Cheating The Reaper

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
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I talked to one powder coater who said he occasionally uses JB Weld but prefers a product called U Pol D. He warned that there is always a risk of off-gassing during the baking process. Sometimes he'll first bake a part once just to cure it , then coat it and rebake. It's best to weld and grind smooth if possible. The guy who is doing my parts hasn't used this exact product before. So I guess we'll all see how the experiment turns out.
 

King_V

Master Mechanic
Jul 17, 2013
307
5
18
Sicklerville, NJ
Discovering this thread a bit late in the game.....

I've generally been fascinated by the idea of the LT1/302 hybrid you mentioned. Though it seems that'd take more time and money for you. Still, if you still hadn't fully decided yet, I'd suggest that one. For really NO other reason than that it's an idea that always appealed to me.
 

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
8,062
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That's still a possibility. I've had people tell me that a Ford should have a Ford in it. Lots of other combinations have been floated around as well. I'm planning on the 283 for now. I'll probably give it a cosmetic makeover and run it in the configuration it was when I wrecked it. Then maybe play with different induction systems and maybe heads. Then, if I lose interest in carbs, I want to try the 302 LT1. If I don't love it, it's a pretty simple bracket change to go with something LS based. That's the cool thing about going SBC -- lots of easy options.
 

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
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My front suspension kit and X-rail kit showed up earlier this week. Finally got around to opening the packages. Then got all excited and had to lay everything out. I'm really impressed with the quality of the parts.




Still trying to get the outer rails sandblasted. Saw my brother today and talked about starting the bodywork. We took a good look at the doors and decided what patch panels to order. Hopefully he'll be able to start in a couple weeks. He has a pretty big job on a Suburban to get through the shop before he can begin mine.
 
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thrasher

Greasemonkey
Nov 12, 2013
120
1
0
I'm a big fan of those old Ford body styles, just love them to death.
Good luck with your project!
 

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
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Thanks. So far I've been in collecting mode (obviously) so not much actual work will be done for a little while.
 

Mike P

Master Mechanic
Aug 7, 2009
446
208
43
Arizona
I don’t know how I missed this thread till now. Neat project with a history.

Like some others I like your potential choice of using the 283, it’s an engine that is often overlooked these days, but still a really good engine for the displacement and perfect for a hotrod.

The 283 also peaks my interest in part because I am currently building a pretty much mid 60’s era correct 283 hotrod engine (in part to start teaching my grandson about engine building). Rather than muddy up your thread with my engine build, here’s a link to the motor I’m building if you’re interested…..

http://www.clubhotrod.com/chevy-small-b ... build.html

Have you settled on what you're doing for headers/manifolds on the 283? I just picked up a pair of the Dorman Repop 2 1/2" outlet Corvette rams horns, not bad for the price but they do require a bit of casting flash cleanup.

I’ve had both the T5s and A833 (OD) and am still currently running the Chrysler version of the 833 in my 57 Plymouth (behind a first gen Hemi with a 4.10 gears). For what it’s worth here are my thoughts.

The 833 is far stronger than the T5, but as you mentioned either should live behind the 283 but you will never have to worry about breaking the 833.

Having only 4 gears instead of five you will notice the gear split between 2nd and 3rd on the 833. With the vehicle weight and 3.73 gears, normal everyday driving won’t be a problem or even very noticeable …..where you will notice the split is in a race type situation.

For me the difference I noticed most between the 833 and T5 is the “feel” when shifting thru the gears. The 833s are 60’s technology and feel like it when you go thru the gears, the shift throws are longer and a little more effort is required to engage the gears. That being said I grew up rowing thru gears on Muncies, Top Loaders, 833s and Saginaws and love that feel on an older car or hot rod.

Anyway thanks for posting your build, it will be interesting to follow.
 

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
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Glad you found the thread Mike. I always appreciate your input. I went through your 283 build and really like what I see. Since it's still in the really early stages it wouldn't be too hard for you to start a thread here too. You and the grandson are gonna have some real fun on this and I'm sure lots of other members here would love to ride along.
 

King_V

Master Mechanic
Jul 17, 2013
307
5
18
Sicklerville, NJ
DRIVEN said:
That's still a possibility. I've had people tell me that a Ford should have a Ford in it. Lots of other combinations have been floated around as well. I'm planning on the 283 for now. I'll probably give it a cosmetic makeover and run it in the configuration it was when I wrecked it. Then maybe play with different induction systems and maybe heads. Then, if I lose interest in carbs, I want to try the 302 LT1. If I don't love it, it's a pretty simple bracket change to go with something LS based. That's the cool thing about going SBC -- lots of easy options.

Sweet - glad to hear it - again, for the selfish reason of "I always liked that idea" :p
 

DRIVEN

Geezer
Apr 25, 2009
8,062
14,479
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I got this sandblaster from a coworker. It was his dad's but hasn't been used in about 20 years. He said I could try it out and if it works, it's mine for $40...

I tried it but it didn't work. Shoved it in a corner until I get a chance to look into what's wrong.

Since the frame portion is semi-stalled, I decided to do some work on the engine. Slid it out from under the stairs...

Up on a stand and partially stripped it for a repaint...

Decided to swap out the rockers...




Set the lash and it's ready to go. The springs are pretty (really!) stiff and it's a solid lifter cam that runs .030 lash. It's really hard on valvetrain parts. I ran this engine in my El Camino for a short time and ended up breaking a stud. Basically, it beat the tip of the rocker until it was out of alignment then the edge of the rocker pivot slot sawed thought the stud until it snapped. Here's a look at what happened...

Fresh paint...

New balancer. Top end just sitting on it. Valve covers still need to go to the powder coater.
 
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