There must be. I've never owned an injected g body so not sure where it runs. A Haynes manual would be a good investment, then you know for sure what wire color you're looking for.
Help !!! 4.3 to v8 swap fuel pump problem
- Thread starter 87chevyboy
- Start date
- Status
Something just crossed my mind.... do you have a fuel pressure regulator? Or are you running fuel injection on this V8?
If not, just go buy a mechanical fuel pump and save the headache. May have to re-route some hoses, beats wiring though.
If not, just go buy a mechanical fuel pump and save the headache. May have to re-route some hoses, beats wiring though.
I'm running a 1992 block with no hole for the mechanical fuel pump and yes have a pressure regulator
I hooked up the power straight to the back like you said and I got nothing no juice so I'm guessing my pump is no good but then when I hook up that tan and white wire it starts up but no pressure comes through the line
What fuel system are you running - carb, TBI?? The car was originally a TBI V6? How are you verifying fuel pressure, or lack of? Is the car an 87?
Leave the Mr. Gasket pump at the store - they're not a reliable solution. You can pickup a stock Airtex pump and strainer from RockAuto for less than $35. If your new motor is carburated then you'll need a fuel pressure regualtor to cut the pressure down to 5-6 psi - something like this : http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12...Ng4n8FqmBEhwToDKwQGUkFNnxbUeMiX7WeRoCFCzw_wcB. But if you're swapping in a TBI motor, then the stock replacement is what is needed. It will also be a good time to flush out the fuel tank at the same time if you haven't already done so.
You do need a relay of some sort to operate the pump. If the stock wiring and relay are in place, the you can use them, but if not, then a simple 4 pin relay as described by others is all that is needed with an inline fuse along with some BASIC wiring skill. For immediate testing you need some wire to hot wire the pump to check operation. Keep in mind that all factory pumps are setup to see either oil pressure or tach signal to identify that the engine is running or cranking so that the pump shuts off in the event that the car quits. The idea being that the pump will shutoff if the engine quits for whatever reason.
If you need to add a relay, then one of these setups are the way to IMO : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Tr...ash=item566034ba97:g:qHYAAOSwjVVVilyK&vxp=mtr. Keep in mind that any square 4 or 5 pin relay will work as a replacement or spare and they are carried by every parts store. The issue with finding them is that there are about 1000 manufacturers of them and everyone uses a different part number.
I've never had much luck finding a relay and relay receptacle at local parts stores for less than $10. Buying them Ebay has always been my best option. It sounds like you're in a hurry to get this running, but making your fuel system reliable is more of a concern. The unreliable stuff never seems to give up at an opportune time, at least for me.
Best of luck - Jim
Leave the Mr. Gasket pump at the store - they're not a reliable solution. You can pickup a stock Airtex pump and strainer from RockAuto for less than $35. If your new motor is carburated then you'll need a fuel pressure regualtor to cut the pressure down to 5-6 psi - something like this : http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12...Ng4n8FqmBEhwToDKwQGUkFNnxbUeMiX7WeRoCFCzw_wcB. But if you're swapping in a TBI motor, then the stock replacement is what is needed. It will also be a good time to flush out the fuel tank at the same time if you haven't already done so.
You do need a relay of some sort to operate the pump. If the stock wiring and relay are in place, the you can use them, but if not, then a simple 4 pin relay as described by others is all that is needed with an inline fuse along with some BASIC wiring skill. For immediate testing you need some wire to hot wire the pump to check operation. Keep in mind that all factory pumps are setup to see either oil pressure or tach signal to identify that the engine is running or cranking so that the pump shuts off in the event that the car quits. The idea being that the pump will shutoff if the engine quits for whatever reason.
If you need to add a relay, then one of these setups are the way to IMO : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Tr...ash=item566034ba97:g:qHYAAOSwjVVVilyK&vxp=mtr. Keep in mind that any square 4 or 5 pin relay will work as a replacement or spare and they are carried by every parts store. The issue with finding them is that there are about 1000 manufacturers of them and everyone uses a different part number.
I've never had much luck finding a relay and relay receptacle at local parts stores for less than $10. Buying them Ebay has always been my best option. It sounds like you're in a hurry to get this running, but making your fuel system reliable is more of a concern. The unreliable stuff never seems to give up at an opportune time, at least for me.
Best of luck - Jim
What fuel system are you running - carb, TBI?? The car was originally a TBI V6? How are you verifying fuel pressure, or lack of? Is the car an 87?
Leave the Mr. Gasket pump at the store - they're not a reliable solution. You can pickup a stock Airtex pump and strainer from RockAuto for less than $35. If your new motor is carburated then you'll need a fuel pressure regualtor to cut the pressure down to 5-6 psi - something like this : http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12...Ng4n8FqmBEhwToDKwQGUkFNnxbUeMiX7WeRoCFCzw_wcB. But if you're swapping in a TBI motor, then the stock replacement is what is needed. It will also be a good time to flush out the fuel tank at the same time if you haven't already done so.
You do need a relay of some sort to operate the pump. If the stock wiring and relay are in place, the you can use them, but if not, then a simple 4 pin relay as described by others is all that is needed with an inline fuse along with some BASIC wiring skill. For immediate testing you need some wire to hot wire the pump to check operation. Keep in mind that all factory pumps are setup to see either oil pressure or tach signal to identify that the engine is running or cranking so that the pump shuts off in the event that the car quits. The idea being that the pump will shutoff if the engine quits for whatever reason.
If you need to add a relay, then one of these setups are the way to IMO : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Tr...ash=item566034ba97:g:qHYAAOSwjVVVilyK&vxp=mtr. Keep in mind that any square 4 or 5 pin relay will work as a replacement or spare and they are carried by every parts store. The issue with finding them is that there are about 1000 manufacturers of them and everyone uses a different part number.
I've never had much luck finding a relay and relay receptacle at local parts stores for less than $10. Buying them Ebay has always been my best option. It sounds like you're in a hurry to get this running, but making your fuel system reliable is more of a concern. The unreliable stuff never seems to give up at an opportune time, at least for me.
Best of luck - Jim
Leave the Mr. Gasket pump at the store - they're not a reliable solution. You can pickup a stock Airtex pump and strainer from RockAuto for less than $35. If your new motor is carburated then you'll need a fuel pressure regualtor to cut the pressure down to 5-6 psi - something like this : http://www.jegs.com/i/Holley/510/12...Ng4n8FqmBEhwToDKwQGUkFNnxbUeMiX7WeRoCFCzw_wcB. But if you're swapping in a TBI motor, then the stock replacement is what is needed. It will also be a good time to flush out the fuel tank at the same time if you haven't already done so.
You do need a relay of some sort to operate the pump. If the stock wiring and relay are in place, the you can use them, but if not, then a simple 4 pin relay as described by others is all that is needed with an inline fuse along with some BASIC wiring skill. For immediate testing you need some wire to hot wire the pump to check operation. Keep in mind that all factory pumps are setup to see either oil pressure or tach signal to identify that the engine is running or cranking so that the pump shuts off in the event that the car quits. The idea being that the pump will shutoff if the engine quits for whatever reason.
If you need to add a relay, then one of these setups are the way to IMO : http://www.ebay.com/itm/Car-Auto-Tr...ash=item566034ba97:g:qHYAAOSwjVVVilyK&vxp=mtr. Keep in mind that any square 4 or 5 pin relay will work as a replacement or spare and they are carried by every parts store. The issue with finding them is that there are about 1000 manufacturers of them and everyone uses a different part number.
I've never had much luck finding a relay and relay receptacle at local parts stores for less than $10. Buying them Ebay has always been my best option. It sounds like you're in a hurry to get this running, but making your fuel system reliable is more of a concern. The unreliable stuff never seems to give up at an opportune time, at least for me.
Best of luck - Jim
- Status
Similar threads
