#2057 and the #7528/#7225 is that the latter bulbs have a brighter brakelight (35 MSCD/candlepower, as opposed to 32 for the #1157/#2057), but less longevity (150 hours as opposed to 1200 hours).
SO, FINALLY, lacking the OEM #7528, your best substitute for the OEM #7528 would be the #2357 built to ECE specs, but it's likely no brighter than the #7528, as the #2357 is spec'd at higher voltage, but it would have a much longer life expectancy than the #7528. Note that the #7225 has a much dimmer running light - just 1.2 candlepower.
ALL the bulbs below are Ba15d (dual contact/dual filament) INDEX BASE (axially offset pins, one direction only). External dimensions are identical. Physical differences vary only in terms of construction materials. The bulbs below differ only in terms of the lamp filaments/wattage/output/expected life, as noted:
BULB# # Voltage Amperage/Filament MSCD Hours/Watts ECE Ratings
1157 12.8/14 2.10/0.59 32/3 1200/5000
2057 12.8/14 2.10/0.48 32/2 1200/5000
2357 12.8/14 2.23/0.59 40/3 400/5000
7528 12.0/12 1.75/0.42 35/3 150/1500 21/5W
7225 12.0/12 1.75/0.33 35/1.2 150/1500 21/4W
MSCD is "Mean Spherical Candela", or "candlepower".
(edited) chart source: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/lights/signal_bulbs/
What's the Replacement Bulb for the Brake Light ?
by Hombre Sin Nombre
21/11/01
Correct Bulb Type:
The Correct bulb is listed in the Owners Manual. The bulbs are #7528 or a #7225 available at any parts store.
Note that it has been said that the bike does not use #1157s: This is what was said. "While they are very similar apparently the 1157s don't quite fit or work. The correct bulb can be found in any auto parts store. The stem will be silver-coloured instead of brass. Sylvania bulbs come in black and green packages and the number is stamped in the stem. If you use an 1157 it will work for many years and when it goes out the base will be corroded into the socket, you will break the glass trying to get it out, and end up having to buy a new brake light instead of just a bulb."
However physical dimensions (but not electrical specs) of the #1157, #2057, and (BMW OEM) #7528 are IDENTICAL and INTERCHANGEABLE. Perhaps somebody bought a cheap generic discount bulb, had it corrode or break off. The stock taillight assembly is vented to the air, and the plain brass lamps are more subject to corrosion than the plated bulbs.
In the USA you can buy cheap generic bulbs with that do not meet ECE specs. ECE specs require bulbs to be rated at 12 volts DC, and to have plated bases and larger contacts.
US spec bulbs often have plain brass bases, and can be rated at operational voltages of 12.8-14 volts DC.
The #1157, #2057 and #2357 bulbs are common types often available in the USA as generic discount bulbs made to meet the lower US specs. The #7528 and #7225 are a newer Euro style bulb, made in Europe, not commonly used in the USA, and therefore only available made to higher ECE specs. (Most US industrial electronic supply catalogs do not even list the #7528 or #7225 bulbs.)
For a few cents more, higher quality #1157, #2057, and #2357 ECE spec bulbs are also available. Other than that, the main difference between the #1157/#2057 and the #7528/#7225 is that the latter bulbs have a brighter brakelight (35 MSCD/candlepower, as opposed to 32 for the #1157/#2057), but less longevity (150 hours as opposed to 1200 hours).
SO, FINALLY, lacking the OEM #7528, your best substitute for the OEM #7528 would be the #2357 built to ECE specs, but it's likely no brighter than the #7528, as the #2357 is spec'd at higher voltage, but it would have a much longer life expectancy than the #7528. Note that the #7225 has a much dimmer running light - just 1.2 candlepower.
ALL the bulbs below are Ba15d (dual contact/dual filament) INDEX BASE (axially offset pins, one direction only). External dimensions are identical. Physical differences vary only in terms of construction materials. The bulbs below differ only in terms of the lamp filaments/wattage/output/expected life, as noted:
BULB# # Voltage Amperage/Filament MSCD Hours/Watts ECE Ratings
1157 12.8/14 2.10/0.59 32/3 1200/5000
2057 12.8/14 2.10/0.48 32/2 1200/5000
2357 12.8/14 2.23/0.59 40/3 400/5000
7528 12.0/12 1.75/0.42 35/3 150/1500 21/5W
7225 12.0/12 1.75/0.33 35/1.2 150/1500 21/4W
MSCD is "Mean Spherical Candela", or "candlepower".
(edited) chart source: http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/lights/signal_bulbs/
King_V said:
I've had then my GP for half of last summer and they never melted anything. As for led's they don't emit any heat and that is a problem in the winter as lights gets covered with snow and the led will not melt the snow. It is especially problematic if the front turn signals are led, the get covered with snow just from driving with other cars kicking up snow, then there's no way to see any turn signals when when they are oncoming.
Chlorin8ed said:
I can only tell you what I see when using them. I installed the 7528 on one side and they were noticeably brighter than the 1157 in the other side. As far as being hard to get they were on the rack at a local parts store. Also the 7528 and 1157 are not identical as the pins are slightly different making the 7528 and little hard to get them installed. As for them burning out I don't know how long they are going to last since they have not burnt out. And when they do even if it's when i get the car back on the road in the spring I'll replace them with the 7528.
walmart even sells them and they are 4.97 for 2 so I didn't invest alot of time researching them, they are brighter and that's all I need to know.
Were you comparing a new bulb vs. old or new vs. new?
Just curious as an old bulb is going to be dimmer in comparison to a new one. It's one of the reasons all those ccrappy silversstar headlight bulbs can claim they provide "x-percentage" of increased light output over stock bulbs. They don't tell you they were comparing them to old bulbs.
Just curious as an old bulb is going to be dimmer in comparison to a new one. It's one of the reasons all those ccrappy silversstar headlight bulbs can claim they provide "x-percentage" of increased light output over stock bulbs. They don't tell you they were comparing them to old bulbs.
That's a good question, the bulbs I had in my car were less than a year old. One blew and the store didn't have the 1157 I was looking for. I know the guys at the store and one suggested the 7528 cause he had heard they are supposed to fit and are brighter. These bulbs are definitely brighter.
Good info. Thanks very much for sharing. I was wondering if there was something out there that is brighter than a standard bulb.
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