Disk/Disk proportioning valve

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You can use the factory disc/drum proportioning valve but you would need an adjustable valve in the rear line.
I have Wilwood rear disc on my Monte and a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve knob style mounted to the frame just before the rear tire and the stock valve up front, what I like about this set up is you can adjust the lockup on the rears something you can't do on a factory style disc/disc valve. On my car with front runners I rely on the sticky rear tires to help stop me so I need the adjustability

wouldn't that still allow the 10 lbs of residual pressure to reach the rear disks?
 
The only possible problem I see changing out your stock disc/drum proportioning valve for the disc/disc one is if your stainless lines are already in place and if your replacement valve is not an exact physical match your current lines could end up being too short.or wrong angles etc.
 
The only possible problem I see changing out your stock disc/drum proportioning valve for the disc/disc one is if your stainless lines are already in place and if your replacement valve is not an exact physical match your current lines could end up being too short.or wrong angles etc.
The angles and mounting holes look correct but now ya got me wondering about the lines coming up a little short.
 
wouldn't that still allow the 10 lbs of residual pressure to reach the rear disks?
I don't know what the actual residual pressure is in the rear but when I bought my rear disc set up for my Moser 9" probably 15 years ago Wilwood recommended this set up with this proportioning valve over any other changes, they said it will reduce line pressure over 50%.
I do know that where the adjustment is now if my foot is not on the brake pedal the rear pads are retracted enough to were there is hardly any resistance changing them out.
Wilwood told me once I dialed in the setting they said I would be impressed with how well balanced it would stop and I am impressed.
Anytime I give someone a ride they always crap their pants thinking there is no way I can stop in that short a distance after going so fast.
The car proves them wrong everytime.
 
The angles and mounting holes look correct but now ya got me wondering about the lines coming up a little short.
Well, I just replaced the entire brake system on my project Regal and I bought a new brass proportioning valve that was a stock replacement it physically bolts in and the brake light switch mounts correctly but if I was going to use original lines the rear one would have been probably an inch too short but it did not matter to me since I was making all new lines out of cunifer tubing. I am not sure if there would have been any other issues with the rest of the lines but locations and angles looked about the same but stainless is not very forgiving.
 
When I converted my 1979 GrandPrix to 4 wheel disc I found a new brass proportioning combination valve PV4 on e-bay. It was $28.00 dollars. Works like a charm. It fits directly in place of the oringinal valve
 
Well, I just replaced the entire brake system on my project Regal and I bought a new brass proportioning valve that was a stock replacement it physically bolts in and the brake light switch mounts correctly but if I was going to use original lines the rear one would have been probably an inch too short but it did not matter to me since I was making all new lines out of cunifer tubing. I am not sure if there would have been any other issues with the rest of the lines but locations and angles looked about the same but stainless is not very forgiving.
If the rear line does come up an inch or so short i think i might be able to squeeze an extra jnch out of it. There seemed to be a little bit "extra" length around the bend near the crossmember.
 
I don't know what the actual residual pressure is in the rear but when I bought my rear disc set up for my Moser 9" probably 15 years ago Wilwood recommended this set up with this proportioning valve over any other changes, they said it will reduce line pressure over 50%.
I do know that where the adjustment is now if my foot is not on the brake pedal the rear pads are retracted enough to were there is hardly any resistance changing them out.
Wilwood told me once I dialed in the setting they said I would be impressed with how well balanced it would stop and I am impressed.
Anytime I give someone a ride they always crap their pants thinking there is no way I can stop in that short a distance after going so fast.
The car proves them wrong everytime.

I didn't think what would work cause the 10 lbs valve would have the same effect even if the line was partially blocked. It could be that set up with he willwood calipers was made to handle the drum valving. On our race cars we always used the 3 lbs valve to keep the pads close to the rotor and the driver had the brake bias knob to adjust the back brakes when needed. I bet you scared a few people with the speed of your car and you had the brakes to handle it. I would luv to take a ride in your car....
 
So the disk/disk should bring it back to a 70/30 feel? Or would that be done more through an adjustable valve?
 
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