Finally Doing A Build Thread
- Thread starter 350_85cutty
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I'd definitely leave the bright trim off if you're going satin...
Another option though, would be to paint some of the trim (windows, etc.) to match.
Another option though, would be to paint some of the trim (windows, etc.) to match.
where i'm at so far, had a lil rot spot on the inner part of the door near the drain holes, cut it out and gonna patch it. also had a lil rust on the inside of the door above the latch assembly, that i used a dremel tool to clean up, then shot some Rust Fix on it and called it good. I took off my handle, lock and mirror, and also my window to remove the window sweep and chrome on top of the door. I put the window back in for now, i had it off for a couple days and driving to work in the cold mornings with no window is not fun! I don't wanna half *ss the paint job and just mask over the locks and handles, so I'm doing taking off what i can and trying to do it right, kinda hard since it's my daily driver so I have to do it in stages. I'm hoping to finish up the door, then take off my fender, work it and prime front and back then start on the roof this week, then make my way over to the drivers side next week, I'm gonna do my bumper covers, and header panel last as they don't require much work.
As to Chrome or not, that depends on the final look you are going for, what wheels and color, etc. It really is best on a car that is dark color, shiny and has shiny chrome or polished aluminum wheels. If you plan on doing a two tone or stripes, get rid of the trim because it will be too busy. I used it on my car as essentially a second accent color to contrast the very dark blue paint.
I have a suggestion: If you are going to get rid of the vinyl top, you need to install your rear window trim clip screws now. I did mine with the window out, and used a trim clip to locate the holes. I used stainless steel screws from Lowe's and a little bit of sealant on each screw before screwing them in place. This way, after you paint it, the paint will seal the screws to the body, and because they are stainless they won't rot. You also want to get the trim pieces off a Cutlass as the other G bodies did not use the bottom trim. The bottom trim also uses a unique gray trim clip while the other 3 pieces are put on with standard white windshield trim clips. I got my white clips off E-Bay for $15 for a box of 50, and salvaged a set of the bottom ones. The bottom ones are also on E-Bay right now for $10 a set. I broke some of mine, so I will probably just bite the bullet and buy a set of new ones so the trim doesn't rattle.
I have a suggestion: If you are going to get rid of the vinyl top, you need to install your rear window trim clip screws now. I did mine with the window out, and used a trim clip to locate the holes. I used stainless steel screws from Lowe's and a little bit of sealant on each screw before screwing them in place. This way, after you paint it, the paint will seal the screws to the body, and because they are stainless they won't rot. You also want to get the trim pieces off a Cutlass as the other G bodies did not use the bottom trim. The bottom trim also uses a unique gray trim clip while the other 3 pieces are put on with standard white windshield trim clips. I got my white clips off E-Bay for $15 for a box of 50, and salvaged a set of the bottom ones. The bottom ones are also on E-Bay right now for $10 a set. I broke some of mine, so I will probably just bite the bullet and buy a set of new ones so the trim doesn't rattle.
got my fender put back on, primed and guidecoated. the epoxy primer is thick and I'm doing 3 coats, the tech sheet says not to do more than 3 coats, so I'll block everything and then recoat then do my gray poly primer surfacer. *note i'll do all that after I get the rest of the car done. I still have the whole pass side, roof and hood, then my bumper covers and header panel
I've used about 3/4 of my Quart of epoxy prime on the trunk, quarter panel, door and fender. I was told you can prime a whole car with 2 quarts, looking to be true, if not I'll have to order some more as i only bought 2 quarts. You may be wondering why i didn't just spot prime but I had alot of lil chips in the paint that I had to featheredge and instead of being spotty with the primer, i opted to just shoot it all. I did buy a gallon of the poly primer surfacer so I'll have more than enough after i block it a couple of times to get it straight
hey if your chrome is in good shape and you dont wanna use it and i cant find it locally, i call it! lol
2000.malibu.ls said:
yeah it is in good shape, just needs polishing. the passenger side door piece has a small ding in it that's about it. I have every piece except the front passenger side piece the one that starts from the front of the wheelwell and meets up with the front bumper. I'm leaning towards not keeping it. but I'll keep you in mind, you have first dibs
I put my hood pins on, turned out to be a bit more work than i thought. left the lanyards off, need a bit more tweaking but i was ready to call it a day, it's Friday! not really happy how they fit, need to tweak em a bit, and I'm not keeping this hood, it's just a "for now" piece
350_85cutty said:
k sweet ill let you know when i can afford it and see if you have made up your mind yet.
That has to be the nicest grille and headlight bezel set left in existence! Mine was never that nice, and I got my car in 1993! In fact, the reason mine is done in black was to hide the condition of the chrome on the front end. I also swapped to the sport mirrors for the same reason as mine were terrible looking. I wish GM had used a better chroming process on it's trim pieces in the 80's.
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