I just got off the phone with Warren, he is going to post up a quick video for you, to show you not to worry, it can be done by just you, no help... just dive right in easier than it seems, take your time, take breaks when you get frustrated and jump right back at it... i sent him this threads link...
Engine Removal How-To?
- Thread starter CityW42
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I don't know about you guys, but in my younger days on a 72 camaro, we unbolted the trans, removed the three flywheel-torque converter bolts by turning the motor and then pulled it w/o the trans attached. We supported the trans with a jack or whatever we could find.. Keep in mind we weren't doing anything to the transmission so no need to pull it.
Comes out alot easier and no worries about messin with the clearance when lifting the motor/trans or having to plug the transmission yoke.
There wasn't much room between the firewall and transmission, but it was well worth the effort. I haven't done a G-body, but I'd imagine there would be more room on the back side of the motor than a Camaro.
Comes out alot easier and no worries about messin with the clearance when lifting the motor/trans or having to plug the transmission yoke.
There wasn't much room between the firewall and transmission, but it was well worth the effort. I haven't done a G-body, but I'd imagine there would be more room on the back side of the motor than a Camaro.
I wouldn't pull the trans either if it doesn't need to come out. The only thing that's a pain is getting to the driver's side bell housing bolts. The remedy to avoid cutting your knuckles is to remove the protruding sheet metal screws that secure the accelerator pedal from the inside. A 30" extension and a u-joint makes life easier for removing the bell housing bolts from underneath too.
There's a million ways to skin a cat. You just have to find your own preferred method of doing it. Some cases call for a wrench, sometimes I can get away with a 1/4" drive ratchet from up top.
There's a million ways to skin a cat. You just have to find your own preferred method of doing it. Some cases call for a wrench, sometimes I can get away with a 1/4" drive ratchet from up top.
Might be extra steps but it makes a world of a difference! Remove you whole front clip. Might take you a hour tops, also the bumper. Then you can take the whole engine with transmission out and it will be super easy to realign the engine back in to bolt the motor mounts. I rather do this then struggle 2 hours and hoping not to crush my hand. And you can leave your hood on for shade :lol:
A trick for lining up the hood I learned from a friend years ago:
Before you do anything, drill a small (say 1/4") hole from the bottom, through the hinge and hood (on the mounting point, and don't go through the top lol). Then when you put it back on. You just gotta line up those holes (do one on eash side), stick a 1/4" bit in eash one, and tighten the bolts.
Before you do anything, drill a small (say 1/4") hole from the bottom, through the hinge and hood (on the mounting point, and don't go through the top lol). Then when you put it back on. You just gotta line up those holes (do one on eash side), stick a 1/4" bit in eash one, and tighten the bolts.
just keep your bolts and anyhting taken off some where easy to look on too. i use a small table with sides on it so small stuff doesn't slide off. if it's and awkward bolt that is easy to forgot where it goes label it with masking tape. makes things easier on install especially if it is your first time doing this.
Also if you have alot of accessory brackets try to keep them connected to one of the accessory's if possible. it takes more guess work out of install. I normally will put bolts or nuts back in the holes if possible when the part has been removed.
keep tools organized as possible, it's hard when you can't find your only 14mm wrench.
have two or three people there to watch both sides if this is your first time pulling out an engine. get you self some good prybars. some things need persuasion...
good luck
Also if you have alot of accessory brackets try to keep them connected to one of the accessory's if possible. it takes more guess work out of install. I normally will put bolts or nuts back in the holes if possible when the part has been removed.
keep tools organized as possible, it's hard when you can't find your only 14mm wrench.
have two or three people there to watch both sides if this is your first time pulling out an engine. get you self some good prybars. some things need persuasion...
good luck
Black Sheep said:Seriously, guys? You'd rather mark the hood, unbolt and remove it (which takes 2 people), put it somewhere and hope nothing hits it, then spend the time to line it back up when done, instead of unbolting 2 bolts and propping it up vertically?
I guess i've been doing things by myself too long
I'm with you... It doesn't get much easier than this...
If all you other guys like doing extra work so much, come on over to my place and help me finish the Buick! :lol:
Thanks for all the tips guys. This isn't our first engine pull, but I know some tips always make the job easier when you know them in advance.
I think I may pull the front clip off, I've done it before many times and find it super easy to get everything back in.
I think I may pull the front clip off, I've done it before many times and find it super easy to get everything back in.
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