Buick 350 Swap / CCC

[brrian]

The bores have some surface rust from sitting so they look really ugly in the pictures. They aren't as bad as they appear but there is a ridge at the top so it needs bored.

Hey Joe.

I cleaned off the surface rust before I inspected these & took pics. All but the #2 bore are good.. as you said, just a ridge in the rest. But something gouged or pitted #2. It's visible in the picture. The right half isn't bad but the left is deep enough to catch with a fingernail & gets deeper the further left you go. I think it's probably too deep to hone out (plus, ridges) but I'm going to try & measure it anyway. I have two ideas on how.

if anything is wrong [ and something WILL be] they can correct it right there.

Yeah, this is where I'm at. I'll get it looked at soon & decide if it's worth doing. I sure hope so.

 

[joesregalproject]

You see now why I didn't want anything for it 😁 It's a project. I'd definitely get it to a machine shop and get it hot tanked and magged; doesn't cost a lot, then let them get you prices and see where you want to take it from there. If your car is running an driving right now, enjoy it as-is and build the motor on the side as a slow project.

I don't remember that gouge, but
FWIW the bores in my '72 block were worse than those ones. I only went .020" with it.

 

[pagrunt]

I haven't, because I didn't know it existed. So that operates lockup automatically, as the CCC would? If I go non-CCC I'd certainly prefer that over a switch.

It works based on vacuum as the transmisson is in the lock up gear(s). My '80 Chevy passenger diagram book list it as a MV9 (TH200) feature with one wire going to the transmission case switch. It's only listed in the A/G & F bodies diagrams.

 

[ck80]

You may also want to check out the laws regarding engine swaps. https://19january2017snapshot.epa.gov/sites/production/files/documents/engswitch_0.pdf

I guess it's a good thing I didn't swap engines. First I swapped a frame from an old car to a newer model. Then, due to rust concerns I went with a newer body as well. But the engine itself never swapped at all.

 

[MrSony]

MrSony - you're not using CCC, right? What did you do with your lockup torque converter?

FYI, I'm going to get a price or two on boring .030" over (as you suggest) & whatever else would be right to have the shop do (cam bearings, polish crank, etc.). Then I'll decide how to proceed. Chances are that I'll do it & go ahead & build the 350, but I'll take my time so I can spread out the cost & effort. I do think I'll go with the V6 pistons by the way... I saw an earlier post of yours about that.

Back to the original post subject: I asked Ken @ Everyday Performance about the CCC carb & he thinks that as long as I keep the engine close to stock, I can use a CCC carb & computer from an Olds 307. & I need to make the distributor right. So I'm not sure if I'll keep CCC but maybe it is possible, & maybe I might? Regardless of which way I go, I only care now because i can start looking for the things I need. Deals.

No ccc. Too much work for a severely limiting fuel management system. Just hei and a qjet, nothing fancy. Got about 14mpg with a .470ish life crower level 3 cam.

 

[MrSony]

MrSony - you're not using CCC, right? What did you do with your lockup torque converter?

FYI, I'm going to get a price or two on boring .030" over (as you suggest) & whatever else would be right to have the shop do (cam bearings, polish crank, etc.). Then I'll decide how to proceed. Chances are that I'll do it & go ahead & build the 350, but I'll take my time so I can spread out the cost & effort. I do think I'll go with the V6 pistons by the way... I saw an earlier post of yours about that.

Back to the original post subject: I asked Ken @ Everyday Performance about the CCC carb & he thinks that as long as I keep the engine close to stock, I can use a CCC carb & computer from an Olds 307. & I need to make the distributor right. So I'm not sure if I'll keep CCC but maybe it is possible, & maybe I might? Regardless of which way I go, I only care now because i can start looking for the things I need. Deals.

I swapped in a non lockup th350 when I got rid of the 3.8 and th200c.

 

[MrSony]

It's worth the money to get it bored over. Trust me. Also have the crank and rods ground to get between .00175-.002 bearing clearances on the rods and mains. No more, no less. If the shop tells you different find another shop. YOU CANNOT BUILD A STREET BUICK LOOSE. It will make zero oil pressure.
Ta performance has backgrooved cam bearings for better oiling. A good timing cover with a non beat up pump cavity should have at maximum .002 clearance between the gasket surface of the timing cover and pump gear faces. Pump clearance dictates hot idle oil pressure. Bearing clearance dictates hot cruise pressure. Ta sells an Adjustable pressure regulator for the oil pump and a spring assortment to tailor wot oil pressure limits. All you need is 10psi per 1000rpm. The factory oil pressure spec was 36psi ~3400rpm. The numbers I've quoted are directly from the factory service manuals, not conjecture.

 

[spidereyes455]

I would agree and say ditch the CCC. It could turn into a nightmare considering to the best of my knowledge there never was a CCC controlled Buick V8. That means you would more or less have to cobble a Frankenstein distributor together with a standard buick 350 HEI and a pickup and other internal distributor wiring from a computer controlled HEI with the correct rotation.

 

[olds307 and 403]

What transmission is currently in the car? There are multiple lock up kits available that can be made to work with multiple transmissions. As said, a toggle switch doesn't damage anything if left on. What it does when locked up, at idle, it puts a load on the motor and it either runs rough or stalls. Man those are tight bearing clearances for a Buick 350. If they live a long life and don't clearance themselves when pushed is all that matters. It is a unique motor for sure.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Yes, Buicks are weird. But they last forever. I had a few and each one was actually in great condition considering the mileage. The weak spot is oiling and as Mr.Sony said there are fixes for that. You don't want to try and build a high revving screamer because the internals are not designed for that. But they are stump-pullers and will give you a case of smile-itis if you put a big engine in a light car. 455s are for land yachts, a 350 is just about perfect for a G-body.