Dr Olds Burnout Machine

[olds307 and 403]

Well this 350 has been running good except hot restarts, think I have the choke close to right, could be heat soak. The choke is fully opening and it takes a long crank and sometimes holding the gas pedal to the floor. I am running two thin Mr Gasket 4 hole carb base gaskets, both very thin on an iron manifold. I have the 4 hole phenolic 1" spacer that goes with the gasket, I just need longer bolts. I may notch the Metric thread mixture screws, can't find the proper head for my carb adjustment tool, they may be out of adjustment.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I have one of three issues going on, heat soak, excessive fuel pressure or leaking well plugs. What is the chance for heat soak in just above freezing temps? This should be one of the best carbs for leaking well plugs, supposedly the later the carb, the better. I can go with the Phonelic spacer but then more hot air choke, which I have grown fond of. Maybe I will gain a tiny bit of power? I may have to fill the carb full and leave it sit on paper towels and see if it leaks. The trans shifts OK but barely firm enough. I adjusted it properly on install but have used zip ties to increase line pressure, can actually feel the shifts now.

 

[1bad79]

You have a copy of cliff’s book right? he talks about taping the well plugs and threading a cut off bolt in them with some epoxy I think

 

[olds307 and 403]

Yeah, I had his book, destroyed in the flood. I pulled the Qjet off, no fast idle screw. I stole one off the 260 Dualjet. I used Permatex Cold Weld on the two visible well plugs. I also touched up gold paint on the motor. I am going to notch the mixture screws as well and install tomorrow.

 

[1bad79]

Yeah, I had his book, destroyed in the flood. I pulled the Qjet off, no fast idle screw. I stole one off the 260 Dualjet. I used Permatex Cold Weld on the two visible well plugs. I also touched up gold paint on the motor. I am going to notch the mixture screws as well and install tomorrow.

I have the book if you need info let me know I’ll email it to you

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I put it on, runs better. I used a good 1/4" thick open gasket, along with both thin 4 hole gaskets. Any taller and the hot air choke won't work without a new tube. I adjusted the mixture screws 5.5 turns out, found this to be close on these emissions carbs. I had to team the entrance to get socket on them. They are a hex head, a deep E Torx socket works the best. This thing seems to run better and better in the power department, nice and smooth.

 

[olds307 and 403]

Well, I think it is finally dialed in. I adjusted the choke coil one click tighter, mixture screws were at maximum rpm where I guessed. I have the fast idle at 1200 to 1300 rpm and the curb idle a bit over 1000 rpm in park. It runs smooth and noticeably more power than the 260, probably similar mileage with amazing oil pressure for its age, never goes below 20 psi. I wonder how it will do with just a 5 or 10W30, which is what is may get, just to decide if Royal Purple HMX SL rated 5W30 is a good choice. Looks like gaskets were done at some point, may give it a shot.

 

[olds307 and 403]

The good news, the 73 350 in the 88 runs great, many burnouts. The bad news, the rad needs replacement. The fans do cool the car quicker with the GN rad surround flaps. The really bad is the brakes. One of the brake lines came very close to the Sanderson collectors. I noticed a soft pedal, gradually getting worse. Yes, a wet spot on the frame, the line wore through. Everything has been really frustrating lately, it will be a while till the line is fixed, thinking a Spectra CU161 copy A body plastic rad, I already trimmed the cradle.

 

[1320John$$$]

Video or pictures of the burnouts or didn’t happen

 

[olds307 and 403]

Oh, it happened. The more I run this motor, the better it runs. Try putting in a 47 year old brand "C" motor from that era, never went well from what I saw.