Fabricating New Harness from C100 Bulkhead Connector to Engine, A/C, Etc.

[xcookpac]

I purchased Metripack 630 and 480 series male terminals through Amazon. The Amazon Seller is Crimp Supply Inc ("CSI") of Clawson MI. First link is to CSI's Amazon page and is set forth below. Free shipping was provided with my Amazon Prime membership. Minimum quantities were ten ("10") terminals for the 630 series and twenty ("20") terminals for the 480 series. The CSI order cost me about $22 (before sales tax) for both sets of terminals. Terminals should arrive at the middle or end of the coming week.


Link1: https://www.amazon.com/sp?_encoding...otocol=current&seller=A6AY1HFZHO49U&sshmPath=

Link2 (link to CSI storefront for 630 male sterminals): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F7S5FRW/?tag=gbody-20

 

[xcookpac]

I received the new terminals for my engine wiring harness project. I have attached a picture showing the original (AKA old) terminal and the new terminal. The replacement terminal appears to be an exact match. Picture is of the old and new Series 630 Metripack male terminals (P/N: 12064737).

Today, I attached the four twelve ("12") gauge wires (namely, two RED power into fusebox (AKA circuit 2), power-out/PURPLE starter solenoid trigger wire, and power-out/PINK distributor/coil power wire) to the the 630 male terminals. More pictures to come shortly.

 

[xcookpac]

Wired up alternator with 8 gauge GXL for run from alternator battery post to the battery terminal stud (mounted on the firewall) with a fusible link actually attaching to the battery terminal stud. Included picture is of a sample battery terminal stud. Fashioned a fusible link that will attach to the battery terminal stud and then to the 8 gauge GXL (running from the alternator's battery terminal.

I will be running a CS alternator. As part of the wiring process, I purchased an adapter which adapts from the original harness to the CS alternator connector. On the harness adapter, I have cut off the connector intended to snap into the original harness. The alternator's exciter wire is yellow in the modified adapter (and is brown in the original harness). In the photo you can see the heat shrink wrap on the modified adapter. It appears that the required resister for the exciter circuit is contained beneath the heat shrink wrap.

 

[mikester]

Curious, cant tell from the picture but how is the fusible link attached to the ring terminal ?

 

[xcookpac]

Curious, cant tell from the picture but how is the fusible link attached to the ring terminal ?

Fusible link is not yet installed. However, my plan is to attach the fusible link to the ring terminal with a nut. And, then solder (and shrink wrap) the fusible link and the 8 gauge wire together.

 

[mikester]

Fusible link is not yet installed. However, my plan is to attach the fusible link to the ring terminal with a nut. And, then solder (and shrink wrap) the fusible link and the 8 gauge wire together.

Im not really sure what you mean. In the picture it looks like the fusible link is soldered to the ring terminal.

 

[xcookpac]

Im not really sure what you mean. In the picture it looks like the fusible link is soldered to the ring terminal.

I don't think that I explained this circuit fully in my last response. So I will try again.

You are correct that a ring terminal is soldered to the fusible link. When completed the following will be the setup: i.) ring terminal of the fusible link will be attached to the battery terminal stud; ii.) the other end of the fusible link will be soldered and shrink wrapped to the 8 gauge GXL wire running to the alternator battery post; and iii.) the ring terminal soldered to the 8 gauge GXL wire (running to the alternator battery post) is bolted to the battery post of the alternator (but hidden in the picture by the rubber terminal cap).

Let me know if this explanation is more complete.

 

[mikester]

I don't think that I explained this circuit fully in my last response. So I will try again.

You are correct that a ring terminal is soldered to the fusible link. When completed the following will be the setup: i.) ring terminal of the fusible link will be attached to the battery terminal stud; ii.) the other end of the fusible link will be soldered and shrink wrapped to the 8 gauge GXL wire running to the alternator battery post; and iii.) the ring terminal soldered to the 8 gauge GXL wire (running to the alternator battery post) is bolted to the battery post of the alternator (but hidden in the picture by the rubber terminal cap).

Let me know if this explanation is more complete.

Got it now. In the picture it kinda looks like the fusible link wire is soldered to the face or outside of the ring terminal. Guess its just the way the picture looks.
I planned on running the output cable to the starter but after explaining my idea to Tony from CE Auto Electric he told me to run the output directly to the positive post on the battery due to the length I was running.
How did you come up with the length of the fusible link ?

 

[xcookpac]

Got it now. In the picture it kinda looks like the fusible link wire is soldered to the face or outside of the ring terminal. Guess its just the way the picture looks.
I planned on running the output cable to the starter but after explaining my idea to Tony from CE Auto Electric he told me to run the output directly to the positive post on the battery due to the length I was running.
How did you come up with the length of the fusible link ?

As far as fusible link length, I just used about six inches for length for the first fusible link. As almost all fusible links that I have come across are about that length (IIRC, Ford uses shorter fusible links - more like four inches; but my Camino is NOT a Ford). IOW, length of fusible link was based on experience (rather, than calculation).

 

[fleming442]

I wouldn't even mess with the fusible links, unless you're doing a concourse restoration. Now is the perfect time for something like this:

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