BUILD THREAD Grand prix LS1 build

[motorholmes]

I also wouldn't worry too much about the distance from the crank to the next pulley.

Yeah the only thing I would worry about there is not having enough belt contact on the crank pulley. I guess people run em that way, so they must work just fine.

 

[85GPLef41]

You can always use a billet tensioner from Katech, Comp, etc. Once the belt breaks in I don't think you'll really see that much change, if that was the case I'd be having to adjust my Katech tensioner all the time

I have an Iceman crossmember and I'm extremely happy with it. The BRP mounts that I have don't use the original V8 mount holes, so technically it keeps the trans in the same spot just as it would with other mounts.

If you have any junkyards around you, try and look for an alternator from a truck with a 4.8/5.3/6.0, as it's the same casing alternator just without the stupid cooling duct on the back. I'd be willing to bet if you got a truck alternator on there you wouldn't have too many issues with the spark plug or coolant sensor.

I also wouldn't worry too much about the distance from the crank to the next pulley.

I did have that crossmember in mind so..Also gonna look into a truck alt if it doesn't have the coolant duct then i'm going to be more comfortable with the plug cable and sensor clearance.. 8) i have heard of maybe a issue of the belt slipping when using wide tires...Who knows?? Gonna find out sooner or later.

 

[LS1GN]

The belt will slip and you won't necessarily know it (until you drive through a puddle). You'll have rubber dust all over the accessories probably.

In my humble opinion, a serpentine belt is not really going to stretch out. The ribs may break down quickly if it is tight, and that will give the illusion of it becoming looser.

 

[85GPLef41]

Yeah i need to find out and see what happens, I may end up getting a Kwik performance brackets later on when i decide to go with a/c.. UPDATE: Did a mock install of the 4L65E this morning and man it was a tight fit! I had to hammer down the seam on the drivers side down for it to go in right. I tried to lower the rear of the engine but the valve cover kept hitting the heater box, and thats without the coils bolted on.. I think i could use my original crossmember if i extend the trans mount pad forward a inch or two. I have no issue doing this but it seems the original trans mount is too tall for it to go in. The trans as of right now is hitting the floorboard, which i wish i could lower a bit to give me some clearance between trans and foorboard. What are you guys using for the trans mount? Also for trans lines, seems to close to the foorboard... Any ideas? Here are some pics of what i have going on. I am going to remove the non a/c box heat shield and notch the box to gain more clearance..Guess i a have to learn how to fiberglass now.. 8) Anybody have pics of their hvac box notch for coil clearancing?

 

[LS1GN]

I'm bewildered as to why yours is such a tight fit???? I thought my 4L60 and your 4L65E were the same size? I can R & R my governor while the transmission is in the car. I can easily get to my trans cooling lines.

You must have your eng/trans set waaaaaay farther back than me. Here is a pic of mine - best I have at the moment.

 

[85GPLef41]

I have it 1in setback with those stupid 4595 transdapt pates.. :? I thought about using the stock mount pates, but it looks like the clearance between the oil pan and engine crossmember will decrease and the CTS-V oil pan will hit the crossmemember... i think i might have found a way to make the trans crossmember work. I am going to cut the trans mount plate flip it upside down and extend it...Will have pics soon if it works.Also what are you using for the trans dipstick? Mine doesn't fit go figure

 

[LS1GN]

I am also using the one inch setbacks, but they are bolted as far forward as possible on my K member. My trans dipstick tube is stock, but rubs on the firewall. I think Lokar makes a bendy one.

 

[79loserbluebu]

The F-body trans dipstick and tube work, not too well with aftermarket fuel rails though. You'll have to hit it a couple times depending on where it hits and how it fits in there.

For a trans mount I'm just using an Energy Suspension one from the local parts store

The Kwik brackets aren't all they are hyped up to be. It can be a real pain trying to figure out belt sizes and getting the alignment of everything correct.

 

[85GPLef41]

I am also using the one inch setbacks, but they are bolted as far forward as possible on my K member. My trans dipstick tube is stock, but rubs on the firewall. I think Lokar makes a bendy one.

The lower mounts are bolted on in the regular SBC location..As far as i know the trans dipstick tube is from a f body according to the trans builder but I'm not too sure.. I heard a lot of bad things about the Lokar one ie: takes too long to fill it up and not accurate. I am going to try to find one off a LS F body and compare it.

The F-body trans dipstick and tube work, not too well with aftermarket fuel rails though. You'll have to hit it a couple times depending on where it hits and how it fits in there.

For a trans mount I'm just using an Energy Suspension one from the local parts store

The Kwik brackets aren't all they are hyped up to be. It can be a real pain trying to figure out belt sizes and getting the alignment of everything correct.

My stock 2004r mount seems to work but the crossmember pad is not even close about 3-4 inches short... I'm going to try to modify my mount later and hopefully it works... It seems like one obstacle after another...

 

[85GPLef41]

Finally got my trans crossmember done.... Hope so! I did a trans crossmember 2004r mod..

welded in new c channel

but was off on wrong angle..

redid the trans mount now..so i cut it off and redid it..

so angled the the crossmember and it seems to work now..

trans weight is all on it now.. and clearance is way better now..