can I save this engine for a while?

[Longroof79]

It probably couldn't hurt to check the compression in at least one or more cylinders,
As Steve pointed out, check for spark...and gas as well. I assume the distributor hasn't been moved or removed.?

 

[Dinosport]

Thanks. I did check spark and fuel. Just in case. Both seemed fine. But I did notice the crank sounded different than before. Seemed like it cranked a lot easier or quicker. I'll double check those things too.
Another thing I'm going to pay attention to is I'll bring it back to tdc before I back off the rocker arm nut. If I see the valve come up a little then I'll definitely know they were too tight and just not allowing the cable to fully close.

 

[Bonnewagon]

What kind of nuts does Chevy use? Ny-locks? On a Pontiac I can't imagine a nut not being jammed against the bottle neck stud at 20 ft lbs because it would loosen up. Does it have a lock nut like poly locks? Anyway, when setting valves I find the absolute best way is this: pull all the plugs and disable the ignition. Then have someone crank the engine while you watch every single rocker open and close. After they close and are on the base circle of the cam, make your adjustment. Start at the first and just go down the line so you can keep track. The beauty of this method is that while the engine is cranking the oil pump is doing what it should by pressurizing the lifters. Having the plugs out relieves the strain on the starter and the battery will last for the entire adjustment process. Once you do this, and it still doesn't start, further study is indicated.

 

[Dinosport]

What kind of nuts does Chevy use? Ny-locks? On a Pontiac I can't imagine a nut not being jammed against the bottle neck stud at 20 ft lbs because it would loosen up. Does it have a lock nut like poly locks? Anyway, when setting valves I find the absolute best way is this: pull all the plugs and disable the ignition. Then have someone crank the engine while you watch every single rocker open and close. After they close and are on the base circle of the cam, make your adjustment. Start at the first and just go down the line so you can keep track. The beauty of this method is that while the engine is cranking the oil pump is doing what it should by pressurizing the lifters. Having the plugs out relieves the strain on the starter and the battery will last for the entire adjustment process. Once you do this, and it still doesn't start, further study is indicated.

I did almost exactly that. Except I rotated the engine with a ratchet instead of the starter. I didn't use a torque wrench. I followed what I read, heard and saw online that most people do. Tighten the rocker to zero lash then tighten it one full turn. So I'm planin to redo it only going a half turn and see what happens.
I'm going to do a before and after compression test just for our knowledge. I'm also going to pay attention to valves as I loosen the rocker to see if the valve closes further when it should already be full closed

 

[Dinosport]

Ok guys sorry its been a while since i replied. I actually only had a chance to work on it one night late and so I couldnt crank it to see what the before compression was. I backed off all the valves and started over. This time once i tightened the rocker so that the pushrod was just got snug I went a 1/4 turn from there. I did that to all 16 valves and the next day I turned the key and it fired right up.
I was excited. I could here a tiny bit of valve noise though.
After talking to a couple of engine builders they all told me basically that the some motors you can do a 1/4 turn after snug sometimes a full turn, you never know the only way to know you got it right is to do it running and already warmed up. they even gave some clips that supposedly will snap on top of the rocker so it isnt shooting oil all over the place.
Ive been driving it locally like that as soon as I can get a chance during the day to park it on the side of the house Ill do that.

 

[Bonnewagon]

That is the best way, on a running engine. Be prepared for an oily mess. The oil that would normally shoot at the valve cover is going to shoot at you. It will also drip all over the exhaust manifolds making a holy hell of smoke. The clips work so-so, I find they fall off at the worst time. Another way is to get a spare valve cover and cut a section out so you can bolt it on yet still get at the rocker nuts. The cover will catch most of the oil. Either way, wear old clothes. EDIT: I read that GM now advises 3/4 to a full turn. The 1/4 turn was for racers so they could postpone valve float for a little higher rpm.

 

[Dinosport]

Lmao. I know it isn't going to be pretty. That's not a bad idea about the valve covers. Maybe I can grab an old set at a swap meet or something and cut our just enough to get at the rocker arm bolts.
Thanks

 

[V8 Rumble]

A while back I did what Bonnewagon mentioned and it better than the clips.

 

[Dinosport]

Thats exactly what I was thinking. Less oil running down to the headers. Im sure one of these race junkies around here has an old set I can have.

 

[Bonnewagon]

I still don't understand how you can keep adjusting the rockers by just loosening/tightening the nuts. Are they poly-locks? Ny-locks? Even ny-locks are only good for a couple of changes. Excuse my ignorance, I don't do stock Chevys much. A stock Pontiac uses a jam-nut that gets torqued down to 20ft-lbs and the hydraulic lifter self-adjusts. Other that that you need to use poly-locks. Can anyone ed-ju-ma-cate me?