Cheating The Reaper
- Thread starter DRIVEN
- Start date
It is. Very late C3 ('81) Dana 44 with aluminum case, rear cover and batwing. Gearing is 3.73 with limited slip. The '80-'82 is kinda transitional. '63-'79 is the same design but weighs a bunch more due to iron case and cover. '84-up (C4) has the aluminum weight savings but is a weaker Dana 36 and totally different trailing arm layout. Plus, they don't fit at all so you have to basically back-half the frame.
As far as setup goes, these are fairly straightforward since they're essentially an assembly. All that really needs to be done is set the pinion angle (like any rearend swap) and locate the trailing arm brackets so there is equal distance between the front and rear wheels on each side. As I eluded in the previous posts, the toe will be adjustable as will setback. Plus, I have a buddy who has owned an alignment shop for 30 years who will be checking my work before everything is burned in permanently.
As far as setup goes, these are fairly straightforward since they're essentially an assembly. All that really needs to be done is set the pinion angle (like any rearend swap) and locate the trailing arm brackets so there is equal distance between the front and rear wheels on each side. As I eluded in the previous posts, the toe will be adjustable as will setback. Plus, I have a buddy who has owned an alignment shop for 30 years who will be checking my work before everything is burned in permanently.
How strong are the dana44's?
I've built a 71 c3 with the old iron rear end. I changed the gearing at one point, but it held up to a 509bb without any problems. But the late c3 seems a bit less durable. I love the fact they're aluminum though.
In thinking an IRS would be "just the thing" if one was serious about corner carving.
Anyhow.. Cool addition. I can respect the effort this requires. There are no easy fixes i can imagine.
I've built a 71 c3 with the old iron rear end. I changed the gearing at one point, but it held up to a 509bb without any problems. But the late c3 seems a bit less durable. I love the fact they're aluminum though.
In thinking an IRS would be "just the thing" if one was serious about corner carving.
Anyhow.. Cool addition. I can respect the effort this requires. There are no easy fixes i can imagine.
How strong is the 44? I'm not sure but they used them in everything from Jeeps to Vipers to Jags. It should be plenty strong for what I'm putting in front of it.
I'm glad you're enjoying the build.
I'm glad you're enjoying the build.
I’m really enjoying your build on this. You comment about thinking a few steps into the future is dead on. I’ve done work on more than one vehicle where what should have been a simple job turned into a marathon because the fabrication wasn’t thought thru.
You might have noticed my 37 Dodge PU in the background on some of my other threads. It’s been an on an off project for the last few years and I’m back on it again (at least for a while). I’m heading in more of a traditional 60’s build (with a few exceptions like a Mustang II rack and overdrive transmission). Until I looked over your rear suspension I thought I was having fun just hanging a Dana 60 on leaf springs (and undoing the previous owners attempt at installing a rear end).
Right now my goal is just to get it thru mockup and maybe moving under its own power before blowing it apart to do things like box the frame and body work.
I’m running a build thread here if you’re interested.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-build ... ge-pu.html
You might have noticed my 37 Dodge PU in the background on some of my other threads. It’s been an on an off project for the last few years and I’m back on it again (at least for a while). I’m heading in more of a traditional 60’s build (with a few exceptions like a Mustang II rack and overdrive transmission). Until I looked over your rear suspension I thought I was having fun just hanging a Dana 60 on leaf springs (and undoing the previous owners attempt at installing a rear end).
Right now my goal is just to get it thru mockup and maybe moving under its own power before blowing it apart to do things like box the frame and body work.
I’m running a build thread here if you’re interested.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/hot-rod-build ... ge-pu.html
I've admired that truck for years , ever since seeing it in one of your threads. Appreciate the link. Just went through the whole thing.
"On the bright side I did save it from getting a 2.8 V6 / C3 / 8” rear end with 3.00 gears from a Mustang II. I think my plans going to be a lot more fun." Couldn't agree more. I like the idea of a '60s vibe. Those wheels look like they'd be at home under a '70s Trans-Am racer.
"On the bright side I did save it from getting a 2.8 V6 / C3 / 8” rear end with 3.00 gears from a Mustang II. I think my plans going to be a lot more fun." Couldn't agree more. I like the idea of a '60s vibe. Those wheels look like they'd be at home under a '70s Trans-Am racer.
Good eye on the wheels. I like them a lot and you just don't see them. Unfortunately the bolt pattern is slotted but only for 5 on 4 3/4 or 5 on 5.......and Mopar uses 5 on 4 1/2. The truck also needs just a bit more backspacing than they provide so they are on the way back to the shed to hibernate, My Mustang II rotors are drilled for 5 on 4 3/4 and 5 on 4 1/2 so I'll dig up another pair or Mopar steel wheels for now.
I think some Mopar steelies and dogdish caps would look cool. More period correct too. Maybe with some redlines?
Not sure I can actually call this progress but I came home Sunday after shooting with some buddies and found that the booth had been cleaned and parts staged for epoxy prime coat. It's nice to see that something has been done but nothing has actually been sprayed yet. Bare metal + 100% humidity = no bueno.
