Cheating The Reaper

Thanks, Mike. There's a couple reasons for my thinking on the notched frame swaybar. First, the bed sides won't fit over it without some surgery. Plus I'd have to pull the bed if I ever wanted to upgrade. Secondly, to keep the geometry closer to ideal it needs to be lower. The final reason is something I was thinking about a few weeks ago. Since this whole build is coming about due to an accident, I was thinking about a "what if next time..." and thought that maybe the front C notchs for the steering rack and the notches for the rear swaybar might act as crumple zones. That might help isolate damage from a moderate bump at either end to the outside of any suspension points and hopefully minimize damage. The bumpers are basically cosmetic so it wouldn't take much of a hit. I don't know. Maybe I'm over thinking it.
 
And each of my kids picked a project truck/car from my back-yard collection of dreams/delusions, so I told my wife I have to keep at least three of them....
 
Not sure I could pull that one off. My daughter has no interest in the cars I have until they're gone. Still complaining about a car I sold 10 years ago.
 
Nice work so far..and I like your choice of parts. It should drive nicely with the Mustang II front suspension setup..
I like that you chose using the old school rams horns manifolds and the LT-1 style valve covers, I always liked those.
Keep up the great work. I will continue following your build. :wink:
 
Finally! Done with the pedals. Let me start by saying that if I had any idea how much work was involved in making these fit I never would have bought them. They were really expensive to begin with but I figured it would be worth it since they were made by the same company that made the crossmember and X-rails and theoretically were supposed to be a perfect match. I should have made my own. Too late now. Anyway, this is how it went down...

^^The green tape indicates where the pedals would come through the toeboard if I just installed as directed. Too close together. No problem, I'll just zig the brake pedal over. Started by disassembling.

Cut the pedal in half and add a section of box tubing. You can't see but there are pins welded through all 3 parts of the pedal. The small angle parts were used as end caps to the filler piece. So it was plenty strong but I didn't like the sideload (twist) that I figured would wear out the bushings prematurely.

My solution was to add an outer brace to the tip of the pivot. Drilled and tapped the pedal. Then made a bushing and welded a pin to the extension plate.





It looks a little Rube Goldberg-y but it's functional and out of sight.

But wait, there's more. They also use a specific (no part # listed) master cylinder which I didn't order due to the ridiculously high price. Instead, I went with a Speedway (mfg by Afco) unit. That made it necessary to enlarge the center hole, redrill the upper hole, and fabricate a backer plate so that the lower hole would have not just be an imaginary point in outer space. Also made an L-bracket and found a pin for the clutch pedal.




At least now the pedals come up through the floor where they're supposed to.
 
Next up was mounting the pedal assy. It was intended to be welded to the frame rail but I wanted to be able to remove it if I ever wanted to change things up. Drilled some holes in the bracket, then the rail, then larger access holes on the outside of the frame.



It was also necessary to remove a 2" support tube and replace it with a smaller one so that I'd have room for exhaust.

^^Also visible is the master cylinder mounting plate. Note the holes for optional brake booster. I'm really glad I decided not to go that route.

How's this for tight quarters? Still need to leave room for the shifter and linkage.

^^You'll see a section of exhaust pipe in the space I made. There's room for 3" if I want it. I'm using a pull type slave cylinder. This gives a view of the proximity with the brake pedal down.



Sometimes being a hoarder pays off. I keep this box full of take-off belts for occasions such as this. Dug through the pile and found a perfect fit for my alternator. That'll give me a part number for the new one to take to the parts store. Also test fit a flex fan.


Not shown, but necessary, was dropping the steering rack another 1/2". Gave just enough clearance for the alternator. Last order of business was the simple brackets for the proportioning valve. That will be located directly behind the master cylinder.
 
Pre weekend update...

Opened a spot for the rear swaybar.


The brackets fit inside the rail but the bushings needed to be shaved.


I'm in the process of making some bolt-in fillers to give back the structural integrity. Overall it fits really nicely.

I needed to fabricate 2 corner gussets for the rear as the originals were too mangled to save.

My dual snorkel air cleaner finally showed up. Still kind of on the fence about it. I really like it but not sure yet if it's right for this project. It stays for now.
 
Then it was time to separate the cab and break it all down one more time.

You ever start doing something and just know it's a bad idea?

Added a safety chain once it was all the way up.

Got it all leveled and squared again. Now it's all ready to start welding and grinding. Soooo much grinding.


The only other thing I got accomplished was bolting up the clutch.
 
8 hours in the shop today. Weld / cut/ grind / repeat. Still looks relatively unchanged. Pics when there's something to show.
 
As promised...some pics...finally.
Dropped the cab and moved it in to the corner.

There were some gaps on both sides where the crossmember meets the frame rails. I used some scrap round stock to fill the gap. Then welded it all together.


Since the cutout for the rack had been opened up after the crossmember relocation, I filled it back in. Then I Cut them out again, welded in the filler cuffs and did the cleanup grinding. What you can't see is the 1" solid stock bars that were welded to the inside of the frame rail to add a bit more frame strength. If it weren't for the swaybar mounts being ahead of the notches it probably wouldn't be necessary at all. I'm so embarrassed of these welds.


Another small point that needed attention was the transmission crossmember. For whatever reason, the manufacturer felt that a 3/16" flat plate would be sufficient. It was bowing just during the mockup. I added a 1"x1/4" strip to the front edge. Should be stiff enough now.


Then I got busy welding the boxing plates to the frame, grinding the welds smooth, hit the surfaces with a flapper disc.

At the very front the upper part of the rail angles in and the bottom stays straight. Since the angles didn't meet, I had to make a filler. Nothing fancy but little jobs like that take time. Several little jobs add up to days of work.


Tried to get a shot of the welds but camera did not want to focus. Basically, it's about 10000 continuous spot welds. Urg.

And there it is. Doesn't look much different does it?
 

GBodyForum is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com. Amazon, the Amazon logo, AmazonSupply, and the AmazonSupply logo are trademarks of Amazon.com, Inc. or its affiliates.

Please support GBodyForum Sponsors

Classic Truck Consoles Dixie Restoration Depot UMI Performance

Contact [email protected] for info on becoming a sponsor