choke question

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rhyno811

Apprentice
Mar 2, 2009
96
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16
Central NJ
patmckinneyracing said:
....eventually after it gets warm ill step on the gas and hear a backfire and it goes down to 1000 rpm. the car is all stock and the carb is rebuilt. im car savvy but i've been out of the v8 seen for awhile. can anyone help?

Now I agree with it possible being the fast idle screw requiring adjusting. But at the same time, if your car is back firing that's normally an indicator that your timing needs to be adjusted. Plus if the timing hasn't been checked, being that your running a 24 year old stock set up, than you might want to just check it anyway just for safety sake. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

ok, so by advancing or retarding the distributor it may stop the back firing? i just installed an MSD coil, MSD cap and rotor, and accel 8mm wires, and it seems that its back firing more. and i know there is no crossed wires. i triple checked before starting. one other thing, this car is completely stock (smog pump and all the hoses) i really want to gut all the smog stuff, but there's all these metal lines running into the exhaust manifolds and hoses running into the carb. what needs to be done to delete all this smog stuff? i also have been told by a mechanic that i should keep all the smog stuff on even if i run headers.. he says that cars runs like crap after you delete the smog system. whats the pros and cons of deleting it?
 

patmckinneyracing

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2009
2,021
3
36
San Antonio, TX
Tell that mechanic he doesn't know what he's talking about first of all. Our cars run so much better with out that smog system its not even funny. It eliminates a lot of weight off the front of your car and allows for more horse power. The smog system back then is primitive and really does not do any good as far as emissions standards. Being that your car is almost an antique like my 80 malibu, you don't have to worry about meeting emissions inspection standards as much (depending on what state your in). I wish I were there cause I've already kanked those smog systems on my malibu, a 85 silverado, and another dodge pick up. If you take off the complete smog system, it allows for the motor to be freed up and provide more horse and torque. If you put on headers, the car will breathe easier than it would with stock manifolds. And if you have that charcoal canister you can chuck that whole assembly too. Whatever hoses you remove make sure you cap wherever those hoses went to. If you take the EGR valve and other misc. crap off your intake manifold you can cap those as well with the proper fittings. They sell them in all the hardware stores. My suggestion would be just getting an edelbrock intake and keeping your carb since its rebuilt. Are you running a Q-jet carb or do you have the 2 barrel throttle body?
Now I know your going to need to get your timing redone because you swapped out the majority of your electronic system. All the parts you put in as far as the wires, cap, etc. are aftermarket and not stock so you will have to get your timing done and that should eliminate most of your problems. Also, do you have any pics of your engine (specifically without the air cleaner on it)?
 

rhyno811

Apprentice
Mar 2, 2009
96
0
16
Central NJ
Its got the Q jet carb. Not to ask to much but all those metal lines running into the exhaust.. won't they leave holes in the exhaust? I really don't wanna come off like an idiot but if you can tell me what needs to be plugged where when I'm removing this sh*t... I don't know what I need to buy from the hardware store. Do I need egr? I don't want a check engine light on constantly... don't they sell dummy egr valves? What can I plug in the spot where the smog hoses run into the carb? Basically what all needs to be done to get rid of the unnecasary crap under the hood?
 

patmckinneyracing

Royal Smart Person
Jan 18, 2009
2,021
3
36
San Antonio, TX
With the metal lines that go into the exhaust manifold, there are bronze caps that they sell in the parts store that you basically screw into the holes after you remove those lines. Make sure you put white plumbers tape or liquid sealer around the cap's threads before screwing it in permanently. As far as specific size, it'll be trial and error. Most parts stores will let you take them outside to test fit and then bring them back in.
With the EGR valve, that should not leave a check engine or idiot light on permanently (didn't do it with my car). The same thing applies after you remove the EGR valve. They make bronze cap fittings that will screw into that same threading and seal it off. You have to use liquid seal or plumbers tape as well.
If you pull the hoses out of the carburetor, they make rubber caps that you push right over the vacuum ports. I would strongly suggest taking your car to another mechanic and tell him what you want to have done. Make sure they've worked on these cars before and explain that you want the smog system removed and they should know what to do. At the same time, get your timing done on your motor after you get the smog system removed. Your putting aftermarket parts and removing stock parts so the timing will need to be done.
 

rhyno811

Apprentice
Mar 2, 2009
96
0
16
Central NJ
ok so now i went out and started the monte and the idle was sitting at like 500 rpm. so i advanced the distributor and got it to about 700 then set the idle on the carb to about 1000 it sounded good. i went to drive it and when i put it in gear the idle was only at 600... i took for a quick ride and it was doggin! just felt like it wasnt goin anywhere. im kinda goin crazy and i have no clue what to do now!
 

foxtrot

Royal Smart Person
Dec 19, 2008
1,489
590
113
USA
It has to be looked up in the shop manual but I think the factory setting for the 307 olds is 20 degrees BTDC.
 
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