Equipping a G-Body with a manual trans

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Very informative thread, Darren.
Thanks to the rest of you guys for contributing to this thread. This will be very helpful to the guys that want to convert to stick.

Jack 🙂
 
Phoenyx said:
The only issue I had was that the shifter linkage was rubbing on the transmission tunnel. So I had to pound it a bit with a hammer.
That's why the fork has a curve to it, because the tunnel is so tight.

Reference picture joey_schel posted a link to:
CruiseHoleDimsjpg_Thumbnail1.jpg


Also, joey, I'm assuming that's for a 1-piece rms block? The two flywheels I posted above would be fine for an older Muncie, etc. What's the differece between those and the one you posted?
 
What a terrific topic, very informative. Let me add that I swapped all the linkage parts from an 81' Malibu 3 speed manual into an 83' Bonneville wagon to make a Pontiac 301 4 speed manual. However where the Chevy needed the curved clutch fork, I was able to use a regular BOP bellhouseing with a straight Firebird clutch fork. It cleared the floorboards perfectly. I tried to use Firebird shifter, rods, and mount but it located the shifter handle too far to the rear. It would never work with a bench seat and the console was difficult to fit. I went back to the standard center mounted set up which locates the shifter right up by the dashboard and the console fits better.Here's the shot with the shifter up front and you can see the tailhouseing mounts that I wasn't happy with.
PB220037-1.jpg
The shifter in the picture is a 68' Camaro/Firebird model (#3914340) which has a 3" offset so this 77' Firebird console fit nicely.
PB260048.jpg
 
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Doober said:
Also, joey, I'm assuming that's for a 1-piece rms block? The two flywheels I posted above would be fine for an older Muncie, etc. What's the differece between those and the one you posted?

No, you need the flywheel i've shown for a 2 pc rear main seal block (they're internally balanced).. The flywheel i got with the t-56 was for a 1 pc LT1(externally balanced).
 
Ok, so far what I'd gathered is it wasn't a specialty part, unless the bolt pattern for the clutch differs from a standard 1 piece rms, which is what I discovered. This one I'm willing to bet is a little less pricey ($58 + $100 core). I'm still not quite sure what the major difference is between a Gen I & Gen II flywheel is, looks like the clutch would still bolt up the same.
 
And Bonnewagon you've answered my question without me even asking 8) I picked up a GP dash for the Malibu and was trying to figure out what console would do good to house a 4-speed shifter. I had the F-Body one in mind but was looking for pictures of a 2nd gen. one.
 
Glad to help, Doober. Just be aware that it LOOKS nice but took a LOT of fabricating to get it just right. The second gen mounts up under the dash and that part of the console and map pocket had to be cut away to fit under the dash. It was shortened by about 2" and the dash's ash tray was deleted. Also one of the rear mounts under the glove box part ended up hitting exactly on the strengthening rib that is in the G-body floor. The console has 2 mounting plates riveted inside and the front one had to be deleted so the sides would spread out to fit over the rib on the transmission hump.I relocated the front mount back to the rear and fabbed a bracket that I welded to the floor to mount the rear part of the console. The plastic shifter bezel is actually holding up the front of the console and pressing up against the dash so tightly, it keeps it all in place with only the 2 screws under the glove box holding the whole thing tight. A lot of work but worth it and this is with the correct forward mounted shifter. With the Firebird shifter mounted at the end of the tailhousing, the console went right in by just fabbing 2 brackets for the 2 under glove box mounts and 2 tabs up front that went down to the floor. However with the rear mounted shifter, the tunnel is it too narrow and the rods hit the floorpan as well as the speedometer cable being right in the way. Here's a pic with the unmolested console and with the rear mounted shifter.
P9300009-1.jpg
Now compare the same console hacked up to fit the forward stock location mounted shifter. Luckilly all I use the map pocket for is mounting my power seat switch.
PB260046.jpg
 
I think I may have some fun ahead of me if you're using an F-Body shifter that sets farther back, I'm using a G-Body Hurst setup on the Saginaw right now, but the same shifter body is used for the T-10 in a late 2nd-gen F-Body, just needs the correct bracket/rods.
 
No, the hack job on the console was with the A/G body mount, it sits close to the dash. It's a Hurst on a Saginaw and works great, but I sacrificed that console. The shifter is a 68' F-body unit. The rear mount Firebird shifter and rods were the problem-no tunnel clearance. The console didn't need to be cut with the rear mount, it fit with minor bracket fabrication, but the damn rods rattled like crazy against the body even after I massaged the tunnel with a sledge and even cut a little pocket for the 3-4 rod. The crummy crossmember and joke of a transmission mount contributed to the shifter shaking around. I have a G-force crossmember as well as a modified stock crossmember, one of which will go in eventually as both locate the transmission mount so I can use the Energy Suspension poly mount. But FWIW the stock A/B body mount does not rattle or touch any metal at all, that 6" difference means a lot.
 
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bonne..I'm jealous of that console you have, you have it fitting like it was made for your car. Unfortunately with a T5 the shifter sits further back so that console wouldn't fit...I just parked my car last nite for the winter... 😢
 
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