Cheating The Reaper

[DRIVEN]

Thanks for taking the time.

I'm going to use the A833 to start out. It may only have 4 gears but it's strong and actually has the most complimentary gearing to match the rear. BTW, the transmission in the last pics is the Muncie from my El Camino being used as a placeholder since it's the lightest thing I had on hand. The A883 I'll actually be using is also an all aluminum case unit but it's currently in the El Camino. On the first page there is a photo of transmissions all lined up. The one 2nd from the right is also an A833 but with an Iron case. That one has a fresh rebuild and goes in the El Camino. It's probably more work than necessary but that's where I want everything to end up. The Muncie will go back on the shelf.
The 400 in the El Camino will probably go up for sale next spring so I can finance the rebuild of it's original 327. Haven't decided if the Muncie will go back in it or the overdrive will stay. But that's another thread, I guess.

Hoping to get out to the shop tomorrow and get more work done on the '35 but if there's a break in the weather I really should do some yard work. Gonna have a house full of out-of-towners for Thanksgiving and I'd like to make a good impression. More to come...

 

[Mike P]

Sounds like it’s going to be a fun drive train. The 283 should be pretty happy around town with the rear gearing and ratios in the 833 and be very drivable on the highway.

I generally prefer the cast iron case ones (except when I have to pull or install one) as I have seen a couple of cracked aluminum cases, but behind the 283 it should live forever. I’ve had several of the Chrysler versions of the 833 ODs over the years, but have I’ve never been able to find the GM version (and bellhousing) out here in AZ.

 

[DRIVEN]

Yeah, I think it should be a happy medium. According to my gear calculator it should have almost the same cruise RPM that my old combo was when I ran this engine before the truck was wrecked. It used to get about 20mpg so I know about what to expect. I used to drive the wheels off this thing and plan to do plenty of long trips again once it's done.

I'm really a fan of the A833 (MY6) and I'm always on the lookout for them. The first one I bought was a cast iron unit with a bellhousing (which can be tough to find) and the factory Hurst shifter for $100. I specifically asked the guy if it needed bearings and was really clear that I didn't care if the answer was yes, I just didn't want to install it and then have to pull it out and rebuild it. He swore it was fine. Well, it wasn't so I yanked it and put a bearing and synchro kit in it. Somehow I managed to leave a washer out on the cluster and the needle bearings migrated forward and ate up the case taking the cluster with it. Just to see what would happen, I posted a wanted ad on CL and to my surprise I got a reply. This one was aluminum ( the one that'll end up in the '35) with no shifter or bellhousing and had buggered up threads on one of the shift levers -- $200. I threw bearings and synchros in it and it's been in the El Camino ever since. I kept looking for parts to fix the first one and came up with another cast iron version with a shifter and bellhousing fo $250. Only thing is, this one is from a 4X4 so the tailhousing and main shaft are different. So considering I have a total of about $800 (with rebuild kits) in 2 completely rebuilt units I figure I'm in OK shape. That's Saginaw money these days. Plus I've still got most of a 3rd so I'm still on the lookout.
Every once in a while they pop up for ridiculous prices being referred to as "Hemi 4-speeds". By ridiculous I mean $1000-$1500. True, a version of the A833 did come behind Hemis but that's kind of like how EVERY double hump (camel hump) SBC head is referred to as "fuelie" heads.

Edit: While we're on the subject, there are several different GM versions of this transmission. Not only is there a cast iron and an aluminum variant, there are also some that have the "traditional" GM front case bolt pattern as well as the MY6 specific hybrid pattern. In fact, the bellhousings often have dual bolt patterns on the transmission mounting surface. The hole for the front bearing retainer (throwout sleeve) is larger though, so the traditional style cases won't just bolt up to any old passenger car bellhousing. I plan to turn my retainer down and use allen head bolts to use it with my scatter shield. AFAIK there was no BOP bellhousing although it could theoretically exist since the 5.7 diesel was available in trucks at the same time the MY6 was available. While I haven't seen one yet, they may actually exist.

 

[DRIVEN]

Let me just drop this here...

Even when it's in the 30's outside. It does take a couple hours to get there though. Shop needs the insulation finished.


Anyway, when we left off I had it mocked up but needed to move the crossmember.

Pulled the engine and stripped the frame...

...disposed of a few tack welds and dropped the crossmember out.

This shows how the inner fender fits. I'll need to trim access holes for the upper control arms.

 

[DRIVEN]

Tacked the crossmember back in about 3/4" back. Decided not to drop it. Note the added hole in the forward upper control arm mount that gave me a bit more clearance for the fender. Made a cardboard dummy so I could reference the fender to the wheel.


Trimmed out my C-notches for the rack. This area isn't even close to done yet.

Set the engine in place and installed the Alternator and brackets. The engine is placed high enough that the bottom of the scatter shield is even with the front crossmember and transmission crossmember. The carb flange is leveled and there is driveline clearance under the cab floor. There's really just enough room in the sweet spot.

A little tough to see here but there isn't quite enough room between the alternator and the rack. It technically fits but there isn't full range of adjustment so I'll be dropping the rack just a shade.


At this point I'm working on the pedals. I'll post pics when the task is completed.

 

[DRIVEN]

Parts started to show up...

 

[DRIVEN]

Couldn't resist seeing how some of them looked in place. Installed the fuel pump (OE AC Delco).

Set the rear swaybar roughly in place. I'm considering notching the frame and installing it from the bottom.

Set the new polished valve covers on and bolted up the Tru-Ram manifolds I got from Speedway. They fit perfectly like they were made to fit my application.

 

[ssn696]

Those manifolds look like Allstars. What do you think of the castings? I am also looking at the Wysco version on Jeg's. I am building a 72 K10 for a friend and he does not want headers. Looks like they are going to just barely clear your control arm mounts...

 

[DRIVEN]

I'm not sure who actually cast them, but they all look to be the same. I'm pretty impressed with the casting quality though. They are thicker and heavier than factory Chevy ram horn manifolds. They leave quite a bit more clearance for plug wires too. Plus, the collector is a good 3/4-1" closer to the block so they have blockhugger header-ish clearance there too. It looks close to the control arm mount but that's just the weird perspective in the photo. I can actually fit my fat finger all the way around it. The OE ram horn almost touched. They aren't necessarily cheap but for what I wanted, all the bases were covered.

 

[Mike P]

Some more really nice work!!!

I like the looks of the manifolds and V covers you picked. Personally I kind of like the Sway Bar top mounted like it is.....I kind of think that it may make it look a bit cleaner when you peek under the bed.

I kind of got side tracked from automotive projects for a while (building some gun presentation cases and reminding myself why I don't work with wood LOL).

Merry Christmas to you and yours


Mike