F41 and aftermarket bracing diagrams (MORE pics added)

Mount the bars that go from the cradle to the frame horns underneath the bar thats already there. You might be able to get away with the stock fasteners, but I've seen it done by adding some washers.
 
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Thanks will try it out. Love the Cutlass i wish i had the space to pick up the Hurst i got the trans out of. 😢 But i will try to get my GP up and running soon..
 
i think a great idea would be to post pics of these bracings installed on cars.
would be extremely helpful.

i haven't torn into my car, but has factory F41 and T-tops. so i imagine it would have most.
 
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I used the biggest bolt I could fit through the existing hole in the frame, and made spacers from a Ford alternator spacer to make the F41 bars clear the GP brace on my Malibu wagon.

I have the F41 bars, GP brace, radiator X braces, core support to fender braces, Monte SS bars front and rear on the Malibu, really helped out the car, the KYBs were also a big improvement. Replacing the tired springs would be even better.

The Bonnebu came with the radiator X, F41 bars, core support to fender braces already on it.

I think the differnce in what car got what brace was in large part determined by the market it was being sold to. The chevrolets got almost nothing, Olds got some, Pontiacs got more, and the Buicks got the most, all tempered by option content. The "sportier" the car, the more it got within a given make. Buicks got better stuff because Buick buyers typically wanted a car with little NVH, whereas a Chevy buyer was buying the least expensive make, so they got jack unless they ordered F41 or a performance model. Seem to be a lot of Cutlasses go through the yard with F&R sway bars, though.
 
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Here is a link I posted on here somewhere already, might be "sticky" worthy along with my diagrams?

http://www.geocities.com/jfon101231/brace.html

I just added the "GP" brace to the wagon. Kinda lost my mind for a moment and painted it and the jounce bars, gloss sun yellow.
Kinda like it and when the air dam is put on it is hard to see anyway.

The "J" bars and "GP" were not designed to work together.

I got a 1/2" grade 8 bolt (maybe 2" long) and dropped it in with a thick lock washer.

Mounted the J bars to the cradle by 2 threads with stock bolt and lock washer.

Slid the ends on the 1/2 bolts and put on a grade 8 nylock washer agian by 2 threads.

Now that they were in place I removed one nut, installed one end of the GP brace and reinstalled the nut (just 2 threads again) but with a flat washer this time, repeated on the other side.

I slowly walked the GP brace up a turn at a time working from side to side.

One it hit the jounce bars, the cradle bolts were tightened.

I then hit the nylock with an impact gun, it pulled the ends together real nice.
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It did help the car also. I notice it more when braking/turning over bumps, feels more solid and I don't get as much vibration threw the steering wheel.
 
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I tried a quick mock up of something like that a while back.

It can't mount behind the swaybar because of the idler/pitman arms interfere.

If you mount it in front, it could be made to work ,but then you could not use the jounce bars, they hit. So you would have to make/modify the jounce bars.


If you are going to all that trouble just buy a premade one from Marcus.

http://www.scandc.com/chassisbraces.htm

Just tell him Bob from Casual Restorations sent ya!
 
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This Thread deserves a Sticky somewhere if it does not have one. Great stuff in this thread
 
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man that thing from marcus is cool i wish i would have seen that before i got all the other front braces i would have gotten that.
 
Marcus's set-up is a nicely constructed piece. I believe he also uses heavier gage tubing than the stock bars.

Jack
 

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