Converting to tubular a arms

[scoti]

The weight loss is almost a negligible amount,for the money. Most of your arms on the market are just tube versions of the stockers. Coming from a age standpoint point some of these arms are 40 plus years old and ive seen them develop cracks around the lower ball joint area and that's pretty sketchy as there's your load bearing. Price wise what do you really gain if you don't buy the ones that incorporate better geometry?Hell I can see it from a standpoint where I wouldn't want to rebush/joint an old arm an still have what I started with.it all depends on what your goals ultimately.

Weight difference is negatable for their function.
Tubular = increased torsional strength vs. stamped steel.
Cost savings? If they're quality arms w/quality parts, you should not be saving money vs DIY. If you are saving $$, I would question the quality of the parts. But that's how more than one manufacturer get's people to bite..... Tubular arms w/zero geometry improvements & cheap, over-seas replacement parts that will have a short life-span.

Tubular arms that offer geometry improvements, functional improvements, & quality consumable parts are a worthy investment if you are a spirited driver. If you're just cruising the car around the block occasionally & take it to lawn-chair/Good-Guys or similar type car shows, rebuilt stock stuff is more than adequate.

 

[ssn696]

The poor man's option is to reuse your factory upper arms, and replace the ball joint with a taller version, such as Pro-forged. New rubber bushings will be fine, and ate not expensive, but challenging to DIY when RIP - rusted in place.

 

[scoti]

The poor man's option is to reuse your factory upper arms, and replace the ball joint with a taller version, such as Pro-forged. New rubber bushings will be fine, and ate not expensive, but challenging to DIY when RIP - rusted in place.

As far as I know when doing tall ball-joints on a stock height spindle (or swapping to an actual tall spindle), the lower arm can be re-used but the upper arm needs to be shorter for the new Camber curve.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

They appeared today. Hopefully the coil insulators are in today

 

[ssn696]

As far as I know when doing tall ball-joints on a stock height spindle (or swapping to an actual tall spindle), the lower arm can be re-used but the upper arm needs to be shorter for the new Camber curve.

Combine this with a Moog problem-solver cross-arm kit when you do the bushings. This design replaces the flat cross-arm with one that is offset. When bolting it to the frame plate, flip the cross-arm so the bushings are offset inboard. This will help too.

 

[ssn696]

Problem solved.

 

[MontesbyE]

So other than being stiffer from the poly bushings and some weight loss. what is the gain going to that style A-arm setup?

Weight over the stock stamped arms, The tubulars are also stronger than stock. Relocating the ball joint to a more tolerant position. Like you mentioned the difference in the bushings, the kit I used also replaced the sway bar end links with a roto style.

 

[Kelvin's80442]

Gutted

 

[Kelvin's80442]

What will this do?

 

[Kelvin's80442]

The spring is heavier but about 3 inches shorter