The main reason you'd want to make this swap is to replace the uppers with aftermarket arms that have longer geometry and/or tall ball joints. Besides getting new bushings for free, these features correct the factory steering geometry - as the weight of the car compresses the spring, swinging the arm up, the factory design tends to pivot the top of that wheel outwards in a turn, creating 'positive camber'. That means the tire working hardest to turn the car is rolled onto its sidewall, shrinking the tread contact patch. Combine with a good sway bar, and maybe lowering springs, you will feel an improvement in handling. Moog factory-style lower control arms are available with new bushings and ball joints for less than tubular lowers. You may need to use S10 arms, as the supply of G-specific parts has dwindled over 40 years. The S10 arms need larger-diameter bolts, but you can drill the frame holes to match.
