can I save this engine for a while?

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Chevys dont have poly locks the set up is different. I have had guys tell me also jst torque to 20, but the more experienced guys tell me that for an old chevy there is no formula that works on all of them. Best way to do it is running.
 
I still don't understand how you can keep adjusting the rockers by just loosening/tightening the nuts. Are they poly-locks? Ny-locks? Even ny-locks are only good for a couple of changes. Excuse my ignorance, I don't do stock Chevys much. A stock Pontiac uses a jam-nut that gets torqued down to 20ft-lbs and the hydraulic lifter self-adjusts. Other that that you need to use poly-locks. Can anyone ed-ju-ma-cate me?

Yes they are self locking nuts - anytime you start talking performance you should use screw in studs and poly locks
 
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Your totally right, Ive heard from many guys that once you throw a cam in a small block its very common to have issues with the rockers, In my case one broke, other guys have the studs start to pull out of the head etc etc.
I didnt change anything because I have a whole other motor to throw in so Im more focused on getting everything together for the swap.
 
If you have another engine you'll be installing then why all the concern about adjusting the valves on this engine if it's running ok?
 
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I was chasing a missfire and found this. That's what started the whole thing with the valves. I also found most of them to be loose and figured I would try to get it right since I'll be driving the car this summer with this engine
 
When I used to work on SBC's I would set up the rockers initially with only zero lash and then fire it up and get the engine up to operating temp. I would use an old valve cover with basically the whole top cut off to avoid any possible interference from the rocker arm clips touching and making additional noises and then I would jack up the side of the car I am adjusting.
Also bend the clips to make them as tight as possible so they don't make rattling noises.
I would adjust one rocker at a time by first loosening it until it clatters and then tighten it back down until it stops, from there I will go a 1/4 turn and the engine usually stumbles at this point so I wait about 10 seconds for it to smooth out and will do my final 1/4 turn and wait for it to stabilize and then move onto the next rocker, I have tried 1/4 to 1 full turn and have always found 1/2 turn past zero lash in 1/4 turn increments worked best for me.
Sometimes, especially when you have headers you have to really concentrate on the exact sound of the rockers clattering so you might have to loosen and tighten them more than once to hear when the clatter is gone.
Also when using a larger aftermarket cam on a stock rocker arm the slot can be a limiting point on lift and without a long slot version you could also see breakage of rocker arms.
 
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Thats some good info there. It makes perfect sence but didnt occur to me that slot would limit the travel causing the rocker to brake. Thats probably why I hear its so common.
Just to verify when your adjusting, the clatter goes away and you do an extra 1/4 turn when the engine smooths out you do another 1/4 turn so youve gone 1/2 turn total just in 1/4 increments?
 
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Used a Greenlee punch on a stamped cover and popped holes where the stud - nuts were, adjustment was easy and you don't have oil flying everywhere
 
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Thats some good info there. It makes perfect sence but didnt occur to me that slot would limit the travel causing the rocker to brake. Thats probably why I hear its so common.
Just to verify when your adjusting, the clatter goes away and you do an extra 1/4 turn when the engine smooths out you do another 1/4 turn so youve gone 1/2 turn total just in 1/4 increments?
Yes, that is correct on how I do my adjustment.
I don't think rocker arm breakage is as common now since there are so many affordable roller rocker arm replacements available but the "cheap" ones have their risks also.
 
Ok guys thanks. If it doesnt pour here tomorrow I might try to get it done. Even though i slightly here the rockers Ive been driving it, since I replaced the broken one. But I would like it to be right so I dont have any other issues till I start my swap
 
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