JBreu said:
Are there direct fit/plug in replacement upgrades now available for our G-Body cars??? I have seen some of the "plug and Play" deals on E-Bay..... 8)
I myself was going to jump right into getting HID lights for my ride but then I came across some forum I found on Google when I was looking up sealed beam H4 HID conversions and there I found this website
http://www.danielsternlighting.com
I went on the website and read it all the way through top to bottom and the guy Daniel seemed like he knew what he was talking about and doing when it came to upgrading outdated head lights and wiring harness. So I sent him an email telling him my idea and plans and this is the email he sent back and why I am going to buy the light housing and anything else I need including the upgraded headlight wiring harness.
Yes, the 165mm x 100mm lamps are correct for that car, H4 high/low and H1 high. Your nighttime seeing will be _considerably_ safer and easier once you have installed these lamps.
If you stay with stock wiring, you absolutely must stick with regular-wattage bulbs, and even that is pushing it because GM specified low-wattage sealed beams with corresponding light-duty wiring. Options in regular-wattage H4 bulbs are plain ($9), high output ($13) or ultra high output ($18). H1 is plain ($9), high output ($11) or ultra high output ($15.50). Given the thin original wiring, you will want to put in headlamp relays whether or not you intend to increase bulb wattage over the stock level. This can be achieved with relay kit RIK-4, $59. The RIK is not a harness, but a _parts kit_ containing all relays, brackets, terminal blocks, terminals, plugs, sockets, fuses and fuseholders. You supply your own wire and use the parts from the kit to build up your own wiring harness. Specific instructions are provided, and the concept is explained at
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech ... elays.html .Parts are specially made premium-grade items (e.g. ceramic headlamp sockets) that accept large-gauge wire; this is not the "consumer grade" junk you can find at the parts store. Or, I can have my harness builder custom build you a ready-to-install harness assembly using the same components. Cost for this option is $139 (including parts and labour - you pick _either_ the relay kit _or_ the custom-built harness. It costs more than the $30 to $50 Chinese prefab harnesses because it is not a Chinese prefab harness). Either way, the in-car switches continue working normally, and you will not need to cut or otherwise disturb any of the vehicle's original wires.
If you upgrade the wiring one way or the other, use Osram 70/65w H4 bulbs ($22/ea).
GM introduced daytime running lights for 1995. If you are interested in having (or keeping, after you install headlamp relays) a daytime running light function on your vehicle, the best implementation is the full-time operation of the front directional signals (except, of course, when they are operating as signals). Directional signals produce a light distribution with a wide conspicuity angle, are generally well located for DRL service at the outboard edges of the front of the vehicle, consume considerably less power than any headlamp-based DRL implementation, use light sources of generally much longer life than any headlamp bulb, do not encourage improper nighttime use of lights, and do not require additional lighting devices to be added. Most recent Cadillacs, Chevrolet/GMC large vans and minivans, some Toyota and Lexus models, certain new Lincolns and assorted other vehicles use this implementation. Note we are talking about the full-time operation of the bright amber turn signals, not the dim parking lamps. Turn signal DRLs comply with US and Canadian Motor Vehicle Safety Standards #108 and are approved in all states, provinces, and territories.
You can easily enable this functionality in your vehicle using a DRL-1 module ($42 here, see
http://dastern.torque.net/Mods/DRL/DRL1.html )
