Thanks. I'm 99% decided on the 283. About 50/50 between the T5 and A833. If I get a late '80s Fbody T5 and combine it with the S-10 T5 I could have a much better gearing combination for the 3.73s in the Corvette rearend.
Cheating The Reaper
- Thread starter DRIVEN
- Start date
Motor mounts showed up in the mail today. Full length boxing plates are in transit and should be here Monday. X-rail kit ships next week and front suspension kit is about 3-4 weeks out.
I also vote for using the 283...great little power pack.
Keep up the good work. I'm sure you'll give it the love that it deserves.
I almost bought a '36 Ford truck when I was a young kid delivering parts for the local Ford dealer. All original, but needed lots of attention. It was a whopping $250.00. I had no place to store it, or work on it living in NYC.
I'd keep it as a traditional resto-rod. I like the look of it prior to the accident.
Keep up the good work. I'm sure you'll give it the love that it deserves.
I almost bought a '36 Ford truck when I was a young kid delivering parts for the local Ford dealer. All original, but needed lots of attention. It was a whopping $250.00. I had no place to store it, or work on it living in NYC.
I'd keep it as a traditional resto-rod. I like the look of it prior to the accident.
Thanks.Pit said:
That's very close to the combo in my dad's El Camino. LT1/T-5/3.08s. He seems really happy with it.tc1959 said:
I'm almost completely decided on the 283 -- at least for now.Longroof79 said:
Totally agree with you on the resto-mod thing too. The traditional styling is pretty timeless. As much as I love the innovation that goes in to street rod builds, they rarely stand the test of time. The plan is to stay pretty stealthy with the suspension and drivetrain and wrap it in a look that doesn't need to be updated every 5 years. I don't ever plan to sell it so resale isn't my highest priority -- I'd just like to only have to paint it once. Do the interior once. Make sense?
And I apologize in advance for the lack of activity over the next couple weeks. Waiting on the mailman. Not a whole lot I can do without all the suspension brackets.
"That's very close to the combo in my dad's El Camino. LT1/T-5/3.08s. He seems really happy with it."
I have a Roller 350 Crate motor a 700 and 3:24 gear in my El Camino it is a real nice street set up set up. Cruses on the highway nice also.
I have a Roller 350 Crate motor a 700 and 3:24 gear in my El Camino it is a real nice street set up set up. Cruses on the highway nice also.
Since there's not much else to update I'll just post a couple pics of new items. The front suspension kit and X-rails are still not here but the Boxing plates and motor mounts showed up a couple weeks ago.
Since the chassis components haven't shown up yet I've been slacking on this project. A few weeks ago I mentioned that my 510 got broken into. At the time I was buying some valve cover -- the set I'm planning to use on my 283. I didn't think to snap a photo of them before I started but they were covered in a thick layer of gray spray paint. Luckily it was of poor quality and much of it came off after a couple trips through the parts washer at work. Then I bead blasted them. What I was left with was pretty disappointing. I'm 98% certain these were on an engine that had been on fire. I can't think of any other reason for these weird pits and separations. Some spots look almost melted. They aren't warped though.
Anyway, I sanded them for a couple hours and started filling the stuff that was too deep to sand out with this...
It's kind of an experiment. Once I'm happy with the finished product I'll send them with my buddy Nate to be powder coated. Honestly, I'm not sure they can be saved. We'll see. I'm maybe half way done at this point.
BTW, these were probably from an L82 Corvette. At least that's the way I deciphered the date code cast on the inside. This style was also used on the original LT-1s from the early '70s and the DZ302 in the 1st gen Z/28. GM Performance still sells them new but they cost about $250-$300. I've seen sets sell for $500-$1000 if they have the right date codes. Resto guys are crazy.
Anyway, I sanded them for a couple hours and started filling the stuff that was too deep to sand out with this...
It's kind of an experiment. Once I'm happy with the finished product I'll send them with my buddy Nate to be powder coated. Honestly, I'm not sure they can be saved. We'll see. I'm maybe half way done at this point.
BTW, these were probably from an L82 Corvette. At least that's the way I deciphered the date code cast on the inside. This style was also used on the original LT-1s from the early '70s and the DZ302 in the 1st gen Z/28. GM Performance still sells them new but they cost about $250-$300. I've seen sets sell for $500-$1000 if they have the right date codes. Resto guys are crazy.
Do you know if that Metal to Metal filler you're using will allow the powder coat to adhere properly? I'm looking for some filler that will accept powder coating so I can smooth out some rough parts I have.
Scott, ...
Scott, ...
