Help with 97 LT 1 swap on 86 Elco

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oldsmobile joe

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Nov 12, 2015
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lt1's have an aluminum intake and the distributor is under the water pump. and come in cast iron or aluminum heads.
the vortec has a plastic intake and a distributor in the normal spot. only came with cast iron heads.

lt1's can be a handful to install due to the p/s pump is located on the passenger side and the reservoir is mounted to the fender. as well as the a/c compressor is located on the passenger side but down low, frame modification may be necessary.
then there is the 'ol distributor, when it works right, your golden. but when it does't, the water pump and crank pulley need to be removed to service it. PITA.
joe
 

Ribbedroof

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Jan 4, 2009
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Corvette LT1s have a better accessory layout, but are tougher to source due to the "Corvette tax"
 
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oldsmobile joe

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Nov 12, 2015
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Corvette LT1s have a better accessory layout, but are tougher to source due to the "Corvette tax"
you are correct and i am unfamiliar with that style of a/c compressor and from what i've heard, programming the ecm to run the a/c can be tricky.
joe
 

DRIVEN

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Apr 25, 2009
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ECU shouldn't need programming for AC. The AC circuit could be left as factory made it. It's a standalone system that is integrated to the car, not the engine.
Without getting too deep into the which is "better" (LS vs LT1) I can tell you that an LT1 is still a SBC so it's a pretty easy swap. I've done a few in '30s-'60s cars and was pretty satisfied. None of that really matters though because the OP probably actually has a Vortec. Until he checks back in we're just speculating.
 

1979Calais

G-Body Guru
Oct 25, 2011
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Why? LT1 seems like a simpler swap....OE oil pan fits almost every chassis, stock 1st gen SBC mounts, and the electronics are no harder than an LS.

I'm sure there is more support for the LS these days, but for a mild build LT1 works fine. As an aside, I never see low mile LS dropouts for cheap in this market.....and most have 200K+ miles of truck use (abuse?). LT1s are getting harder to find, but still lots of lower mile roadmasters out there, and wrecked ones are cheap, since NOBODY fixes them.

Not saying I wouldn't go LS in the future, by the time I get there, every possible combination will have been tried :doh:

Well its not that hard, but I did change some things that made it a pain. I found out that my car was the problem and not the LT1 a day or 2 ago. Its an easy install. Bleeding the radiator is a messy job.
 

Ribbedroof

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How well does the Bowers setup work? I looked at that, but saw there didn't appear to be very much belt wrap on the crank pulley.
 

ElJoemino

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Aug 8, 2017
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Wow lots of posts..The truck is at my mechanics shop right now and when he gets time, he will move in the shop so we can get the motor and all out.. The engine is a vortec 350 for sure. I want the fuel injection system. That's why I bought everything.. It is in a chevy C1500. The block number on front is 880 or something like that. The vin # has the "R" in it..
I have already made up my mind to go with the fuel injection because i don't care for carbs anymore and plus they are outdated. I want to turn the key and it starts and gets good fuel mileage.. This is an everyday driver so I want it the way I want it. My Mechanic (David) thinks the head is cracked because it overheated. We are going to have them checked along with block. We are going to rebuild it so I need to find out what I need to do to up the HP. David knows how to do that but not with the computer stuff. He is old school and a mustang man..I also need to know what needs to be done on the programming side,like what do I tell the guy when he reprograms the computer. I also need to know what to pull off the truck.. Harness stuff and where is it all located? Will I need to pull the dash to get to it all or what? Thanks
 

ElJoemino

Not-quite-so-new-guy
Aug 8, 2017
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I forgot that I took photos.lol
Engine3.jpg
Engine4.jpg
Engine5.jpg
Engine6.jpg
engine1.jpg
Engine2.jpg
 
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