gbody handling mods - are they worth it?

[drogg1]

For springs I'm kind of leaning towards selecting my rate I want from a set of springs like:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-5-In ... 23682.html

and then installing them using a spacer like:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/AFCO-Adju ... 23948.html

Ends up costing just slightly more per spring than a MOOG setup or aftermarket. However, you get almost 5 inches of play as the top of the spacer is 3" and can be cut to size.

It's a circle track thing but I don't see any reason for it not working in a street car. Especially considering the cost of lowering springs, the fact you can pick the exact rate you would like, it's adjustable, and you can buy circle track quality springs like AFCO's or Hyperco's.

A circle track guy like pontiacgp might be able to chime in with more information.

 

[pontiacgp]

it will work on a street car but the link is for springs 1250 to 1300 spring rate. The highest we used was 1100 springs for the right front only. For the street the highest I have used is 660 and with the large bar it might go as high as 950. There is another brand of circle track springs that you could use without the adjustable spring pocket. For the front your are limited to how much you can drop the car since there is not much travel room between the lower control arm the the frame. You can remove the hump on the rear on the lower control arm to give more clearance

go down on the list to the Conventionals

http://www.hypercoils.com/PDF/Parts_List_2011.pdf

 

[drogg1]

Good info on the rates. I think I'll have to play around with some of the springs my buddy has for his IMCA modified as I think they are 9.5". The springs I posted you can select from a drop down box what rate you want. The 1250 and 1300 are just on clearance. I've heard Hypercoils are good too.

 

[pontiacgp]

I didn't notice the selection box....that's a good price for those springs. They can't sell them for too much cause us circle track guys are cheap....

 

[iambigperm]

Has anyone here done the full, stage 3 UMI Performance suspension kit for the G-body? That is the way I would be leaning. Plus new body mount bushings and any needed bracing. The only thing I question in the UMI kit is the stock style sway bar. For all the drag racing I do I like the idea of one that ties to the body like Spohn sells. I'm not sure how the Spohn style would affect the handling.

Hey guys. Bigperm, thanks for mentioning the UMI Stage 3. Our Stage 3 kit is a good seller for us in that it really tightens things up bushing-wise and the reduced deflection from the improved strength components makes for a solid base for your car.

With the addition of the 1/2" taller ball joint option we've been able to improve the camber curve without any additional chassis mods required. The additional caster correction (1 degree) helps the steering feel better as well.

We are developing as we speak, I was under the car today actually, a chassis mount Pro-Tour bar as well as a drag bar. Both bars will be on-car adjustable for preload and will have three hole adjustment for bar rate. The Pro-Tour bar on its stiffest setting will also function as a semi-drag bar. We will recommend the drag bar for cars mostly intended for drag with occasional street since a true drag bar makes the car REALLY loose on long sweeping corners. The Pro-Tour will help the car rotate but not swap ends immediately like a drag bar with a crazy driver (not talking about Jerry, our tech, ha ha).

Our Stage 3 Monte Carlo is destined for auto-x competition Summer 2012 and should be a fun ride as it is totally grandma looking but drives really nicely. UMI's Stage 3 package is a good combination of performance and price.

Let me know if you have any additional questions.

ramey

When do you expect this new Pro-Tour bar to hit the market? I was hoping to order the Stage 3 kit between xmas and new years. It looks like a great package. I can't wait to ditch the 27 year old 6 cylinder suspension! At this point I think my F350 handles better than the Buick.

 

[UMI Sales]

Hey guys.

We expect to release the Pro-Tour bar sometime in January, most likely shipping by the end of that month.

If you're interested in the Stage 3 kit, we'll certainly work with you on that substitution. We can ship the other components immediately then ship the rear bar when it's introduced. As we progress with that bar we'll incorporate it into a kit on the website.

I'm working on the on-car adjusters now, just finalizing a few things. We like to install and remove these items a bunch of times to make sure they are a pleasure to install. We do all the wrench throwing so you don't have to.

ramey

 

[dogsht]

This has been a fantastic thread. On the $3,000 budget. He said his car is street strip & drag raced to 11.50s so I assume he is figuring money for wheels tires & brakes as well. You can easy spend $3k on that alone. Even being frugal at least if you are getting new aftermarket brakes and doing much of the labor yourself.

A couple thoughts with regards to striking a balance between great handling, ride, and acceleration traction, that can still confidently hold an 11.50 gbody. I would choose wheels in the 16 to 18" range. Bigger wheels with rubber band tires can become greased snot trying to accelerate on the street in an 11.50 G. Not saying it can't be done with great traction improving mods but generally plus you tend to get the harsh ride he is trying to avoid. Also you can get drag radials in these sizes to fit Gs which I would think would be a mandatory or at least a great bang for the buck upgrade here. For example M&H has a 275/40/18 that is a bolt up with the proper rim backspacing. Doesn't even require a fender lip roll. It has the same height & section width as a common 275/60/15 just in a 40 series tire on usually a 18x9 rim. So it should handle AND stick.

With regards to brakes. No expert here but my understanding is go big and aftermarket. If you have no planes to autocross race it etc then bang for the buck would be fronts and maybe inexpensive used factory big car drums (with a proportioning valve) as all most all your stopping power comes from up front, you can exceed your rear brake power needs with big drums, and brake fade isn't an issue on the street.

 

[pontiacgp]

The only problem with the G body's 4 link rear set up is the rear axle turns the wrong way in a corner. In a turn the back end is steering the car the same direction of the turn. A 3 link cures that and for my street car it'd be nice to have but it's not necessary.

 

[beermonkey9417]

i installed a rear sway bar and up graded the front sway bar in my elky, and to me it was night and day. i would say more but im inebriated.. so i wait till im sober....maybe... 8)

 

[pontiacgp]

sounds like those sway bar upgrades didn't stop you from swaying over to the bar...