ditch the computer crap get a normal carb, distributor and lock up kit for the trans
Never worry about it again!
Never worry about it again!
CUTLASS Help please!
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Sounds like an option. Know of any reputable shops in the NY area that can do this for me without getting raped, lol?
Do it urself every wire coming from the passenger side harness
the one coming from under the AC box is garbage
the one coming from under the AC box is garbage
Yes, I’m going to try the egr trick soon. Code 42 can be very tricky from what I’m hearing. I Had the same problem with a 91 camaro and I sold the car to my brother in law without fixing it. Turned out the the ECM was the culprit. Now, is the distributor in the 307 olds engine computer and vacuum controlled?
The .060 gap was causing issues back in the day. Get some .045 gap plugs n try them.
Sounds like ignition to me. Are plugs wires routed properly away from any modules as could be interference. Did you put the right parts in? Has engine been apart as a ground wire could be an issue? Does it occur when vehicle is hot or cold? Disconnect and reconnect ECM connectors carefully a couple times. Leave ECM on floor board and see if acts up. Let me know and we can proceed further
I agree...definitely an ignition problem and not fuel related. Yes, wired away properly and replaced all the parts with AC delco. No, engine Has not been taken apart. She currently has 116k. Either hot or cold. I actually drove the car the other day for 5 min straight and she ran fine. Then just outta no where, she began misfiring and died at a light. Started back up and the CEL light stood on. Whatever it is, I’m sure it’s simple. I will look at the ECM Over the weekend . I gambled on $150 replacing the parts on my original thread. Unsure if I should throw in the towel and take it to a shop.
I know it's a long shot here, because most of the time it either just works or it does not.
Code 42 USUALLY ends up being the module, since I'm not there to see what's going on, etc. (Long distance troubleshooting is difficult and hardly reliable) but I'm going out on a limb and saying if you replace the ignition module (7 pin in a V8 307Y) it normally fixes your ills on that. If it was doing it ONLY when warm, I'd suspect maybe a coolant input, but it does it whenever it wants. So I'm leaning to module.
No guarantees, but it's much easier and cheaper than replacing your ECM first because believe it or not, the ECM's are pretty robust as far as the environment they live in. Not saying it's your problem definitely, because most of the time the module just dies and that's it. But sometimes they show up periodically and go away several times....AND THEN they die.
My recommendation- and it's relatively cheap to try...….
Go get a new module. The GM number from the parts book is 1976908, ACDelco D1956. (they change these numbers a lot) Or you can go get a good equivalent at NAPA or O'reilly or wherever you buy your car parts. Whatever you do, don't cheap out on this module. And also get some good silicone heat sink grease to put on the bottom of it (metal plate side down) when you install it. Sometimes it comes with the module in a very small blister bulb, but most of the time it won't. Without it you may cook that joker.
It looks something like this.
Latest part number is 19179581 and Amazon has them:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2ZQBM/?tag=gbody-20
Standard Motor Products equivalent number is LX315 if you need it. Try to avoid the made in China versions if possible. Honestly, I don't know where they make them anymore. I recommend the GM ACDelco brand made in USA for stock ignition/emission stuff when you can get it. You can usually find the old "good stuff" on ebay, and sometimes dirt cheap. Although a lot of their modules were made in Singapore. I'd still trust them over some of that oddball brand stuff.
The grease? If the module doesn't come with that little pack of heat sink grease, then you can get just about any silicone based dielectric heat sink compound (Make sure to get HEAT SINK rated grease. Not just any old grease). I got a tube of this stuff here, and it cost me around 4 to 5 bucks IIRC. It'll last a LONG time.
Code 42 USUALLY ends up being the module, since I'm not there to see what's going on, etc. (Long distance troubleshooting is difficult and hardly reliable) but I'm going out on a limb and saying if you replace the ignition module (7 pin in a V8 307Y) it normally fixes your ills on that. If it was doing it ONLY when warm, I'd suspect maybe a coolant input, but it does it whenever it wants. So I'm leaning to module.
No guarantees, but it's much easier and cheaper than replacing your ECM first because believe it or not, the ECM's are pretty robust as far as the environment they live in. Not saying it's your problem definitely, because most of the time the module just dies and that's it. But sometimes they show up periodically and go away several times....AND THEN they die.
My recommendation- and it's relatively cheap to try...….
Go get a new module. The GM number from the parts book is 1976908, ACDelco D1956. (they change these numbers a lot) Or you can go get a good equivalent at NAPA or O'reilly or wherever you buy your car parts. Whatever you do, don't cheap out on this module. And also get some good silicone heat sink grease to put on the bottom of it (metal plate side down) when you install it. Sometimes it comes with the module in a very small blister bulb, but most of the time it won't. Without it you may cook that joker.
It looks something like this.
Latest part number is 19179581 and Amazon has them:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001S2ZQBM/?tag=gbody-20
Standard Motor Products equivalent number is LX315 if you need it. Try to avoid the made in China versions if possible. Honestly, I don't know where they make them anymore. I recommend the GM ACDelco brand made in USA for stock ignition/emission stuff when you can get it. You can usually find the old "good stuff" on ebay, and sometimes dirt cheap. Although a lot of their modules were made in Singapore. I'd still trust them over some of that oddball brand stuff.
The grease? If the module doesn't come with that little pack of heat sink grease, then you can get just about any silicone based dielectric heat sink compound (Make sure to get HEAT SINK rated grease. Not just any old grease). I got a tube of this stuff here, and it cost me around 4 to 5 bucks IIRC. It'll last a LONG time.
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