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Gig

Apprentice
Feb 5, 2020
52
52
18
San Antonio
How I would do a N/A 5.3 in a G-Body:
  • 220ish duration cam
  • Matching valve springs
  • Corvette intake and injectors
  • ICT Billet brackets for truck accessories with alternator high on driver's side and compressor high on the passenger side
  • Holley mounts, oil pan, transmission crossmember, headers and exhaust
  • Gen III engine and PCM for drive by cable throttle
  • 4L80E with Transgo shift kit
  • 3600-3700 stall speed converter
  • 3.73 rear gears with 26" tire
2900 RPM at 80mph. 9.25:1 final drive ratio in 1st gear. Should be roughly 400 HP with a good tune. Nice fun cruiser. More power and you should probably get serious about beefing up the frame. Not the cheapest way to do it for sure but will look good when you open the hood and will run very well.
Thanks for pointing me in the right direction. Gig
 

Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,132
113
NW Indiana
How I would do a N/A 5.3 in a G-Body:
  • 220ish duration cam
  • Matching valve springs
  • Corvette intake and injectors
  • ICT Billet brackets for truck accessories with alternator high on driver's side and compressor high on the passenger side
  • Holley mounts, oil pan, transmission crossmember, headers and exhaust
  • Gen III engine and PCM for drive by cable throttle
  • 4L80E with Transgo shift kit
  • 3600-3700 stall speed converter
  • 3.73 rear gears with 26" tire
2900 RPM at 80mph. 9.25:1 final drive ratio in 1st gear. Should be roughly 400 HP with a good tune. Nice fun cruiser. More power and you should probably get serious about beefing up the frame. Not the cheapest way to do it for sure but will look good when you open the hood and will run very well.
That's a lot of converter for such a mild duration cam.... No ????
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,697
113
Spring, Texas
That's a lot of converter for such a mild duration cam.... No ????
Maybe for the weight of a G-body. In my 08 RCSB Sierra I have a 5.3 with a similar duration cam, that stall speed, 4.10 gears and 32" tall tires. I figured trade the 4.10 for the 3.42 and the 32" tires for 26" and it would be pretty similar. The high stall speed makes my combination. A 5.3 is not a torque-machine. Even with a small cam, you need steeper gears and a high stall speed. That way you're up in the power band of the cam. It's very streetable in my view.
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
6,057
22,811
113
Louisville, KY
Maybe for the weight of a G-body. In my 08 RCSB Sierra I have a 5.3 with a similar duration cam, that stall speed, 4.10 gears and 32" tall tires. I figured trade the 4.10 for the 3.42 and the 32" tires for 26" and it would be pretty similar. The high stall speed makes my combination. A 5.3 is not a torque-machine. Even with a small cam, you need steeper gears and a high stall speed. That way you're up in the power band of the cam. It's very streetable in my view.
My cam and converter is real close to that in the 4L80 in the Cutlass. So far it seems dead right on the street but I haven't gone above maybe 50mph yet....still need to program my speedo.
 
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64nailhead

Goat Herder
Dec 1, 2014
5,710
1
12,219
113
Upstate NY
How I would do a N/A 5.3 in a G-Body:
  • 220ish duration cam
  • Matching valve springs
  • Corvette intake and injectors
  • ICT Billet brackets for truck accessories with alternator high on driver's side and compressor high on the passenger side
  • Holley mounts, oil pan, transmission crossmember, headers and exhaust
  • Gen III engine and PCM for drive by cable throttle
  • 4L80E with Transgo shift kit
  • 3600-3700 stall speed converter
  • 3.73 rear gears with 26" tire
2900 RPM at 80mph. 9.25:1 final drive ratio in 1st gear. Should be roughly 400 HP with a good tune. Nice fun cruiser. More power and you should probably get serious about beefing up the frame. Not the cheapest way to do it for sure but will look good when you open the hood and will run very well.

Only one item left out, for the fun moments : the plate behind the throttle body connected to the can of laughing gas in the trunk.

That is a very solid list for some street fun - guaranteed to work and on the cheap, other than the electronics. You have to pay somewhere ;)
 
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Texas82GP

Just-a-worm
Apr 3, 2015
7,989
18,697
113
Spring, Texas
That's a lot of converter for such a mild duration cam.... No ????
It's also important to consider all converters aren't the same. If you go with something quality like FTI or Circle D you should be fine. I went a notch or two larger in diameter than the smallest one Circle D offered (in the thread on my truck in my sig) and that helps. It takes a little getting used to if you come out of something stock but it is fun. I had a 3200 stall with the 4L65E (before the 4L85E swap) and it was too tight. It was a bit doggy. I didn't even know it until I put the current setup in.
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,132
113
NW Indiana
All interesting information. I know that a converter will flash differently behind a big block as opposed to a small block. It's like voodoo to me. Now with my cam at 223/230 duration at .050 the manufacturer said stock stall was ok. A little higher was better so mine is rated at 2400-2600. 3.50 gear. All information was given when had my transmission and convertor done.
 
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Northernregal

Sloppy McRodbender
Oct 24, 2017
3,359
12,828
113
Red Deer, Northern Montana territory
All interesting information. I know that a converter will flash differently behind a big block as opposed to a small block. It's like voodoo to me. Now with my cam at 223/230 duration at .050 the manufacturer said stock stall was ok. A little higher was better so mine is rated at 2400-2600. 3.50 gear. All information was given when had my transmission and convertor done.

I am on a 226/231 cam and a 3200 stall in the 4L80. Before the turbo it was 3.90's and 28" tires, and it was quick.

Stock would work, but when it flashes it goes up to when the torque is really climbing to the fun place, so it "seems" quicker because you go right to bigger power numbers.
 
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Tony1968

Royal Smart Person
Supporting Member
Jul 1, 2018
2,324
5,132
113
NW Indiana
I am on a 226/231 cam and a 3200 stall in the 4L80. Before the turbo it was 3.90's and 28" tires, and it was quick.

Stock would work, but when it flashes it goes up to when the torque is really climbing to the fun place, so it "seems" quicker because you go right to bigger power numbers.
I understand that totally. The issues I see with a higher stall as recommended earlier is the amount of slippage at cruising speeds. This creates more heat obviously and we all know what heat means for trannies. Anyway I would be fine with something higher on a more 'fun' type of car. Just not for me. I've been there at the ragged edge of street ability. Big cam tall gears dumped 3.5 inch exhaust. To each his own though.
 
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Injectedcutty

G body LS mafia
Nov 24, 2014
6,057
22,811
113
Louisville, KY
All interesting information. I know that a converter will flash differently behind a big block as opposed to a small block. It's like voodoo to me. Now with my cam at 223/230 duration at .050 the manufacturer said stock stall was ok. A little higher was better so mine is rated at 2400-2600. 3.50 gear. All information was given when had my transmission and convertor done.
My cam is spec'd at 215/219 @ .050 but lift is 613/590 with a powerband of 1800-6200 rpm. I have a custom spec'd billet converter from FTI that flashes at 3,400. With the 80E it doesn't at all feel like a high stall, even with 3:73's out back.
 
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