Can I remove a lower A arm bolt without completely disassembling the suspension ?

[69hurstolds]

I know the hardware isnt phosphated but since both of my cars are far from original for me it never made a difference. The originals on both cars were pretty rough. Youre right about reusing crimp nuts. For me theyre a one shot deal. Scary thing is Ive seen MANY street rods and quite a few drag cars put together with cheap hardware store grade 5 bolts and nylocks. Makes me cringe every time I see it. Its goes right along with the glass inline fuel filters. SMH

I'm aware of your cars being far from original, and I'm not concerned with the finish on them if I went that route, just that they were the right strength rating. They will surely work. That's why I said "if it matters to you". It sounded as he was wanting to use GM parts wherever possible, and I was simply providing the information about the differences I know about the bolts.

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

I assume you are talking about the lower a-arms. Should be able to put a jack under the arm, and pull the bolt out, you might put a temporary bolt in from the other side as you are turning out bolt, just to hold the Arm in place. But yes, it should be doable.

The other option is to use the spring compressor to take the load off the spring, then pull the bolt out, but I'd rather pull the bolt and use another to hold the A-arm in place.

Yes 403Olds I am talking about the lower A arms. I thought the same thing about using a temporary bolt (most likely the old one from pass side) to keep A arm in place. I hadn't really considered using the spring compressor. I was going to use a floor jack but now I will probably use both. May even purchase a hydraulic jack stand to put right under bushing sleeve.

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

I was going to reply, No. Too dangerous but 403's idea of compressing the spring will take the danger out of the equation.

As for using dies to chase threads. Dies cut and so do taps. I am a robot technician and see alot of threads cleaned up with taps and dies. Almost always you will see traces of metal in the dirt as you clean them. That is how you know too much is coming off and sometimes you can even see, the bolt can wiggle (before it's tightened) more than it used to. Use a thread chaser or just be satisfied on what you can do with a wire wheel.

Rt Jam, I think most of what was missing is due to the bolts being most likely original to the car. I purchased the car in 2005. Drove it maybe a dozen times in 2 years. It sat in & out of non climate controlled garages until about 4 years ago, when I got really into a drivetrain modifications and replacing most of the consumable suspension parts. I was able to replace the longer bolts at both forward mounting points with these:https://belmetric.com/m12x1-75-coar...uSkTLuJVousWRr2ShHPbeQghcrmpe6b8aArgkEALw_wcB

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

I second this, especially the suggestion to use a temporary short bolt to hold the arm in place. Put it in as you back the other bolt out so it keeps everything aligned, then push it out with the new bolt.

I installed my springs from the back/inside, with a jack on the back of the A-arm: https://gbodyforum.com/threads/front-spring-install-methods-moog-5658.86039/post-917759

In addition to being WAY safer (in my opinion... spring just set in, no compressor needed), putting those bolts in was the one of the last steps. You'd just be doing this in reverse.

TYVM for your input into my situation brrian. I may try your spring install method on the passenger side.

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

If you are considering cleaning those threads, the tool of choice is a thread chaser. It is a specially cut die nut that has its cutting edges undersized ever so slightly so that all it does is to "skim" the thread form and its surfaces to remove crud and rust and do some slight reshaping without doing any major cutting or material removal. They are available in metric pitch which is likely what you would be facing with the suspension. Also be aware that the matching nuts for those lower arm bolts are often what is called a "Stover Nut". In the parlance, that means the nut has been slightly deformed during the manufacturing process to alter the upper internal shape of its thread from a concentric circle to more of a triangle. This permits the nut to "lock" to the bolt without the need for lockwashers or threadlocker. While they can be re-used, their ability to relock a second time is affected because the deformation built into them gets pushed out of a triangle and back into a circle during the first use and never comes 100% back again.

As for Option B, new bolts and nuts and using temporary place markers when extracting the old ones to keep the arm aligned in position solid agreement here. You do not want either finger of that arm to drop out of position while you are doing your bolt snatch. Makes things unnecessarily complicated.



Nick

CopperNick, 1st off thank you very much for your input.

Secondly I opted to get: https://belmetric.com/m12x1-75-coar...uSkTLuJVousWRr2ShHPbeQghcrmpe6b8aArgkEALw_wcB and not reuse the old longer forward bolts. I did purchase all new stover nuts a while back. I also bought extra for any future projects, that I would prefer to not use up any extra from this mistake.

Where do you I think I stand condition with kinda reusing the new stover nuts, if they have been threaded on till a hair or so before touching the frame & then removed to change the forward bolts ? The car has never been back down, with all weight on suspension parts, nor was any hardware fully tightened / torqued to manufacturer specification.

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

One bolt at a time will work. I use a good sized punch to put in the side that the bolt is being removed from that way you can move it around to get the bolt back in. And usually the taper on the end of the factory bolt will go right in with an impact.

Definitely a jack directly under the spring to support all of the weight.

64nailhead, Thank You for your input.

I plan on doing things very similar to what to you have explained, inc. the use of a jack.

I will need to buy a punch big enough if this don't help.

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

You can buy the bolts you need from Belmetric. Thats where I bought all the suspension hardware for both of my cars. Grade 10.9 and they sell the correct 10.9 prevailing torque lock nuts. They even sell 10.9 washers if you need them. They sell 1 bolt or 100. They also ship quickly.

Thank you mikester. I went ahead and located these, placed an order and already received 6 pieces.


https://belmetric.com/m12x1-75-coar...uSkTLuJVousWRr2ShHPbeQghcrmpe6b8aArgkEALw_wcB

 

[CRAZY TRAIN 86]

M12-1.75 x 110mm. Last p/n was 11500952. Virtually unobtanium.

The "short" one is M12-1.75 x 95mm. p/n 11502603.

15556240 is the latest GM p/n for the nuts, btw.

Thank You 69hurstolds.
I'm pretty sure the short bolts and nuts you listed are the same ones I ordered & received. I recently ordered & received these for the longer forward most bolts: https://belmetric.com/m12x1-75-coar...uSkTLuJVousWRr2ShHPbeQghcrmpe6b8aArgkEALw_wcB

 

[69hurstolds]

Those should function just fine, IMO. Unless someone knows what bolt should be used there, nobody will likely ever notice.

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