timing seems a little low, maybe if you pull the distributor and restab it one tooth advanced, there should be a difference there and check all your adjustments on the rockers. I can tell yea to that you wont get 350 hp with those valves. they're too small. Step up to some 2.02/1.68's with a 64cc. than you'll noticed a difference there too.censley said:
Carb Vacuum Pressure
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Man, this is annoying. I've never rebuilt an engine so I don't know much about valves and such about the inner workings. I can switch drive trains out and everything else. It's a brand new engine, not more than 3000 miles on it.
I checked the vacuum pressure this morning and I could only get it to 11.5 hcg after advancing the timing to 15 degrees from 10. Needle still jumps some on vacuum gauge :/
I checked the vacuum pressure this morning and I could only get it to 11.5 hcg after advancing the timing to 15 degrees from 10. Needle still jumps some on vacuum gauge :/
Maybe a compression test would be a good next step. Before that though, pull the pcv out of your valve cover (leaving it attached to the hose) while it's running. Is there vacuum at the valve cover grommet? If so, you are looking for a vacuum leak. If not, proceed to compression test.
Yes. And why no PCV? That's "technically" an emissions part but it's only hurting your engine by not having it. Kind of like running no oil filter. Besides that, your carb is calibrated for the metered vacuum leak that your PCV essentially is.
censley said:
There won't be any vacuum at the valve cover, there is pressure built up and that is why there are breathers on the valve covers. On race engines it's not unusual to have a pump to suck the pressure out.
There would only be vacuum in the crank case if there is an intake gasket leak to the inside. No vacuum is a good thing. I only brought it up because it's an easy way to rule that out.
You really should add a PCV though.
You really should add a PCV though.
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