finally selling
- Thread starter Matthew Goeke
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alright you guys have convinced me to just replace the whole line, ill just take my dads jack stands the next time i go over and get down and dirty, but quick question, is the brake line for the front right wheel the one that is at the bottom of the proportioning valve? i would feel terrible if i cut the wrong line. and also if the bleeder gets stuck, will i have to drill it out or weld a nut onto it? i do know the front right one is nice and loose plus it didnt have any rust on it since the car was kept in a garage its whole life.
Here ya go, this pic should help with what line goes where.
Matthew, with all due respect to you, from a certain perspective, you've been your own worst enemy here. you came onto an open public forum on the internet, and you explained thoroughly, and in pretty good detail that,
1. You have a vehicle that you are selling, that has an issue that affects the safe operation of that vehicle.
2. You wanted to try to perform the quickest and most inexpensive repair that you possibly could, regardless of whether or not its a proper, safe repair.
3. That you wanted to do a DIY repair, even though you really don't have the tools to do a proper repair, and that you have limited knowledge and skills.
You have received some good advice from a number of people, who do have both knowledge and experience with situations like this, and repairs like this.
While I do hope that you are successful at getting the repairs done on the car, and getting it sold successfuly, I have a bit more advice for you, for whatever its worth. Either stop right now, and leave the car as it is, and sell it as it is, and make full disclosure of the issues with it, to any and all prospective buyers, or find someone with some experience and/or qualifications, who can do a proper, safe repair, before selling the car. I've been a licensed mechanic here in Ontario Canada for almost 40 years now, and I've seen my share of situations like this over the years. Although I hope that you're correct, in that the rest of the brake hydraulic system on that car is in good condition, it would not surprise me if you run into other problems in the course of completing your repairs. Good luck, and please let us know how it works out.
1. You have a vehicle that you are selling, that has an issue that affects the safe operation of that vehicle.
2. You wanted to try to perform the quickest and most inexpensive repair that you possibly could, regardless of whether or not its a proper, safe repair.
3. That you wanted to do a DIY repair, even though you really don't have the tools to do a proper repair, and that you have limited knowledge and skills.
You have received some good advice from a number of people, who do have both knowledge and experience with situations like this, and repairs like this.
While I do hope that you are successful at getting the repairs done on the car, and getting it sold successfuly, I have a bit more advice for you, for whatever its worth. Either stop right now, and leave the car as it is, and sell it as it is, and make full disclosure of the issues with it, to any and all prospective buyers, or find someone with some experience and/or qualifications, who can do a proper, safe repair, before selling the car. I've been a licensed mechanic here in Ontario Canada for almost 40 years now, and I've seen my share of situations like this over the years. Although I hope that you're correct, in that the rest of the brake hydraulic system on that car is in good condition, it would not surprise me if you run into other problems in the course of completing your repairs. Good luck, and please let us know how it works out.
That picture is exactly what I needed, I new the line went under the oil pan and above something else but I didn't know how exactly it went
Hey man this car was going to the scrap yard if it wasn't for me wanting a 240sx so bad that I went out of my way to find a garage place for the 240, but the repair I am going to make is better than what the shop down the road did to my grandma, she went down the road the a brake place multiple times because they just patched the line instead of replacing it, they even convinced her she had to get a new car because the lines were so rotted even though the car wasn't at 50k miles. I wouldn't trust anyone with these repairs other than myself because there are plenty of hack mechanics out there too.
so the guy came to look at the car, and lowballed the sh*t out of my grandma, he offered 1000 for the car, so i am probably going to keep it for a few years unless i get an offer off of the craigslist ad i have posted before it expires.
I'm a little confused on the last 2 responses, seeing the one was made @ 1:00 in the morning might explain. Happened to be looking at NADA for car values and was a little taken back. They are usually overly generous on their values but I was surprised on the value of a 78 Regal only came up @ $3000.00 in excellent condition.
1978 Buick Regal
2 Door Coupe
Values
-------------------------------------------LOW----AVG----HIGH
Retail----------------------MSRP------------ RETAIL---------
Base Price--------------$5,085----$775---$1,725---$2,625
Options: (change)
305 V8 Engine-----------------------10%-----10%------10%
Factory Air Conditioning----------5%------5%-------5%
TOTAL PRICE:--------$5,085-----$890---$1,983---$3,018
Value Explanations
Prices shown are retail consumer values and to be considered as selling prices. Trade-in values are to be determined by local dealers and are generally lower than values shown. Original MSRP
Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Mostly usable “as-is”. This column does not represent a “parts car”.
Note: Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered “Daily Drivers” and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.
Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A “20-footer”.
High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well-maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Some vehicles may be considered “matching numbers” vehicles.
1978 Buick Regal
2 Door Coupe
Values
-------------------------------------------LOW----AVG----HIGH
Retail----------------------MSRP------------ RETAIL---------
Base Price--------------$5,085----$775---$1,725---$2,625
Options: (change)
305 V8 Engine-----------------------10%-----10%------10%
Factory Air Conditioning----------5%------5%-------5%
TOTAL PRICE:--------$5,085-----$890---$1,983---$3,018
Value Explanations
Prices shown are retail consumer values and to be considered as selling prices. Trade-in values are to be determined by local dealers and are generally lower than values shown. Original MSRP
Manufacturer Suggested Retail Price
Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Mostly usable “as-is”. This column does not represent a “parts car”.
Note: Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered “Daily Drivers” and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.
Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A “20-footer”.
High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well-maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Some vehicles may be considered “matching numbers” vehicles.
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I agree with these guys. Do it right, or don't do it at all. By all means don't do a piddly *ss repair job when safety is at stake...yours or a buyer's.
You could sell it as is and disclose any issues, or repair it properly and get some use out of the car. I vote for the latter, but that's me.
You could sell it as is and disclose any issues, or repair it properly and get some use out of the car. I vote for the latter, but that's me.
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