Buick engine break in tips?

[Bonnewagon]

What I do with ALL new engines is I screw a mechanical oil pressure gauge into the sender fitting right there on the filter housing. Then when I prime it with a priming tool I can see what is going on. Also when I start it I can see the oil pressure at all times. I begin with disconnecting the rubber fuel line at the pump so no surprises. To set the timing I first get the rotor pointing to #1 at TDC making sure it was a compression stroke. I position the advance can where I have the most swing for adjustment. On a Buick 350 this usually means right between the alternator and distributor. Then I remove all the spark plugs, pop them back in the plug wires, ground them against the intake manifold, hook up a timing light to #1, and set the timing while someone else is cranking the engine. While the plugs are out it will spin nicely without any advance spoiling the timing. Put the plugs and wires back on. Connect fuel line. Now your timing is rock solid and you can start the engine and set the RPM's to whatever the cam manufacturer wants you to for a break-in period. Watch the oil pressure the entire time as well as listening for expensive noises.

 

[MrSony]

I read you got the Thunderbird worked out, I was talking about this engine since you mentioned it in your opening post. Are you trying to confuse me cause I admitted to be old?......

It's quite possible... ANYWAY, Ford is A-OK and the Buick 350 for my Regal is the focus for this thread. Really all I need to do, is like I said clean up the oil pan, set the initial timing right so it'll pop off first crank, and either get a new timing cover, fix mine (coolant ate a divot on surface that mates to engine, jb weld would work?), and retorque the rod bolts with feeler gauges in between because Buick caps don't have dowels and even torquing to spec an make em off set and touch. And some other odds n ends along with a new balancer.

 

[MrSony]

What I do with ALL new engines is I screw a mechanical oil pressure gauge into the sender fitting right there on the filter housing. Then when I prime it with a priming tool I can see what is going on. Also when I start it I can see the oil pressure at all times. I begin with disconnecting the rubber fuel line at the pump so no surprises. To set the timing I first get the rotor pointing to #1 at TDC making sure it was a compression stroke. I position the advance can where I have the most swing for adjustment. On a Buick 350 this usually means right between the alternator and distributor. Then I remove all the spark plugs, pop them back in the plug wires, ground them against the intake manifold, hook up a timing light to #1, and set the timing while someone else is cranking the engine. While the plugs are out it will spin nicely without any advance spoiling the timing. Put the plugs and wires back on. Connect fuel line. Now your timing is rock solid and you can start the engine and set the RPM's to whatever the cam manufacturer wants you to for a break-in period. Watch the oil pressure the entire time as well as listening for expensive noises.

Thanks for the info man. It pains me that it still won't be for a few months. Hate working retail. Right in the middle of the "Slow period." No cash flow. Last check was I sh*t you not 30$. Thank god I'm only 17. If I had anything else than gas to buy I'd be screwed. Now looking for other jobs. I applied at UPS, let's see where that goes lol.

 

[Bonnewagon]

Guess what? I worked for the Post Office for 36 years. Not exactly my carreer goal, but it sure paid the bills. Not only did I buy a house and send two kids to college, I worked on the side doing tune-ups and stuff to fund my car and boat toys. You are 17 years old and building a Buick?!? Good for you! When I was 17 I was standing around with my thumb up my *ss and started working in a supermarket. Life gets better!