carb question
- Thread starter lildhix
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I would agree and say to stick with the qjet. Especially if all you're really doing is driving on the street. I run a 600 dp on my 350 olds and its nice but can be a bit tempermental.
I have the same motor in my 88 cutlass. Sad to say there is not much you can do to it. As far as minor changes to improve performance, with out removing the computer system altogether. You can make sure it is running properly and maybe add headers(keeping o2 sensors)/dual exhaust/high flow cats. Heads from a vin 9 307. Possibly slight cam change. Or bigger motor.
"or bigger motor" sorry bro but thats priceless!! lets just say theres a guy, and lets just say he took everything off and put it back on for whatever reason, and he wanted to set up his 4 barrel ccc roch carb. what would he start with? the idle mixture screws? back everything off? my carb seems set up pretty good but how do i know if its running half *ss or at its full potential? i notice sometimes it seems like my 4 barrels open more cause it doesnt bogg down and it just screams through the gears and other times it doesnt seem to have the jam and once the transmission shifts it basically suckin *ss until the rpm climb again. i almost wanna hook up a cable to manually open them so i know they're at they're...opened-ness....
lildhix said:
I don't think heads differed much if at all between the Y and 9 motors. I think the biggest difference was the cam. You have a 1985 can't remember if you have the 5A or 7A heads. If you have 7A's a swap to 5A's could help but really there isnt much to do on the 307. I have a set of the "large port" 5A 307 heads laying around, with comp springs and studs in them, and some bowl work, that I ran for less than 2k miles.
cutlassguy said:
Technically, the IAB is set with a height gauge, the lean stop is set with a different gauge ( carb must be apart ), the rich stop is set with yet another gauge, and the mixture screws are set at X turns out and adjusted to achieve proper dwell ( which you need a dwell meter for ). You also need a voltmeter to set the TPS. There's more to it, but that gives you an idea. This is why a Chassis Service manual is a must.
If anyone has a VIN Y 307 with the later 7A swirlport heads, you might as well forget trying to get any power out of it and just get a bigger engine. A nice exhaust system is about all you can really do and it would also swap over to a bigger motor too. If you start getting into cam swaps, head swaps and such, you're just going to waste your money.
The VIN Y and 9 heads are basically the same, so no power to be gained there. Simply put, the VIN Y 307 with 7A heads are garbage if you're looking to go fast. Don't bother unless you're really rich or really stupid.
lildhix said:
You can, but since you don't have the 5A headed version of the 307, it ain't worth the trouble. There's a reason why you don't see many people out there with kick *ss 5A headed 307's. Even though they're better for performance than the 7A 307's, they still have alot of weaknesses and no strengths. So swapping out your 7A heads for 5A's ( which would than require the use of a better normal port sized intake manifolds ) would be nothing more than a lateral move. To get serious power out of a 307 requires an COMPLETE expensive rebuild and even if you do that you end up with less performance than you would have if you'd just did all of that to a 350+.
The 7A headed 307 also can only use roller cams too. Roller cams are expensive and unless you do something about the very low compression, you can't really put in a bigger cam anyway.
So to save you alot of aggrivation, time, and money, just don't bother trying to make power with your 307. Just get an Olds 350/403 and drop it in if you wqant more power. Even if left bone stock, it'll be more than what you'd get out of a 'reasonably' modded 307 and be alot less hassle.
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