cant stop this oil leak -long-

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axisg said:
any update ?

The update is that it is all together and I have run it for a few short spurts with no leaks.
Well, no Oil leaks. LOL but nothing big.

When I say run it, I mean in my garage on stands or on the ground but I haven't moved it under it's own power.
I put air bags in the rear springs to keep my tires off my fenders and added my rear sway bar from the donor car.
I have the neutral lockout wired for the shifter but still need to do the reverse lights.
It is coming together and I am taking next week off work so I plan to finish it.

Challenges right now are that i am trying to swap my rear bumper for one in better shape but can't get the one off that is on the car now. Bolts are just spinning.
The other challenge that I have is that my mini starter likes to shift so that the starter gear grinds on the ring gear. Starts fine a few times then makes a god awful noise. I have the starter in now with no shims and it seems to be lined up perfectly. (according to my trusty paperclip) The bolts are cranked good and tight but the summit protorque starter comes with bolts that look like regular bolts and i cant find knurled ones like the stock ones in the aftermarket length.
I have lots of bolts and they are grade 8 and 10. Bent the ones that came with it and the current ones are cranked way past spec.
Fingers crossed that they will hold. I may need to fabricate a bracket to hold the starter in place like some of the older motors had.

How about you? Have you pulled the speakers and rebuilt the seat-back?
 
81GrandPrix383 said:
[How about you? Have you pulled the speakers and rebuilt the seat-back?

seat back went in last fall, major PIA with much skin loss and some blood but its in there now 🙂
viewtopic.php?f=16&t=34897

I am surprised you have not taken the car out for a tear up and down the street at least. The bumper bolts can be a challenge IIRC it was safer to overtighten them and have them break than to try and get them off. Likely need the sawsall in there to cut them off now !

Sounds like you are switching from column shift to a floor mounted shifter. The neutral lockout and reverse lights should be operated by the column not the aftermarket shifter. I did this when I switched from bench to buckets in my old malibu years ago. You need the column or at least the guts from a buckets and console car ( on column shift cars you need to pull the shifter towards you before you can select the gear, console shifter cars dont do this ). So the linkage from column connects to the rod which connects to the bracket on the trans. As you go thru the points on the reverse/nuetral safety switch it will activate your reverse lights and when you can start the car ( park and Neutral only ). The aftermarket shifter will have a solid core cable which will attach with another bracket on the trans and push/pull on the same bracket the column shifter is connected to.

Kind of confusing when I wrote it out, hope it makes sense !
 
Ha, I wish I thought of over tightening the bolts.

I don't have the linkage for the shifter. I did have it but I think it went with the parts car.
With the headers I'm not sure if it would fit plus i have my tach mounted on the steering column so it doesn't turn any more.
I know what to do to hook it all up, just need to get out there and do it.

As far as ripping up the street... too much snow and ice plus getting it back in the garage would be tough with the slippery little ramp. I still need to get it appraised and put some insurance on it. Should get that done next week.

Hey thanks for the mention in the link.
I have a car for sale with a system in it that I need to take out because it's worth more than the car. I don't even know where to begin. lol.
I also took the sub box out of the trunk of my GP. It was so tight I thought it was built in there too. Nothing like yours. I think the guy paid more for the MDF than the speakers.
 
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