gbody handling mods - are they worth it?

[devildog214]

Im on my way to make my gbody handle as well. But my engine build has been soaking up all the cash to complete the suspension. I have an 87 monte ss with the basic f41 suspension. F41 is OK for a dirt cheap budget As well as the fbody 34 and 36mm front swaybars. But the aftermarket is where its at. If your 84 regal isnt an f41 car pick up the high ratio steering box atleast. First thing i did with my car is got the basic UMI front and rear swaybars with polyurethane, greasable bushings. Changed the car entirely. Then i went with UMI boxed lowers and fixed upper rear controll arms. I noticed a bit more improvement, i kinda reget not going a step further and getting the adjustable uppers, because you can dial in your pinion angle and have less of a drivetrain loss etc. And thats where it really stopped for me but ive got plenty of ideas still...

Soon im redoing the balljoints as well as replacing the upper and lower front control arm bushings with poly. Body bushings are on my to do list as well. Basicall all the rubber in the suspension system is most likely worn out from 25-30 years of driving. Aftermarket front A-arms have their advanages but im on somewhat of a budget. Also wheels and tires and very important 15s arent the idea tire size for our cars to take corners in. 16s and 17s with the smaller sidewalls will make it feel like a newer car. Like i said im on a budget and im looking at cragar soft 8s 17x8 all around. They are heavy steel, but cheap and strong (i drive in the city alot and cant avoid all potholes.) Also a nice set of 16x8 s-10 extreme wheels/trans am gta/camaro iroc z wheels work well with our cars with little modifications. Lastly a quality lowering spring will do wonders. Theres a list of moog springs that give you the rate and ammount of a drop. But Aftermarket is better. Eibachs are ok, OPGI, detroit speed, hotchkis, helwig and a few other companies im missing. Im almost 100% sure im going with detroit speeds springs. They give a 2in drop all around instead of the 1in front .8in rear found the the eibachs. Im not sure 1 inch springs will give me the "look" i want but any aftermarket sping will be way ahead of the low spring rate, sagging springs in the gbody. Check out scandc.com as well. Alot of quality parts and a great staff to help you.

 

[G-Body_Vet]

"them f bodys are great for parts!"

Yep! 3rd gen specifically.
I have a hollow 34mm sway bar = $30.
Moog 5664's fronts (Iroc convertible springs)=bought new of ebay in the $30 range too.
The Moog list I always post :lol: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm

I also have a WS6 steering box, the 2.25 turn lock to lock version.

 

[iambigperm]

Has anyone here done the full, stage 3 UMI Performance suspension kit for the G-body? That is the way I would be leaning. Plus new body mount bushings and any needed bracing. The only thing I question in the UMI kit is the stock style sway bar. For all the drag racing I do I like the idea of one that ties to the body like Spohn sells. I'm not sure how the Spohn style would affect the handling.

 

[megaladon6]

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?23398-G-body-Roll-Call&highlight=g-body
it doesn't take much more money to make a g-body handle than most other muscle cars, they just aren't as popular so there aren't as many suppliers (though this is changing)
go to SC&C's site, or better yet call them and talk to marcus.
honestly, just putting delrin bushings, drop springs, poly sway bar bushings (already have the F-41 package) tubular control arms made a huge difference. next is SC&C's stage 2+ kit, or if i win the lotto AFX spindles.

 

[LIVE4RDO]

"them f bodys are great for parts!"

Yep! 3rd gen specifically.
I have a hollow 34mm sway bar = $30.
Moog 5664's fronts (Iroc convertible springs)=bought new of ebay in the $30 range too.
The Moog list I always post :lol: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm

I also have a WS6 steering box, the 2.25 turn lock to lock version.

How do you like the WS6 steering box? I just put one on, but the jury is still out. I drove it only once so far, but it seems like turning radius is much bigger, which was obviously expected.

 

[87z16]

"them f bodys are great for parts!"

Yep! 3rd gen specifically.
I have a hollow 34mm sway bar = $30.
Moog 5664's fronts (Iroc convertible springs)=bought new of ebay in the $30 range too.
The Moog list I always post :lol: http://jeffd.50megs.com/Moog_Spring_Page.htm

I also have a WS6 steering box, the 2.25 turn lock to lock version.

How do you like the WS6 steering box? I just put one on, but the jury is still out. I drove it only once so far, but it seems like turning radius is much bigger, which was obviously expected.

from what i understand is the steering box is the same but the stops are different. the g stops r for the 15" rims and the f stops r for 16", so the rims dont hit inside. so that is prob y your steering radius changed.

 

[pontiacgp]

from what i understand is the steering box is the same but the stops are different. the g stops r for the 15" rims and the f stops r for 16", so the rims dont hit inside. so that is prob y your steering radius changed.

you right about the stops and I'm running a 38mm bar so the stops stop my tires from rubbing, the turning circle is larger but that can be adjusted with the gas pedal and clutch. There is a difference in the Z box tho, it's a heavier feel so it gives you a better feel at higher speeds

 

[G-Body_Vet]

How do you like the WS6 steering box? I just put one on, but the jury is still out. I drove it only once so far, but it seems like turning radius is much bigger, which was obviously expected.

I haven't driven the car yet since it's still under construction. My original plan included 2" drop spindles, but I've slightly changed direction since then and sold them. The idea was to prevent rub with a tucked wheel like Pontiacgp said.

 

[UMI Sales]

Has anyone here done the full, stage 3 UMI Performance suspension kit for the G-body? That is the way I would be leaning. Plus new body mount bushings and any needed bracing. The only thing I question in the UMI kit is the stock style sway bar. For all the drag racing I do I like the idea of one that ties to the body like Spohn sells. I'm not sure how the Spohn style would affect the handling.

Hey guys. Bigperm, thanks for mentioning the UMI Stage 3. Our Stage 3 kit is a good seller for us in that it really tightens things up bushing-wise and the reduced deflection from the improved strength components makes for a solid base for your car.

With the addition of the 1/2" taller ball joint option we've been able to improve the camber curve without any additional chassis mods required. The additional caster correction (1 degree) helps the steering feel better as well.

We are developing as we speak, I was under the car today actually, a chassis mount Pro-Tour bar as well as a drag bar. Both bars will be on-car adjustable for preload and will have three hole adjustment for bar rate. The Pro-Tour bar on its stiffest setting will also function as a semi-drag bar. We will recommend the drag bar for cars mostly intended for drag with occasional street since a true drag bar makes the car REALLY loose on long sweeping corners. The Pro-Tour will help the car rotate but not swap ends immediately like a drag bar with a crazy driver (not talking about Jerry, our tech, ha ha).

Our Stage 3 Monte Carlo is destined for auto-x competition Summer 2012 and should be a fun ride as it is totally grandma looking but drives really nicely. UMI's Stage 3 package is a good combination of performance and price.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

ramey

 

[pontiacgp]

one other thing I did was I got rid of the front outside tire scuffing and improved cornering with a 1* negative camber instead of the positive camber settings they call for