buffing paint
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Check Wal-Mart, meguiars has a kit thats all in one...could probably do a google search and find more information
Eastwood sells the Dewalt variable speed buffer I have, mine is 15 years old with ten of that being daily use in a body/restoration shop, they also have the Norton Liquid Ice, nice stuff same compound just change the pads as you go. Although not a good system for professional use its a good set up to get started, reasonably priced and user friendly.
JUst keep in mind, its not the buffer thats the most important. buy a cheap one if occasional use. However I have followed these level of importance when choosing the materials, they are the most important
1. Choose a foam pad if you are new, choose a quality pad. Its not the buffers fault, or the compound in most cases. The pad does the work
A. I got great results from the Blue foam finishing pad from 3M
B. I cut using a black wool presta pad
2. Compound. I have used Presta, 3M, Evercoat Body Magic, Mirka Polar Star, Cumberland, Transtar products. All pretty much yield the same results.
A. I cut using Evercoat Triple Cut Compound
B. I finish using Presta Chroma Polish
C. Wax using Meguiars 26 (by hand) No switl marks at all even on black
3. Backing pad, I use a presta. It is flexible. Use a flexible backing pad, if not you run a higher risk of burn through.
Keep the pads clean, dont use water to clean a wool pad. Use a cleaning tool regularly when cutting, The cutting process creates alot of trash that contaminates the finish and can make swirls. Foam pads can instantly cleaned with water, dried, spun, and buff again. As mentioned before I get rid of the trash in the paint with the wool cutting, constantly clean it, then polish with the blue.
You will get good with practice. Here is my Black GN that I just finished painting. Notice in one pic the grain in the paint before finishing, then look at the flash in the second pic after I was done buffing.
1. Choose a foam pad if you are new, choose a quality pad. Its not the buffers fault, or the compound in most cases. The pad does the work
A. I got great results from the Blue foam finishing pad from 3M
B. I cut using a black wool presta pad
2. Compound. I have used Presta, 3M, Evercoat Body Magic, Mirka Polar Star, Cumberland, Transtar products. All pretty much yield the same results.
A. I cut using Evercoat Triple Cut Compound
B. I finish using Presta Chroma Polish
C. Wax using Meguiars 26 (by hand) No switl marks at all even on black
3. Backing pad, I use a presta. It is flexible. Use a flexible backing pad, if not you run a higher risk of burn through.
Keep the pads clean, dont use water to clean a wool pad. Use a cleaning tool regularly when cutting, The cutting process creates alot of trash that contaminates the finish and can make swirls. Foam pads can instantly cleaned with water, dried, spun, and buff again. As mentioned before I get rid of the trash in the paint with the wool cutting, constantly clean it, then polish with the blue.
You will get good with practice. Here is my Black GN that I just finished painting. Notice in one pic the grain in the paint before finishing, then look at the flash in the second pic after I was done buffing.
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most importantly is how clean the surface is, you can have the best tools and materials at your disposal but if there is dirt anywhere its gonna make life harder. I personally suggest staying away from the low end buffers. They are nothing more than a angle grinder and for the inexperienced it will chew some paint off. The reason being there is no "slow-start" or ramp up to speed. My makita was a really good investment for this reason. Orbital buffers IMO are a waste of time and money and really are only good for applying top wax.
I wash the car completely first and then use a spray wax with a clay bar as the first step. This will remove any bits of dirt that can get trapped in the buff pads and prevent additional swirl scratches. If needed i'll used 3000 wet dry sandpaper sparingly.
I've used compounds anywhere from 3m, turtle wax, aridex, formula 113, you name it. IMO some work better than others, all a matter of preference and how much you like spending. I like using formula 113 or 3m products. I use a wool buff pad for medium to heavy oxidation with a medium to heavy cut compound ( i found turtle wax heavy rubbing compound to work well here). Then I step up to a light compound with a medium foam pad. After that it gets a 3M glaze coat to remove fine swirls with a soft /white foam buff pad. This is a tedious and frustrating step especially if your car is black and a real pain with a white car if you sanded the clear coat a little bit because its hard to see. I finalize it with meguiars Tech wax 2 or formula 113 by hand then a bit of spray wax over the top. This leaves the surface super clean and slick/"soft" to the touch. I typically only need to do this once a year , the rest of the time just gets spray wax.
The one thing I stress the most is keeping the work area clean and your tools clean, this will net better results. I get cheap plastic sheeting to keep the whole job clean and work one panel at a time, this prevents more work cleaning up if any material is slung around by the buffer (be careful of wax's on the vinyl tops they can stain!) and buffing trash that ends up everywhere. Slinging the chord over you shoulder prevent you from dragging it into your work. Work one panel at a time. I use microfiber towels, higher the thread count the better, and rip the manufacturer tags off of them (can cause scratches). Switch towels for each polishing step, and make sure it does not get dirty or fall on the floor.
I wash the car completely first and then use a spray wax with a clay bar as the first step. This will remove any bits of dirt that can get trapped in the buff pads and prevent additional swirl scratches. If needed i'll used 3000 wet dry sandpaper sparingly.
I've used compounds anywhere from 3m, turtle wax, aridex, formula 113, you name it. IMO some work better than others, all a matter of preference and how much you like spending. I like using formula 113 or 3m products. I use a wool buff pad for medium to heavy oxidation with a medium to heavy cut compound ( i found turtle wax heavy rubbing compound to work well here). Then I step up to a light compound with a medium foam pad. After that it gets a 3M glaze coat to remove fine swirls with a soft /white foam buff pad. This is a tedious and frustrating step especially if your car is black and a real pain with a white car if you sanded the clear coat a little bit because its hard to see. I finalize it with meguiars Tech wax 2 or formula 113 by hand then a bit of spray wax over the top. This leaves the surface super clean and slick/"soft" to the touch. I typically only need to do this once a year , the rest of the time just gets spray wax.
The one thing I stress the most is keeping the work area clean and your tools clean, this will net better results. I get cheap plastic sheeting to keep the whole job clean and work one panel at a time, this prevents more work cleaning up if any material is slung around by the buffer (be careful of wax's on the vinyl tops they can stain!) and buffing trash that ends up everywhere. Slinging the chord over you shoulder prevent you from dragging it into your work. Work one panel at a time. I use microfiber towels, higher the thread count the better, and rip the manufacturer tags off of them (can cause scratches). Switch towels for each polishing step, and make sure it does not get dirty or fall on the floor.
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