If turning the wheels is affecting the idle thats a symptom of a loose belt... that would probably have nothing to do w/ the carb. Look for a loose pulley / tensioner and see if you can get it tighter. When it comes to putting a crate engine in it really depends if you are going to do / able to do the work yourself. If you end up at the shop it could cost anywhere upwards of $2,500 installed. It's really not complicated to do but the whole 'taking the car to the shop' game is a whole different ballgame that requires estimates planning and research b/c you could come up with a wide variety of answers on what this will / should cost lol
Buick 231 bolt-ons
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ps if the belt is not loose you may also need a power steering pump which is a very cheap easy to replace part. If it is starting to go out there would be a moaning sound as turning wheels left/right while parked w the car on? After replacing the power steering pump replace the fuses/relays associated with it for better results and idle should be unaffected when 'turning wheels' left/right the headlights should Not dim or you have electrical issues
I used to do my own mods on my G5, but I got a little too ambitious with a supercharger installation and made a mess of it, so I'd be more comfortable leaving the wrenching to a professional and feeling confident that the finished product won't fall to pieces when I get on it. These cars seem to be simpler in design and build than modern fuel injected machines so that may play into my favor.
The power steering only whines when cranked to the stops. It's still maintaining pressure at all times. The motor acts up more when cold, it would hesitate when applying throttle and sometimes stall, more often when turning the wheel. Two years ago I sand blasted the plugs and attempted to adjusted the timing via twisting the distributor, but it did nothing to improve on this problem. I'll inspect the belt/tensioner tomorrow and see what gives.
The power steering only whines when cranked to the stops. It's still maintaining pressure at all times. The motor acts up more when cold, it would hesitate when applying throttle and sometimes stall, more often when turning the wheel. Two years ago I sand blasted the plugs and attempted to adjusted the timing via twisting the distributor, but it did nothing to improve on this problem. I'll inspect the belt/tensioner tomorrow and see what gives.
I'm not sure if this is relevant, but when first starting a cold engine, I'd get an amber light that reads CHOKE on the cluster. Giving it a shot or two of gas turns it off. I sometimes have to apply a little throttle when cranking it as it struggles to turn over.
That really sucks the 3.8 doesn't have a 'twist' style distributor like a 302 ford. It sounds like you need to do just do a little more reading from something like a Haynes manual related to the 3.8 v6 or something like that w/ all the stock settings before you keep messing w/ the engine. If it's not broke don't 'fix' it... The v6 is just a cheap means of transportation it is better left close to stock. Wait til you can afford that crate engine to get into modifying stuff or you will be disappointed in how unrewarding it is to mess with the v6...
I never claimed to be an expert, the fact is I'm borderline clueless. I'm no mechanic by any means, but I do want to learn what I can. If I've said anything that might've offended you I'm sorry.
I'll be storing the car at the end of the month for winter. Those few months off may help me decide what I want to do and how I want to do it. Thanks for the suggestions.
I'll be storing the car at the end of the month for winter. Those few months off may help me decide what I want to do and how I want to do it. Thanks for the suggestions.
no way I am no expert on anything here either. We welcome new members 😳 You should expect all older cars w/ the carb to behave the way you described having to pump the gas on the 1st start of the day at least twice to get a clean start is normal. By the 3rd start you should not have to pump the gas any times to get the car to start if it is warm outside but factors like altitude and humidity can be factors when using any older carb so expect the car to behave the way you described until you can get it replaced / rebuilt or something. The Edelbrock carbs arent 'bad' per se but they have been done by lots of people w mixed results. They definitely work better with the corresponding manifold
It sounds like the only issue your having is the fast idle system on the carb.The way the GM carbs are supposed to work during cold starts. Push the gas peddle down all the way before you turn the key. This closes the choke plate on top of the carb and steps the primary plates open to let the motor idle faster and warm up. The choke then starts to open.( on your v6 the choke is electric. You will see a single wire plugged into the choke) Then you tap the peddle and the idle will come down. The car will usually be able to drive now as per GM.
Your problem sounds like the choke is not working. Check to see if the wire is there. If its there, then check that its working when the key is on.
T
Your problem sounds like the choke is not working. Check to see if the wire is there. If its there, then check that its working when the key is on.
T
Plain Jane said:
Conversely, you could do like me and just embrace the anemic performance. I even made a custom air cleaner decal poking fun at the golf-cart like output.
The Turbo Buick valve covers didn't add the power I had expected. :lol:
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