Fusible Link Info

[383_StealthRam]

69hurstolds and others have it right afaik, for 80's era GM B/G bodies it's pretty much (no more than) 9" for the length if cutting from a spool. Here's the relevant info from the service manual I had recently looked up.

Interesting that they printed NEVER in caps as well as an additional CAUTION notice, so they seemed strict about it..🤔

 

[mikester]

This is what I did the first time I tried to remake the links. The blue links been changed to a 16AWG to match the other one since I wound up using 12AWG instead of the 10AWG that I planned to use. I didnt think using 10AWG to the bulkhead connection made any sense since the other side would be 12AWG anyway.
An old time auto parts carried Delco link wire by the foot. Hopefully this will last a long time.

 

[88hurstolds]

I have some NOS fusible link wire.

 

[86 Salon]

If you are going to relocate them, why don't you just add a Maxi Fuse holder and use fuses rather than fusible links? That's what I do on all of my cars, but I'm not one to keep my cars all original, but If you are relocating them, that's not original either.

 

[69hurstolds]

All I can offer is this: Anytime you get a chance to upgrade the wiring in a G-body, do it. They seemingly did the cheapest, least reliable wiring jobs on these cars as possible. Aluminum based wires and all sorts of corner cutting measures. Unless you're doing a strict restoration, of course.

 

[pagrunt]

All I can offer is this: Anytime you get a chance to upgrade the wiring in a G-body, do it. They seemingly did the cheapest, least reliable wiring jobs on these cars as possible. Aluminum based wires and all sorts of corner cutting measures. Unless you're doing a strict restoration, of course.

That god awful aluminum wire front to rear harness won't be in Jr.'s or my car as I made new ones with copper wires. My original kept having salt eat the wires from winter driving.

 

[84cutspreme]

Okay one last opinion question…I replaced the fusible links on each feed into car and relocated to junction by headlight. Now I am hooking the ac up. The power wire that was originally at starter on v6 will now go direct to the battery. Do you think I should do fusible link like factory did or just fuse? Only powers ac/heat relay. I am leaning towards a fuse. What does everyone else think?

 

[383_StealthRam]

I would keep them all fusible links at that junction or the battery, but that's just me.

Fuses are fine, but you'll want to use MAXI, MEGA or Circuit Breaker and not just basic inline ATO or Micro type.

 

[pagrunt]

Okay one last opinion question…I replaced the fusible links on each feed into car and relocated to junction by headlight. Now I am hooking the ac up. The power wire that was originally at starter on v6 will now go direct to the battery. Do you think I should do fusible link like factory did or just fuse? Only powers ac/heat relay. I am leaning towards a fuse. What does everyone else think?

Fusible link if that's what you're sticking with for now but put a 30 amp fuse (ATO/ATC, mini ATO) near the blower on the power feed (same circuit #2 12 GA red wire) for additional protection. GM cheaped out in the mid '70's dropping that fuse which lead to the burnt/crispy/melted OE harness connector for the A/C. Regardless of what you do down the road replacing the fusible link with another form of protection like others here have done, keep that 30 amp fuse near the blower.

 

[84cutspreme]

The main power wires to fuse panel and convenience center made sense to me to keep fusible links since they are fused at panel individually. The ac relay really seems like it is all self contained and would benefit from fuse only and no fusible link. I currently wired it direct from battery to 30amp fuse straight to ac relay. I can still put fusible link if it is needed. Am I wrong in thinking it is redundant in this application?