MONTE CARLO "COPO" Monte Carlo SS - Turbosaurus Build (Swinging Dick Racing's c*ck got bent... she bounced a little too high & hard, & came down awkwardly)

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I bought some e-bay rails and had tabs tig'd onto them to mount on the Trailblazer intake. I had to cut down the mounting bosses as well. My rails are custom fit to my intake so if I swap intakes for whatever reason, then I'm going to need to adjust the intake to fit the rails - not a bog deal really, unless I sell the car to some unsuspecting person (I wouldn't do that though.)

I went with rails from ebay only because of the inside diameter being 5/8. I called Holley and looked everywhere for them. It seemed most were 3/8 inside diameter and only the custom rails I found were 1/2". And Holley does make a set for a Trailblazer intake that would accommodate the 210's with fuel hats. And I feel your pain with alignment - I test fitted them about 20 times to get them to align correctly. IIRC the Trailbazer mounts are not symmetrical side to side. I know my rails are side specific. I've got photos somewhere - I thought I put them in my thread, but they aren't there. Maybe I IG'd them, dunno.

As you've discovered, all O-rings aren't the same size :


But I contacted my injector guy and he sends them to me for free. He's in Buffalo - you can find him on Facebook - Grant J Farmer Fuel Injector Services.

Not sure how I missed this post. Thanks for the info and insight. Yes, it is been a long trip down Struggle Street with Satan Elmo holding a lit match telling me to "vaxx" my kids and take them to story time with drag queens along the way... or else.

I found this crappy bit of data on the box fresh Deka 80s.

1656524069201.png

For reference here are the rails I am running:

No o-ring data provided.

Similiar units from Holley:

Unsurprisingly, no data either.

So the only thing to do is measure the bung, add the appropriate amount of squish, and ordering the right ID/OD o-rings. Something that is rarely disclosed or discussed.

On the mounts... here are the iterations I have been through at this stage. On the left are the supplied units from Summit which worked right up until they didn't, complete with extra holes added by me. They pushed the rails away from the lower manifold bungs and attempt to stand them upright at the same time, while suspending the injectors with too much vertical play. The aluminum ones on the right fixed the vertical play and brought the injectors into better alignment fore and aft. But, still not enough to mix the misalignment. The third iteration are the ones in the middle. These key-looking brackets allow the injectors and rails to sit in their natural and intended position. Nothing is forced on any axis. It's been a process to say the least.

PXL_20220629_174343596.jpg


Unfortunately these remain untested as I had to drop everything yesterday afternoon to rescue Natasha who'd locked herself out of the Camaro at the school. Turn about is fair play considering she dragged this heap home the other night. Might be time for a remote keyless entry option for her car through her phone... or mine?

Final point before I go grab a bite.

I have a glycerin filled gauge coming for tomorrow (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07T68T29H/?tag=rippca-20), remembered that the TBSS has a pressure transducer available (just need to swap the adapters between vehicles), and I decided to get some 2.125" tall polyurethane bump stops (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CNB5OK/?tag=rippca-20) to replace the foam ones. This should alleviate the suspension droop/fender-liner smashy-smashy problem for the time being.

More to follow.
 
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These are the injector O-ring I've used on all of the Deka 27,60 and 80lb injectors I've installed. They have worked on a set of Aeromotive rails, 1st generation truck rails (plastic) and a couple of sets of TPI rails. They are thicker than the original OEM o-rings.

I found the pictures of the setup on my old phone if you want them. Let me know. But my rails are not the same as yours (welded tabs.)
 
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These are the injector O-ring I've used on all of the Deka 27,60 and 80lb injectors I've installed. They have worked on a set of Aeromotive rails, 1st generation truck rails (plastic) and a couple of sets of TPI rails. They are thicker than the original OEM o-rings.

I found the pictures of the setup on my old phone if you want them. Let me know. But my rails are not the same as yours (welded tabs.)

Ordered those as very expensive back ups, thanks. But, I am happy to report after much effort I have finally got it all sealed up again with these blue ones that I had "in stock". Definitely a tighter fit.

PXL_20220629_221342623.jpg


Even after they were installed it took a lot of tweaking to get it all aligned properly and leak free. At one point I was really close to walking away from it... something clicked so I stuck with it. I am just trying to figure out why my pressure transducer isn't responding now...

Reaction GIF by The Weather Channel
 
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I’ve found that using dish soap to lube the o-rings works good to seal them up if you get past the initial key on leak free. The dish soap makes it difficult to come apart though, but not impossible. And they still are reusable generally.

After priming the the rails let it sit for a couple of hours.

Good luck and apply liberally (like Preparation H)!
 
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I’ve found that using dish soap to lube the o-rings works good to seal them up if you get past the initial key on leak free. The dish soap makes it difficult to come apart though, but not impossible. And they still are reusable generally.

After priming the the rails let it sit for a couple of hours.

Good luck and apply liberally (like Preparation H)!

season 4 worry GIF


I was just using WD-40... it probably didn't help with the initial seal. But, key-on prime and pump on continuous seemed to go alright.

Got to move it back on the lift now to check for a suspension noise that also wasn't there last year.

LOL.
 
I thought you are supposed to use a light machine oil or motor oil to lube those O rings????
Ill guess that GM or Deka Siemens or Bosch have a prescribed lubricant for them, but......there are other items that work. I've found the dish detergent when washed away with gas makes the o-ring more than just a seal. It actually locks them into place. Perhaps there is an issue that might develop in the future because of it, but it is yet to cause an issue for anything I've put together using pump gas, C16 or E85.
 
Soooo... I got the car all buttoned back up, backed it out of the shop to let it get up to temp and confirm its functionality... then, it started to fart and misfire, puffing blue smoke and the O2s went dead (3mV constant). Dafuq? I never touched any of that...

After a bunch of noodle scratching and consulting of the "build bible" I found out that the relay for the O2s had cacked. Popped in a fresh one and she's good to go now. That was frustrating. This car doesn't seem to want to go out and play - FML.
 
'FML' - ?? Please pardon my ignorance :0

It's amazing how sht like this can fight us at times. One little thing is fine, but 5 little things, especially when random, almost seems like someone is messing with you.


What was the noise?
 
'FML' - ?? Please pardon my ignorance :0

It's amazing how sht like this can fight us at times. One little thing is fine, but 5 little things, especially when random, almost seems like someone is messing with you.


What was the noise?
FAK My Life
 
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