Engine Swaps? What's the real story?

[Tuggy24g]

Well I did an engine swap here in pa and actually talked to the PA DMV to make sure what the law were. I took out my shitty 305 and put in a 402 big block (I know it is not the best big block, but it is better then most engines.) The DMV told me that I did not need any emission parts from my old engine on my new engine. The only thing is I have to register it as an old car and can not drive it more then 5000 miles a year. Another option they said was to register it as an antique and you can only drive it to on the weekends to like car shows. It has to be mint and have no rust. You would then send them a picture of it so they can see that it is mint. I am not sure about miles, but it was a lot lower.

That is how I got through emission testing in PA and my mechanic also check on his own when we did are engine swap. There are some thing you still need like a catalytic converter and a muffler. Other then that here in pa you should be good to go.

 

[dogsht]

I stand corrected.. sort of. Yes I know the frame itself is not that strong or rigid. It the gbody is however a strong or good platform to build a fast street car, g-machine, hot rod, drag car etc on even to fit and hold a large torquey engine. Which was really my point (even though I did not state it well) including the fact that they will readily swallow a large variety of engines and even a few good transmission choices, rear end choices, even just the fact that its RWD. (Compare this to a FWD economy car or the expense/work of doing some of the early mid 60s or 70s cars) The needed additional support to withstand the torque of large torquey engine is as someone mentioned cheap & easy to do.

 

[3XBrownCutty]

In PA if you register your car under the "collector" status, no emissions are needed, but the car does need to look stock. Hence the collector idea. Thats what I'm gonna do if i can't get it through regularly.

 

[svltrack]

... and I simply will not slig sh*t online.

Funny, because I'm not the one using four letter words. Reasonable, intelligent people should be able to have a discussion without resorting to profanity. I'm simply quoting the law.

If you are going to talk smack then do it right. The word "sh*t" was the correct one for what I was saying. I do not need you telling me about the law, emissions tests, how to use the english language or anything else. Keep your personal opinion to yourself or I promise you that I will make you feel like the biggest jackass since obama.

 

[joe_padavano]

That is how I got through emission testing in PA and my mechanic also check on his own when we did are engine swap. There are some thing you still need like a catalytic converter and a muffler. Other then that here in pa you should be good to go.

Yes, classic/antique registration usually gets you out of emissions (and in some places safety) inspections, but as you noted, there are mileage restrictions. There are likely model year restrictions as well. Your insurance company may also have some restrictions if you go with antique plates. Of course, the eligibility requirements are a state-by-state thing and will vary. The original question was about a normal registration, but this is one loophole.

 

[beeterolds]

... and I simply will not slig sh*t online.

Funny, because I'm not the one using four letter words. Reasonable, intelligent people should be able to have a discussion without resorting to profanity. I'm simply quoting the law.

Joe, you cant even tell the truth anymore or lay the facts down on the table without getting your face burned off! Some ppl just need to reexamine their state/county emissions laws better

Hey if it makes you guys feel better.. my 10.0 403 passed smog sniffer test in Ohio WAYYY better than the old 3.8 ever did.. and i did it only with a Converter and a Pcv valve and proper tuning... i have the inspection papers to prove it too 😉

 

[69hurstolds]

Way to go, Joe. Muck up the discussion with FACTS...God Forbid... 😀

 

[DrRansom442]

I like Missouri, if your vehicle is older than 1995, you have no emmisions 😀 . I'm getting historic plates when I finish the car anyway, so no safety inspections either. Which mean 3in all the way back with X pipe and race mufflers and no state interference! Sorry, don't mean to gloat .

I'd look into this just a tad deeper. Yes, you can qualify for historic plates .... but do you ever plan on actually DRIVING your car any place? The mileage restrictions for historic plates are insane and they require you to log your trips. Yes, you do not have to have a test run on your car 95 and older but Missouri added a visual inspection of emmissions componentry into your safety. Trust me this was a wee bit of a shocker for me. Given my exhaust. Hedman headers, no cats and a lack of ANY emmissions components .... number 4 heads ensure I have no means to hook up A.I.R. tubes. I will be forced to get a blackmarket safety just to put plates onto my 81.

 

[DrRansom442]

As far as Joe P's advice .... Joe usually don't offer advice unless he KNOWS. I've never seen him "corrected" and have found that he has an extensive knowledge (especially in all things Olds). I must also say that what Joe has said about an engine being "certified" for a chassis has been my experiences here in Missouri. newer engines certified for that car are good but not the transverse. I couldn't just drop the '78 350 in my '81 (originally a 260 car) and expect that to be hunky dory, if brought up, it's an INSTANT safety inspection failure (not to mention all the missing emmission's crap). Perhaps PA is a tad more lenyant .... certainly more so than California - which correct me if I am wrong - the OP is from there and NOT Pennsylvania! So PA state laws do not apply to CA.

 

[joe_padavano]

Hey if it makes you guys feel better.. my 10.0 403 passed smog sniffer test in Ohio WAYYY better than the old 3.8 ever did.. and i did it only with a Converter and a Pcv valve and proper tuning... i have the inspection papers to prove it too 😉

Yeah, but the problem is that the spot check sniffer test that states do is just that - a spot check. It only checks emissions at one or two RPM points. The federal EPA certification process covers a wide range of operating conditions and takes weeks to complete. Clearly that isn't practical for bi-annual inspections. The sniffer test, combined with the visual inspection, is intended to be a compromise between a thorough inspection and convenience. The philosophy is that if the car passes the sniffer at a limited number of test points AND the required equipment is connected and appears to be functioning, then there's a reasonable chance that the car is clean enough under all operating conditions.

Again, there is a big difference between the letter of the law and the real world. The law is well documented - you certainly shouldn't believe me, you should read it for yourself. As I also noted previously, there is federal law and state law. They don't always match, so AGAIN, do your homework. Finally, as I have also noted, the real world aspect of testing depends on humans who usually DON'T understand the details of engine swaps and almost certainly don't know how to check casting numbers. All they know is that when they punch a VIN into the test computer, it spits out a list of what equipment should be in place. Can you get something past these guys? Almost certainly. It's the "almost" part that should concern you. If the swap does get discovered, there is no exemption and no limit to how much you are required to spend to return the car to compliance. You will always hear anecdotal "evidence" from someone who has gotten something past emissions. That doesn't mean it will pass the next time or that yours will pass.

With that, I'm done with this thread. Good luck with your swaps.