You were given a recommendation. I guess you totally disregarded it. I suppose that's what he means. I would choose Everyday Performance over those two companies any day, but that's me. You were steered in the right direction.
Edelbrock carb with 200-4r Transmission
- Thread starter cbenson
- Start date
- Status
I guess during these crazy times we don't know who's working and open for business and who isn't.
Good luck with whoever you choose.
Good luck with whoever you choose.
I have also considered that they might be closed for the weekend so I will give it a few more days before I just jump somewhere else,,,I just always like to have a back up plan so that is why I asked about the other two places.just getting what everyone thinks before I buy something.
techg8 who runs Everyday Performance is a member here, Turna posted a link via his name to direct message him.
Now lets bust out that popcorn. Here's some to share...
Now lets bust out that popcorn. Here's some to share...
Have the 650 version of the Holley Spreadbore and plan on returning it to my motor. it does bolt onto the factory manifold and the stock bracket for both the throttle and TV cable lined right up. The only tweak that I had to futz with was the tension on the TV cable but the ratchet that controls that adjustment is right there on the cable housing in the bracket Think I also had to make an adaptor to bolt the throttle end to the lever on the carb but had one already in hand due to another swap job so used it.
The Holley did not come with a TPS sensor or anything like that meaning if you plan to keep your computer driven distributor you will have to give some thought to how it will communicate with the brain box to receive throttle position information. That is where the comment about swapping distributors above comes in. You can keep your existing distributor but will have to invade its guts to make it think for itself; one item to change being the vacuum advance which in the computer controlled units is more of a joke than a functioning component.
In my old configuration I stuck with the stock vacuum unit to save money and labor and I should have bit the bullet and pulled the timer to deal with it. The reason I specify removing the timer is that, to extract the old advance unit and plug an better one in, you have to pretty much nuts and bolts the unit by first removing the roll pin that holds the drive gear to the shaft and then extracting the complete shaft assembly to gain access to the reluctor assembly. Three small bolts 8mm head, hold it in place and you take it out. That gets you to the cup that has the tab on it that hooks to the rod on the vacuum advance, and NO you can't just pry on the tab to raise it to get room to yank the rod out. The cup is held in place by a circlip, nothing fancy, small screw driver or pick will remove it. Clean all the old crud and grease out of whatever and then assembly is the reverse of teardown. DO be stingy with any lube that you do use. The cup has to move back and forth freely but you are not greasing trailer bearings here. I used #2 Red Sticky Grease as a personal preference. Don't forget that little circlip or it will come back to frustrate you.
If you hold the computer vacuum advance unit up beside one that is older or aftermarket, you should find that the slot in which the rod is located is longer. That allows a greater amount of advance to occur, depending on how much vacuum the engine is pulling. The computer driven versions were highly limited as to how much vacuum signal they could make use of. Talk to the engineers who designed the whole lashup; think most of it was to placate the morons in the EPA Should of known you can't fix stupid or placate idiots. (Actually you can placate or pacify an idiot but the how and with what is not a topic for consideration by these forums, I think.....)
If you want to short circuit the whole business, hit Jegs or Summit or maybe Rock Auto and score a Mallory or MSD distributor instead. Worth the investment.
PS: No I have not forgot the pictures. our grand Panjandrum has posted that full pics being uploaded may result in issues. Have not seen a post stating that the glitch has been rectified so waiting a bit before trying to do another pictorial; also have a few more in the current series to take and save to file.)
Nick
The Holley did not come with a TPS sensor or anything like that meaning if you plan to keep your computer driven distributor you will have to give some thought to how it will communicate with the brain box to receive throttle position information. That is where the comment about swapping distributors above comes in. You can keep your existing distributor but will have to invade its guts to make it think for itself; one item to change being the vacuum advance which in the computer controlled units is more of a joke than a functioning component.
In my old configuration I stuck with the stock vacuum unit to save money and labor and I should have bit the bullet and pulled the timer to deal with it. The reason I specify removing the timer is that, to extract the old advance unit and plug an better one in, you have to pretty much nuts and bolts the unit by first removing the roll pin that holds the drive gear to the shaft and then extracting the complete shaft assembly to gain access to the reluctor assembly. Three small bolts 8mm head, hold it in place and you take it out. That gets you to the cup that has the tab on it that hooks to the rod on the vacuum advance, and NO you can't just pry on the tab to raise it to get room to yank the rod out. The cup is held in place by a circlip, nothing fancy, small screw driver or pick will remove it. Clean all the old crud and grease out of whatever and then assembly is the reverse of teardown. DO be stingy with any lube that you do use. The cup has to move back and forth freely but you are not greasing trailer bearings here. I used #2 Red Sticky Grease as a personal preference. Don't forget that little circlip or it will come back to frustrate you.
If you hold the computer vacuum advance unit up beside one that is older or aftermarket, you should find that the slot in which the rod is located is longer. That allows a greater amount of advance to occur, depending on how much vacuum the engine is pulling. The computer driven versions were highly limited as to how much vacuum signal they could make use of. Talk to the engineers who designed the whole lashup; think most of it was to placate the morons in the EPA Should of known you can't fix stupid or placate idiots. (Actually you can placate or pacify an idiot but the how and with what is not a topic for consideration by these forums, I think.....)
If you want to short circuit the whole business, hit Jegs or Summit or maybe Rock Auto and score a Mallory or MSD distributor instead. Worth the investment.
PS: No I have not forgot the pictures. our grand Panjandrum has posted that full pics being uploaded may result in issues. Have not seen a post stating that the glitch has been rectified so waiting a bit before trying to do another pictorial; also have a few more in the current series to take and save to file.)
Nick
I did, haven't heard back yettechg8 who runs Everyday Performance is a member here, Turna posted a link via his name to direct message him.
Now lets bust out that popcorn. Here's some to share...
FWIW, some of the "carb rebuilders" that are doing business are like any other remanufacturer, and take incoming cores apart, and put the pieces in with pieces from many other carbs. Which means that when it is reassembled, parts from the "pile" are assembled, and may or may not be correct for that carburetor/application. While they may function, they may or may not be at an optimum level of performance.
By using a source like those referenced in this thread, you are getting a carburetor of known quality, rather than a blind-test rebuild.
One closing thought, if one is going to use an older car for a daily driver (and I have, for MANY MANY years), you have to accept that a quick off-the-shelf solution may not be available. This is where experience and good resources become invaluable.
By using a source like those referenced in this thread, you are getting a carburetor of known quality, rather than a blind-test rebuild.
One closing thought, if one is going to use an older car for a daily driver (and I have, for MANY MANY years), you have to accept that a quick off-the-shelf solution may not be available. This is where experience and good resources become invaluable.
- Status
Similar threads
