CCC Elimination on 83 OLDS 98 Coupe 307

[TURNA]

Just a heads up Dorman part number 785-452 is the same part in different packaging if you cant find the 785-452D

 

[OLDSMOBILE307]

I'm getting pretty close to being able to start the engine (or try to at least). Should be able to fire it up in the next couple of days.

Does anyone know how I can retain the A/C? I've searched the topic quite a bit, but am still unsure of what is needed. The A/C clutch electrical plug is not part of the ECM harness, so it is still plugged in. But I know the ECM has something to do with it.

 

[fleming442]

I'm getting pretty close to being able to start the engine (or try to at least). Should be able to fire it up in the next couple of days.

Does anyone know how I can retain the A/C? I've searched the topic quite a bit, but am still unsure of what is needed. The A/C clutch electrical plug is not part of the ECM harness, so it is still plugged in. But I know the ECM has something to do with it.

The HVAC controls are in the 4 pin connector by the heater box. The AC call is the light green, goes to the pressure switch and idle up solenoid, and the dark green from the pressure switch goes to the compressor clutch. I don't think it's tied to the ECM at all.

 

[OLDSMOBILE307]

From what I understand - On Chevy's the computer has nothing to do with the A/C, but that is not true for Oldsmobiles. According to the chassis manual, there are a couple pins in the computer harness for the A/C.

I currently have the idle up solenoid for A/C removed from my carb. Hoping the engine/AC will run OK without it. Just trying to keep things simple.

 

[fleming442]

I was going off my Pontiac when I removed the CCC 3.8. I noticed the same 4 pin plug in the OP's picture....
Regardless, if you're pulling the computer, you should be able to cut the ECM wires with no effect on AC operation, no?

 

[OLDSMOBILE307]

View attachment 90783



This is what I've got at the moment. Amazing how much cleaner the enging bay is. You can actually get to carburetor without the miles of wires and vacuum lines.

I'd like to remove the whole computer harness (or at least cut it off near the firewall), but as you can see in the first pic - It ties into another harness under the dash.

 

[fleming442]

Just unplug it. There is a metal retainer holding the grommet in that needs to be removed before it can come out.

 

[88hurstolds]

I am interested in the ECM harness and EGR solenoid attached to it if you're looking to remove them.

 

[OLDSMOBILE307]

If I can get it out without destroying it (highly unlikely given my skillset ) - I will let you know LOL

I may just cut it as close to the firewall as I can get on both sides and leave it. No one will ever see it, unless they're working on it.

I at least want to wait until I run the engine though..Make sure everything is OK before I totally tear it out or slice it up.

 

[OLDSMOBILE307]

Well - It runs! I'm pretty excited. Took a few minutes of adjusting the distributor to get the timing close so it would fire up, but running pretty good as far as I can tell. Will spend some more time this weekend getting it dialed in. Check engine light is still illuminated unfortunately even with all the wiring removed.

I attached a couple photos. Does it look like my distributor is off a tooth? I'm able to get the timing correct where it is at, but seems turned clockwise just a touch further than it should be. Rotor was facing very close to where the old one was at removal. Should have just enough room/clearance for the vacuum line on the distributor.

I did not try to turn the A/C on. Hoping to find more information on it's function.

Plan/hope is to get the transmission kit in this weekend, button up some stuff, tune the carb, change the oil, and hopefully actually take it for a drive!