Right on. I was going to clean up some wires that are no longer being used. I just assumed you unpinned those 12g wires. I’m going to get this mini anl fuse holder instead of the fusible links. Just put some 30 amp fuses in it. Thanks for your input
Fusible link
- Thread starter Street Sweeper22
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My advice is to let the pro, and excellent teacher oldsofb show you by way of his YT video series project!
You may want to watch all of his Engine Wiring Harness Rebuild vids (Parts 1 - 7) as they each cover a multitude of harness/wiring topics from beginning to end, no one does a better job that I've seen on the internet.
If you just want to jump to the part about depinning C100 terminals, you could use this link: youtu.be/3J6OKH5OJTA?t=615
Again all credit goes to oldsofb for taking the time to make those videos, and share them with the community. Be sure to check out his recently posted C100 documentation in the Resources area of this site.
HTH.
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I'd use 40A fuses for the 2 wires into the bulkhead connector. Feed that fuse holder off the battery, not down to the starter. And mount that holder as close to the battery as you practically can.
Hey thanks. I used his video to rebuild my AC/heater box. He is a good teacher. What about the condition of my bulkhead distribution block? Is that normal?
You could (not required) clean all of that tar like grease build up off of the actual metal terminals, then replace and pack the back side of the connector cavities with fresh, clean di-electric grease. You don't want the di-electric grease all over the actual terminal connections, only in the backside areas where the wires exit to help seal out water/moisture intrusion. I think he covers that in the video as well.
That original "tar like grease" was designed to actually harden up and provide support for the protruding terminals (male) on the harness side of the bulkhead. That would be the side you're holding in your hand, with the retaining screw that bolts into the firewall half.
If you leave the original tar/grease in there you should be just fine. However if you decide to clean it all out, I believe you're supposed to install items F & G aka Stabilizers into the connectors to help support those terminals that the hardened tar/grease was supporting, and then add the new non hardening di-electric grease as noted above.
Problem is it doesn't look like you can even get them anymore, so I would leave well enough alone and just try to clean some of that old tar/grease excess off, and from the terminals and call it a day and re-assemble it.
If you watch the oldsofb video, you'll see that he uses a depinning tool to help do the job. It's a must. If you're like me, you try and use the GM recommended tools to do a specialized job when possible and affordable.
You can still get a correct tool for Delphi/Aptiv connectors. It's called a Delphi connector depinning tool. 12094430. Fairly cheap. Personally, I'd think twice about using generic, aftermarket depinners if you can get this one.
They do have a skinnier, more pointy tool for other types of Delphi connections too, under part number 12094429. But for most of the C100 stuff, the 430 will work just fine. I'm not debunking every aftermarket tool out there, but all are not made to the correct specs and could possibly do damage to the connector. That's all I'm saying. If you got something that works for you, then use it. But I'm simply offering up the correct tool here, the rest are alternatives.
You can get them many places, but why settle for the Chinesium "other brands" when you can get the proper tool. Why risk your pins and connectors?
Here's just one place you can find it.
Or both
You can still get a correct tool for Delphi/Aptiv connectors. It's called a Delphi connector depinning tool. 12094430. Fairly cheap. Personally, I'd think twice about using generic, aftermarket depinners if you can get this one.
They do have a skinnier, more pointy tool for other types of Delphi connections too, under part number 12094429. But for most of the C100 stuff, the 430 will work just fine. I'm not debunking every aftermarket tool out there, but all are not made to the correct specs and could possibly do damage to the connector. That's all I'm saying. If you got something that works for you, then use it. But I'm simply offering up the correct tool here, the rest are alternatives.
You can get them many places, but why settle for the Chinesium "other brands" when you can get the proper tool. Why risk your pins and connectors?
Here's just one place you can find it.
Or both
I guess it would also depend on how badly you need to fill those void spaces with dielectric grease on the back of the connectors, but doing it by hand has the potential for trapping air underneath and not getting the grease all the way in. Maybe that's a good thing, but I thought the idea was to support the back of the wiring right behind the connectors. Plus make it waterproof.
Then I thought about those bicycle grease guns that fit on the little grease tube ends. Fairly cheap and it's precision. But by ALL MEANS DO NOT use it for RTV sealers and the like. Bad idea there.
Just an idea. It seems like you could get the grease down in there better, control the flow, and reduce air being trapped.
Then I thought about those bicycle grease guns that fit on the little grease tube ends. Fairly cheap and it's precision. But by ALL MEANS DO NOT use it for RTV sealers and the like. Bad idea there.
Just an idea. It seems like you could get the grease down in there better, control the flow, and reduce air being trapped.
My main concern was just the gunk being all over the mail terminals. I’m just going to clean those up a little bit and leave well enough alone. I really don’t want to do more harm than good. I appreciate your guys help and input.
I have this wire that comes out of the main bulkhead. At first I thought it was for the under hood light but I have that one accounted for. It’s about 8” long and green. Any ideas?
Wiper motor pigtail I believe, from the electronics behind the plastic cover.
Is it dark green?
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