Cheating The Reaper

DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#1
First, let me say that this will not be a really fast moving build. In fact, it's taken me 14 years to get it this far. On 11/15/99 I was involved in an accident in my '35 Ford pickup. Not my fault. Just the wrong guy in the wrong car at the wrong time. This was technically my first car and I drove it everywhere for about 7 years.
A couple before shots:
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An after:
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And currently:
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DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#2
Over the years I've collected lots of parts. Bought a '35 Sedan just for the frame.
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A pretty nice grill (on the right), some replacement doors.
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Fenders and hoods.
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Corvette front and rear suspension.
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A few engine choices (LT1, 400, 327, 283)
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Some transmission options (T5, T5, T5, Muncie, A833, A833)
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DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#3
So after several attempts to flip projects to "finally get enough money to finish my truck", I realized I'll never finish it unless I just focus on it and work. Which brings us to today, my 14th anniversary of cheating death. I began by dropping the frame out of the rafters...by myself.
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Well, I had some help from the cherry picker.
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Once I had it on the floor, I sat down with a pen and paper and started making a parts list. Pretty much all that'll be saved from this frame is the outer rails.
 
DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#4
The proposed combination will be:
-Stock body probably dark blue
-Significantly strengthened frame
-1990 Corvette front suspension (has the F41 big brake option)
-1981 Corvette rear suspension with 3.73 posi
-Coilovers in all 4 corners. Possibility of air ride upgrade later.
-Steel 17" & 18" wheels with '40s caps and trim rings
-Probably reuse the 283 that was in it at the time of the accident
-Probably use the A833 overdrive. Maybe on of the T5s.
-Stockish interior

I prefer a traditional hot rod feel. A "street rod" approach is easily dated. I'm in love with this one at the moment.
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More tomorrow.
 
tc1959

tc1959

Comic Book Super Hero
Dec 23, 2009
3,784
784
113
Surprise AZ.
#5
:popcorn: Can't wait.......
 
DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#6
So, I'm looking for some input on my drivetrain combination. There are several engines and transmission choices available. I'm also open to suggestions not listed.

Engine #1. 283 (+.060=292ci) forged flattops. Ported iron heads. DZ302 spec solid lifter cam, carb, intake, distributor.
This was in the truck when it was wrecked. Ran really good and pulled really hard from 5000-7500rpm.
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Engine #2. 400 (+060=413ci) flattops. Junk 883 heads. Comp XE262 cam. Performer intake and Quadrajet carb.
Currently in my El Camino. Pulls like a diesel. Ridiculous torque but all done by 4500rpm.
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Engine #3. LT1. Totally stock.
I have a useable high-miler. Photo is actually my brother's. Mine is on a stand directly behind the tarp.
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Engine #4 LT1/302 hybrid. This can be built by using the block and pistons from an LT1 along with crank and rods from an L99 (aka baby LT1). I'd need to come up with an L99 and spend some money with a machinist.

Now, on to the transmissions. The 3.73 gearing won't be changed so an overdrive will be nice if not necessary. Compound first and cruise RPM are both to be considered. Originally the truck had a 2.79 rear along with a wide-ratio Saginaw 4-speed. With it's 3.50:1 1st gear I had a compound 1st of 9.765 (10:1 is considered ideal) and a 70mph cruise rpm of just over 2500. Pretty nice all around combo.

Transmission #1. New Process A833 (GM code is MY6). Basically, a 3-speed + overdrive. Very strong but heavy. Chrysler used the A833 behind Hemis. Shifter placement isn't ideal but is OK. 1st gear is 3.09 and overdrive is .73. with the 3.73s I would have a 11.52 compound 1st and a 2450 cruise rpm.
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Transmission #2. WC T5. The one I have is from an S-10 but I could theoretically replace the gears with Camaro/Firebird set. Probably best suited for engines under 300lbs of torque but will live a long time behind much more if not abused. Great forward shifter placement in close to stock location. Great for the sleeper look. 1st gear is 3.76 and overdrive is .72. Compound 1st of 14.025 and cruise rpm of about 2450. Really would be better with rear gearing closer to 3.08.
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Transmission #3. Muncie M20. This is originally from my El Camino and no overdrive. Compound first of 9.400 and cruise rpm of 3400. Photo was internet swiped.
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Transmission #4. Aftermarket T56. I could pretty much choose my ideal gearing and there's 2 overdrive gears. Downside? They cost $3000+, bulky and kind of heavy. Special bellhousing required.
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Your input and discussion is welcome.
 
I

IronCastKnight

Apprentice
Sep 8, 2012
94
0
0
Tulsa, Oklahoma
#7
I'm too much of a nub to offer good advices, but I will offer my well wishings! It's great to see a classic pickup getting the love and restoration it deserves, because old pickups are absolutely awesome.

I will second the traditional hot rod approach, because a glossy clean mix of a warm colors and tasteful amounts of chrome just work on classics. Maybe not so much on the giant rims and super-dropped suspension, though.
 
DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#8
Appreciate the positive vibes. I've seen your build -- not a noob. Maybe I misstated the hot rod / street rod thing. I have a lot of appreciation for both. It just makes more sense for me to go traditional(ish) in appearance. I can't afford trendy. Remember Pro Street? Those were really cool until the popular style changed. I'm hoping I can just build it once. Maybe change the wheels or even engine every few years if I want to. Overall, I would like it to survive the test of time.
 
DRIVEN

DRIVEN

Comic Book Super Hero
Apr 25, 2009
4,917
2,110
113
Owyhee County
#9
Took about 6 hours to get from here...
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...to here.
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...to here...
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...and finally here...
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Seemed like a million rivets to grind/cut/drill/hammer. Probably really only about 50 though. Once I finally got it apart, I found the rust wasn't as bad as I suspected. There's an inner rail that curves into the X and and an outer rail that wraps around it. In areas that have cross members it's 3 layers thick. Plenty of places for dirt and moisture to work over the course of 80 years. Now, to find someone local to sandblast the rails. Tomorrow I'll order up some chassis goodies.
 
OldGG

OldGG

Apprentice
Oct 11, 2013
51
10
8
WA
#10
Look's good, I'd go with the 283 I have always liked it. As for trans that would depend on what gears you want to run.
 

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