At the very least, they should reimburse you what they would have paid their contracted towing company
Help oil pressure drops while driving, car dies
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At the very least, they should reimburse you what they would have paid their contracted towing company
My insurance company will reimburse me for towing costs but I have to pay first then get reimbursed. I find it easier to pay the $150 CAA membership fee which allows me to have any car towed that I request so I can help out friends and family if i am out with them. Plus I get perks with reductions at stores and earn money towards the annual fee if I fill up at certain stations.
Greetings zdeckich & all; I'm not sure I can help but maybe?? I looked but didn't see what ignition you have, so I'll need to know, distributor, module, coil & mount? Why I ask is you seem to have a similar problem that I had experienced years ago during hot weather. But this time of year when it's 16*F out my brain doesn't compute perspective well! I'll look for your info later & get back to ya. Ole' Bob
Hello Bob, yes it's HEI with coil on top. Just bought a new coil to try it and it didn't do anything but used a volt meter and it's getting power, but since its dark out can't work. (Car at my dads house) so maybe it could be the ignition module, or maybe a fuse? Kinda stumped. And starting to annoy me lol.
When I ran an HEI I always had a spare. The best module I had was from a GM ZZ4 crate engine distributor. Now that I run an MSD distributor I carry a spare MSD distributor...😀
Greetings Guys; I've been thinking (danger), my first & maybe best guess is the green reluctor wire. They get hard from age (well age hasn't helped me), heat & the constant flexing from the vacuum advance sucking on the rotating OD portion. So take a very close look at it. And yes you have to disassemble the distributor to get at it. Possibly a quick check would be un hook the vacuum hose & see if it will run. If it runs & then as soon as you hook it back up it kills, you got it. Other possibilities new coil is junk, module is toast & or a bad ground between the cap & coil? Some corrosion that you may of over looked. Good luck, let us know how it goes & we can always keep guessing, Ole' Bob.
Ps: Unrelated to your problems, but what I found out after three phone calls to MSD many moons ago, is external round coils work better & are less stressed by heat if they are mounted vertical. In other words Ford mounted their coils incorrectly for many years & that explains why they had more ignition trouble back in the day. The oil in the coil when mounted on it's side exposes more winding & over heats the coil easer.
Pss: Next we can talk about your low oil pressure concern.
Ps: Unrelated to your problems, but what I found out after three phone calls to MSD many moons ago, is external round coils work better & are less stressed by heat if they are mounted vertical. In other words Ford mounted their coils incorrectly for many years & that explains why they had more ignition trouble back in the day. The oil in the coil when mounted on it's side exposes more winding & over heats the coil easer.
Pss: Next we can talk about your low oil pressure concern.
The reason I suspect the module is the description of what occurred when the car died. A pick up coil related problem will cause the engine to cut out quickly and quietly. The module can cause the car to sputter and back fire when it's faulty.
Lets go back to basics. Are you sure you don't have spark?
Buy a spark plug type ignition tester. It is a go/no go for spark. If you don't have spark then remove the cap and hook the spark tester to the cap center button and see if you have it. The rotor could be burned through due to a bad plug wire or aged plugs. Next take your test light and tickle the pick-up coil wires at the module with one end of the test light connected to ground. If you get spark it is a bad pick-up coil and also good previous advice on the broken wire at the pick up coil. After that assuming you check for current to the distributor it is a matter of replacing with a known good part. I also assume the distributor is turning.
The towing option on my auto policy is $5.00 a year and my agent writes me a check to reimburse me. Cheap coverage
Buy a spark plug type ignition tester. It is a go/no go for spark. If you don't have spark then remove the cap and hook the spark tester to the cap center button and see if you have it. The rotor could be burned through due to a bad plug wire or aged plugs. Next take your test light and tickle the pick-up coil wires at the module with one end of the test light connected to ground. If you get spark it is a bad pick-up coil and also good previous advice on the broken wire at the pick up coil. After that assuming you check for current to the distributor it is a matter of replacing with a known good part. I also assume the distributor is turning.
The towing option on my auto policy is $5.00 a year and my agent writes me a check to reimburse me. Cheap coverage
I bet the pick up coil is fried. This happened to our 75 Cutlass and my Dad's 83 GMC 1/2 ton. They just die out of blue like that. As said the wire probably fatigued and lost connection. I also had a Chrysler 318 pick up go bad.
Back in the day I replaced a bunch. Most techs don't know about tickling the module with a test light. It simulates the signal from the pickup
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