DRIVEN said:
yes yes! show us who are not machinists how a block is decked, bored, honed, all that good stuff. it'd make for a great sticky for this section.
Engine block machining.
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yes yes! show us who are not machinists how a block is decked, bored, honed, all that good stuff. it'd make for a great sticky for this section.
Never thought of that. It would be tricky trying to hide my phone from my instructor with oil soaked hands though :lol:G_Body_Enthusiast said:
Either way it will be a few weeks before I get it in shop, if I can.
Why would that be a problem? Are you not allowed to take pics of the work you do? I would think they would encourage pride in workmanship.
They are pretty strict on the no cellphone policies. Especially while operating tens of thousands of dollars of machinery that can hurt someone if they are distracted.DRIVEN said:
Maybe ask the instructor ahead of time if a buddy can take them while you focus on the work? I don't know. It'd be cool to see though.
If you want to strengthen up your block you can always buy some aftermarket caps and do the install/line honing at school.
I used Milodon splayed caps on my first 496 build with ARP studs, I would say that would be far stronger than a typical 4 bolt main BBC.
I did the 3 middle caps and the front cap(did have to clearance the oil pan a little for the front)
I used Milodon splayed caps on my first 496 build with ARP studs, I would say that would be far stronger than a typical 4 bolt main BBC.
I did the 3 middle caps and the front cap(did have to clearance the oil pan a little for the front)
Do you think the factory 2 bolt mains with ARP studs would be good on a 496 stroker engine? Im not gonna rev it to the moon probably 6000 max because I dont have the money to do this again.565bbchevy said:
you could also use a girdle, thats what I got in mine...think about this, all factory small block fords have 2 bolt mains. Those mustang guys turbo and nitrous the hell out of those engines and rev the crap out of them. Look at Oldsmobile engines all 2 bolt mains. I think youd be fine.-83MONTESS- said:
hurst1979olds said:
A 2 bolt main big block chevy will take plenty of power and work fine for your application.
I only suggested the splayed caps being added to your 2 bolt main block since you seemed enticed by the 4 bolt main block and since you can do your own machine work doing the a 2 to 4 bolt conversion would be cheaper than buying the other block and splayed caps are much stronger than a standard factory 4 bolt main since the outside bolts pull from the side of the block and not the main webbing.
I personally like to build bulletproof engines and if you decided to go with a power adder then I think it would be beneficial to have the added strength.
I wouldn't waste time with a girdle, the only girdles that will actually increase strength in a BBC would have to tie into the oil pan rail which also moves the oil pan further from the block and takes a lot time to shim in place plus you have to seal the girdle to the block and then seal the pan to the girdle. The standard girdles work well in many applications just not this one.
i say bore it your self. in class i just started lathe boring and it's the easiest machining practice. depending on the year of the block you can also look into straightening the cylinders because in the earlier production years tolerances were less strict so boring bakes the block's cylinders straight if I recall what my teacher said correctly.
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