Fusible link

[383_StealthRam]

Search Google and check out Mega Fuses, you can also use them instead of fusible links, and I believe you can get anywhere from around 60A - 250A so you can power your main fuse panel(s), and even your starter motor main cable. They use these a lot on newer cars, and with main buss plates right on top of battery.

I plan to use them similar to a friend's setup when I relocate my battery to trunk. He's just got one main, but I plan to use a few different sizes.

BOJACK AMG MEGA Fuse Holder for AMG MEGA Fuse (Pack of 2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5XLGT84?tag=gbody-20

 

[roger1]

This is what I have for Jr.'s & my Monte's. The plan is to mount them on the inner fender & running the main power circuits with (unfortunately) fusible links except for the heater fan power using a Delphi ATO/ATC fuse holder for the 30 amp fuse that all A/C cars should of had from the factory. I don't like having all those wires & links in a pain in the arse location.

I've never been a fan of fusible link wires, and especially the fact they run them down by the starter where they get subjected to heat, and oil leaks.

On mine I pulled them back from the engine harness, away from starter and if they reach, directly to the battery or an adjacent junction block on fender, or firewall.

Something like this...

Battery Junction Block Kit (Cable+Block) (BPC-001K): Junction Blocks | Racetronix

Purchase Battery Junction Block Kit (Cable+Block) or shop other Junction Blocks and Delphi / Aptiv products from Racetronix.

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Like has been said, these cars typically only have two main, sometimes three main power feeds from fuse links to fuse panel. Did you check the fuses for power at fuse panel, or IGN switch.

Lastly ditto the battery to body/fender ground cable maybe you forgot to re-attach?

Or this:

 

[pagrunt]

Or this:

I remember someone posting a set up like this, just can't remember if it was you or another member. Could you post circuit/amp set up?

 

[383_StealthRam]

The one I posted I believe is from Chevy Volt and are pretty cheap in genuine GM, but I've seen the knock offs too.

 

[383_StealthRam]

Or this:

Nice work, that's done really well!!

 

[roger1]

I remember someone posting a set up like this, just can't remember if it was you or another member. Could you post circuit/amp set up?

Sure.

Slot A - empty
Slot B - 30A breaker for Headlight power at relays. I had to modify this fuse slot a little to get this breaker to fit in.
Slot C - 10A fuse for firing the dual radiator fan relays. I'm using 3 relays for a 2- speed setup and controlling with a Dakota Digital PAC-2750
Slot D - 20A fuse for powering the PCM for the LT1 engine.
Slot E - 30A fuse for the high speed blower power at the relay. Car has factory AC.
Slot F - 30A fuse for the Alternator voltage sense wire.

MIDI/AMI fuses:
Slot 1 - 30A fuse for Subwoofer amp installed under the passenger seat.
Slot 2 - 40A fuse. Fuse panel feed to the firewall plug. This feed was originally from the starter with a fusible link. Upgraded this wire from 12ga to 10ga.
Slot 3 - 40A fuse. Fuse panel feed to the firewall plug that routes to ignition switch. Also originally on a fusible link at the starter. Upgraded to 10ga from 12ga.
Slot 4 - 30A fuse. Dual radiator fan power at the relays. 12ga wire.

All wire terminals are the uninsulated type and crimped, soldered and covered with heavy wall adhesive lined heat shrink tubing.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

I don’t have any power to the fuse box at all. When I turn the key on I have power to the little lug on the starter and multiple plugs in the engine bay. Including the ac compressor and a couple of plugs on the passenger fender. When I turn the key off those same plugs don’t light up. I just don’t have any power to the fuse box. How does it get power to those plugs and not the fuse box? I checked every fuse and probed everything in that fuse box with the key on and off. Both fusible links are new and the battery is at 12.56v. Everything was working fine until I got a new battery but the car sat for a few months. When I put the new battery in it blew the fusible links. I replaced the fusible links and I had power to the inside and when I tried to start it it blew the links again. I replaced the links and put a different starter in and now I have no power to the inside. So….. any ideas?

 

[383_StealthRam]

Please answer the following questions, with the starting point of having replaced the fusible links at the starter solenoid so they are both known good.

Without turning the KEY ON, or trying to CRANK the engine.

1 - Turn the Headlights on, do they work? Were checking to see if Fusible Link B is OK which powers the headlight switch.
2 - Does the Horn beep? We're checking to see if Fusible Link A is OK which powers the Horn relay.

If both of the above work, that means the fusible links are both OK (which they should be if you replaced them both), since those two functions headlights and horn do NOT pass through the FUSE PANEL but are fed from different fusible links off the starter. Does your fuse panel, and fuses have power at this point?

If both of the above work fine, meaning both fusible links are fine then the next steps is to answer the following:

You say when you "HIT THE KEY" the fusible link(s) blows, do you mean it blows just when you turn the IGN to RUN or it blows when you turn the IGN to CRANK to start the engine?

This is an important question because we need to determine what is downstream of the fusible link that is blowing and might be your short circuit. It takes a lot current to blow a fusible link so that means, it has to be between the fusible link and any other point before it feeds the fuse panel and fuses. If it were something with a circuit breaker (aka windows, locks) that would(should) trip and not the fusible link. Everything that has it's own fuse protection from the fuse panel and beyond would just blow the individual fuse (not fusible link).

So at this point, you've blown the fusible link(s) you replaced that were working above (horn and headlights were working), and fuse panel has lost power, etc..

So now, try the headlights again, and blow the horn again...ONE or both shouldn't work at this point if either fusible link is blown again. Report back which doesn't work Horn, Headlights or both.

I think you have a problem in the Fusible Link A (Horn stops working) which also feeds the the IGN switch, fuse panel.

If it pops the fusible link when you try to CRANK the engine, please double check and be sure that purple wire to the Starter solenoid (from IGN switch) is not rubbing or touching/pinched near the starter. That will go HOT when cranking and could easily blow the fusible link if it's shorted, or the starter solenoid itself is bad.

Let's hear back on the HORN and HEADLIGHTS question with known good fusible links as you're starting point, and go from there.

 

[383_StealthRam]

Here's an additional visual aid that might help clarify what you're dealing with...notice Fusible Links A & B at the TOP of the diagram. I highlighted for you the path they take to the downstream switches/relays, etc and ultimately the fuse block directly and via the IGN switch. You can see Fusible Link A splits off to feed more than fusible link B does most importantly the IGN switch, and notice the purple wire when cranking to the starter solenoid that if it were pinched or touching ground on it's way to the starter solenoid it would blow Fusible Link A.

Some cars I've seen in later years, used a CRANK FUSE so a bad solenoid wouldn't blow fusible link, (just simple fuse) but in these older cars it's entirely possible.

Keep at it, you'll find the problem I'm sure.

 

[Street Sweeper22]

Please answer the following questions, with the starting point of having replaced the fusible links at the starter solenoid so they are both known good.

Without turning the KEY ON, or trying to CRANK the engine.

1 - Turn the Headlights on, do they work? Were checking to see if Fusible Link B is OK which powers the headlight switch.
2 - Does the Horn beep? We're checking to see if Fusible Link A is OK which powers the Horn relay.

If both of the above work, that means the fusible links are both OK (which they should be if you replaced them both), since those two functions headlights and horn do NOT pass through the FUSE PANEL but are fed from different fusible links off the starter. Does your fuse panel, and fuses have power at this point?

If both of the above work fine, meaning both fusible links are fine then the next steps is to answer the following:

You say when you "HIT THE KEY" the fusible link(s) blows, do you mean it blows just when you turn the IGN to RUN or it blows when you turn the IGN to CRANK to start the engine?

This is an important question because we need to determine what is downstream of the fusible link that is blowing and might be your short circuit. It takes a lot current to blow a fusible link so that means, it has to be between the fusible link and any other point before it feeds the fuse panel and fuses. If it were something with a circuit breaker (aka windows, locks) that would(should) trip and not the fusible link. Everything that has it's own fuse protection from the fuse panel and beyond would just blow the individual fuse (not fusible link).

So at this point, you've blown the fusible link(s) you replaced that were working above (horn and headlights were working), and fuse panel has lost power, etc..

So now, try the headlights again, and blow the horn again...ONE or both shouldn't work at this point if either fusible link is blown again. Report back which doesn't work Horn, Headlights or both.

I think you have a problem in the Fusible Link A (Horn stops working) which also feeds the the IGN switch, fuse panel.

If it pops the fusible link when you try to CRANK the engine, please double check and be sure that purple wire to the Starter solenoid (from IGN switch) is not rubbing or touching/pinched near the starter. That will go HOT when cranking and could easily blow the fusible link if it's shorted, or the starter solenoid itself is bad.

Let's hear back on the HORN and HEADLIGHTS question with known good fusible links as you're starting point, and go from there.

Before I read your reply I just cut the fusible links out and hard wired it and everything works as it should. I just bumped the starter and it works but I didn’t know if I should try to start it without those fusible links installed. I didn’t want to ruined anything. I’m thinking I just got some bunk fusible links. If I got some inline fuse holders what gauge wire and what amp fuse should I get? I appreciate your help.