CruizinKev´s 1979 Monte Carlo

[kingcolbert83]

Nope, those won't fit your Monte. The Ford bolt pattern is different.

Couldn't he use adapters?

 

[Blake442]

I wouldn't, but it depends on the back spacing of the wheels.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

yeah okay I just forgot chevy had a different pattern 😉

...at the moment I'm thinking about a 350 engine - but you know I'm german and don't know much or let's say nothing about swapping from 305 to 350.. also thought about a manual/stick transmission.. what options I got?

The 305 and 350 are identical from the outside, so it's a remove and replace operation provided a few things are kept in mind. The biggest of which is that if you use a later engine with the one piece crank seal, you will need a different flexplate (flywheel), and the oil pan won't swap between right and left hand dipstick blocks, or from one piece to two piece crank seal blocks. All of it is really minor though, and can be solved quite easily. My car is a 1985 Oldsmobile Cutlass that started out with a Buick 231 V6 and now has a 1977 Chevy 350 from an old Pickup truck that was rebuilt to my specs. It is from before 1986, so it is a two piece seal engine, and before 1980 so it is a driver's side dipstick engine. If you looked at it, you'd swear it came from the factory that way unless you know to look for the dipstick location. Anyhow, ANY 350 will bolt in place of a 305 as long as you have a passenger car oil pan (from anything but a 1964-67 Chevy II) and the proper flywheel for the crank used. If it were me, I would get the later engine as the one piece rear main is less prone to leakage, and these engines also were usually equipped with a factory roller cam and the center bolt valve covers which seem to seal better.

 

[CruizinKev]

cool thx man 🙂

I still got a full vortech V2 s-trim kit laying here for my Mustang V6 (my daily). I just wanted to get rid of it but now let's me kinda thinking to put it on the MC:

what do you guys think? what do I need? brackets and pulleys? blow-trough carb?

 

[87LS/88SS]

I like the European tail lights with the amber lenses. They're obviously different than the domestic ones. I'm assuming the 81-88 Cutlass has something with an amber lens too? Looks like you're making progress! 8)

I was just about to ask him about his front and rear corners. My 79 is the exact same color, but the tail corners are red and the front are clear (or some what clear). Either way it looks like its coming along

 

[CruizinKev]

found a guy offering a LS1 and T56. I only got these 2 pics of it..

I'm still waiting for more pics/information of the engine bay.. what do you guys think? I'm kinda afraid if the engine is okay? afraid it took a direct hit on the crank pulley..

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

I would also look underneath to see if the driveshaft got driven into the transmission. If so, it could have wiped out the thrust bearing on the engine. As for if it is worth it or not, it all depends on the price. The LS1/6 speed is about as sweet as it gets for swap fodder in a G body. Nice combination of driveability and fuel economy coupled with performance. Other than that, I can't make a judgment without actually going over the car.

 

[custom442]

Brougham's correct. What you're looking for on a drivetrain that's been wrecked is mainly if the crank has been hit/moved. That's why you need to check for the driveshaft into the transmission.

Don't know about a manual, but too much pressure on the thrust bearing makes an automatic torque converter expand and pushes the crank forward. Same idea for the manual. I would also check the front of the engine - if the balancer and crank pulley looks out of place don't buy it.

 

[85 Cutlass Brougham]

Don't forget that on a manual, the input shaft pilot is inside the end of the crank. That's why it can hurt the block.

 

[Blake442]

Thouroughly inspect the front accessories for cracks in the castings, damage to the pulleys, or anything that looks out of alignment. Replacing all those pieces can get expensive quick.