Build Thread: '87 442 . . . Time to turn and stop

Status
Not open for further replies.
Well, sadly I think at least some judges would actually notice this. Since the gloss didn't tame down [as you all probably know] high gloss shows every imperfection plus I just don't like the gloss look under the car. I would even prefer to have a rock solid "flat" black on all these new parts I am putting on but that concerns me less especially since it is all baked on powder coat.

Since, at this point, I hadn't finished the upper CA yet, I just need to remove the bottom [new] shock nut and the rear lower CA bolt on the side that is done . . . so it is coming out. Unfortunately, my schedule will take a hit but I want it right and hopefully I won't have to touch it again [in this lifetime anyway].

EDIT: And, this might even mean I will go ahead with the rear disk conversion now instead of later too!
 
Last edited:
What exhaust do you have on your car? Is that stock?
 
This is all 2 1/2" Torque Tech G-body exhaust except for the Magnaflow mufflers and cats. Still looks decent considering it is 10 years old. I commented on an earlier post that all the welds on an otherwise [409] stainless exhaust are all looking quite rusty. And, those cats are pretty rusty too. Time for a little TLC, me thinks. I picked up a set of the same MF cats that are stainless a couple years ago for cheap in case I ever got the urge to swap them? Some have questioned the sanity of even bothering to put cats on this ride but they do work and I cannot begin to get the power I am making to the ground [yet] anyway so they are not hurting a thing and, if it makes my exhaust a little cleaner, WTF?

Of course, making one exhaust for every G-body, it did take some minor tweaks here and there, and then I just clamped it all and drove it gingerly down to the local Midas to weld it up. Sounds REALLY nice which I promise you will all eventually get to actually hear . . . along with actually seeing my motor too as soon as I get her properly cleaned and polished for web presentation.
:wax:
 
One thing is for sure, at least you will do it right considering all the fancy new parts you have on standby! Like stated, might as well do it right this time and not have to worry about it again for quite some time! That's why I'm almost 5 years into my resto, just want it done right even if it takes multiple times on the same part to get the results i strive for!!! Well, it's also a $$$ conundrum too lol since raising 2 little girls is not cheap on my wife and I but wouldn't change that for the world....just save my OT money and buy parts when i can!
Keep it coming.....and YES we all wann see that jewel sitting under the hood someday geesh!
 
And I appreciate the offer to come and help if you were closer. I do actually have friends, believe it or not, but since I am almost 60 and having more than my share of health issues, unfortunately, they are not mucho-motorheads and are in equally bad or even worse shape so I will at least have one of them around to call 9-1-1 for me, open another beer, etc., but they probably won't be under the car helping much.

Though we were not allowed to have kids, I do have two nephews but they wouldn't know the 1st thing about how to help and certainly would not want to get all greasy dirty and sweaty so that is a waste of time. Again, they can call 9-1-1 in a pinch though.

I will at least have someone here to supervise when I do it. The reason I already have a short 4x4 with a chunk of 2x4 on each end is to serve as a cradle for one end of the axle while I work on the other. I am an engineer, you know :rofl:. . . or was before I retired.
IMG_0507.JPG
 
Just more feedback on stuff I am using . . .

View attachment 54247

Not sure I can recommend this product. Being a 3 step process, I assumed it would be more thorough but I'm not very impressed. Naturally, it has a 5 star rating.

1) The degreaser KLEAN product works pretty decent but certainly no better than many others I have used and not as good as some.
2) The etching rust remover BLAST doesn't do much at all. Even tried some full strength. Oh, it does some good, just not much.
3) The sealer SEAL [duh?] is supposed to be satin, not gloss, but it is pretty high gloss. Since my previous pic was when it was still tacky wet, I assumed it would tame down some when dry but it is still high gloss.
4) The sealer is not bonding at all. Probably partly due to the BLAST stage not working very well but it is like putting on a coat of rubber. When you get a chip [like the UMI lowering bracket did to my lower CA mount] you can just peel all that sealer off in big chunks. Even where there was no rust, it isn't bonded to anything but itself.

Short of dropping the entire rear end and having it bead blasted and powder coated . . . Anyone got a better idea?

Just a good cleaning and regular ole Rustoleum would be better than this . . . me thinks. :rant:

I used this product before...it was a nightmare to say the least. I decided to paint the frame on my 75 nova with this stuff. It looked good when I laid it down but it started to bubble and crate a foaming texture when it sat to dry. This product works for some not all. The prep work is #1 most important. But why all the prep when POR15 does the same job if not better. Sad to say the frame on the nova will eventually be powder coated instead.
 
I used this product before...it was a nightmare to say the least. I decided to paint the frame on my 75 nova with this stuff. It looked good when I laid it down but it started to bubble and crate a foaming texture when it sat to dry. This product works for some not all. The prep work is #1 most important. But why all the prep when POR15 does the same job if not better. Sad to say the frame on the nova will eventually be powder coated instead.
I have to say that POR15 is some legit stuff, as long as the prep process is followed!!! Funny thing, when my brother n law and myself started getting it from our local autobody supply store the owner only had 2 different options to choose from. However, we've bought so much that he now has a full display stocked and told us that we helped him get the word out about it lol! You'd think we would get some sort of kickbacks, but hell everybody has to make their profit.
 
I have to say that POR15 is some legit stuff, as long as the prep process is followed!!! Funny thing, when my brother n law and myself started getting it from our local autobody supply store the owner only had 2 different options to choose from. However, we've bought so much that he now has a full display stocked and told us that we helped him get the word out about it lol! You'd think we would get some sort of kickbacks, but hell everybody has to make their profit.
Sometimes you have to be a little blunt. "Hey wheres my cut!" lol. Agreed prep is super important.
 
I went out to work on my tractor this evening and, glancing at the part of the axle that's done, it literally looks like I put some glossy heat shrink over the axle and it pretty much feels like it. Now, other than the overly glossy look, if it was actually bonded to the metal at all, I'd be OK with it. But it's not.

I wish I'd taken pictures of each stage. It went from rusty and greasy to rusty and clean. After the 2nd stage, the rust color was gone but it was still rough in spots. Not like the etch took the rustier places down to bare metal. But, even where it was bare metal, the seal product did not bond. You can just peel it right off . . . except from your skin. It WILL bond to skin extremely well.

Oh well, live and learn. I almost pulled the rear end out to begin with but decided to try and make a local car show coming up next weekend and there would be no way that would happen pulling the rear end out. Small show - no big deal.

It appears I should have asked about this product here first instead of relying on its online 5 star rating, huh? Wouldn't be the 1st [or last] time an online rating was BS. I'll get 'er done right, eventually . . .

Oh, and I ordered this today . . . plus a new proportioning valve.

140-13511_kit-lg.jpg
 
Well, got an email that the Wilwood rear disk kit is on backorder so, combined with the no 17x9s delay on my wheel thread, I just got the rear end ready to pull this weekend and a friend is coming out tomorrow to help me slide it out and lift it on the truck so I can go get it blasted and coated. Wanted to do that to begin with but this product [above] had 5 stars so I thought I'd give it a try.

Better late than never, I guess . . .
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor